Yeah, I know. Yet ANOTHER cold start thread. I've done hours of reading on here and I'm just trying to narrow down exactly what could be causing this, so please bear with me.

I've been having cold start issues for months now. Even when it wasn't cold. After reading volumes here, I have done the following things.

Replaced the GPR with a Stancor.
Installed the GPR LED in the dash.
Replaced all glow plugs (twice now, read about the Autolites a week too late).
Replaced the PS valve cover gasket and UVCH.
ICP sensor replaced.

#3 is still hitting 6.7 on PERDELS until warm. Once warmed up, all the PERDELS look great, no issues.

The only way I can get it to start right now is by plugging in. Usually needs to come up to an ECT of 60*+ and EOT of ~80*+.

So, is one bad injector enough to cause a hard start issue? I have two remans from RiffRaff/Casserly sitting in a box right now. But, I don't want to put them in until I am sure they are the problem.

Do I need to be looking elsewhere? Time available is, well, non-existent. My wife is scheduled to deliver tomorrow morning, so I don't think spending hours in the driveway wrenching will go over well with a newborn in the house. I do however have the next month off from work, so there is some wiggle room. The only real hard timeline I am on is the cores have to be back to Casserly by 30DEC11 or they start taking pieces out of the core charge.

I have AE so any tests you guys can think of that I need to start running would be helpful.

 

How's the batteries and battery connections?

If the glow plug system is good, the starter is good, and the batteries are good it should start.

The other big suspect on no cold start is bad compression. I'd suggest checking that before you spend a bunch of money on injectors.

 

Batteries and connections are great. I had the batteries load tested and they came out with no issues. The connection have been cleaned several times now. Twice during the glow plug installs and once during a starter install. They didn't need it. I just did it.

I did the blowby check by placing the oil filler cap over the spout and had no issues with it coming off. I suppose I could take it in to have it professionally checked.

And the injectors are already paid for. It's just a matter now of either needing them and using them or not needing them and returning them.

 

I am having the same exact problem. I have tested my FICM, glow plug harness and load tested the batteries. I have not found a solution either. I was looking to see if you could help me get to where you are. What is the GPR? Also, a UVCH? In addition, I thought I read somewhere that I can try starting the truck with the ICP disconnected.... what will this tell me? Thanks.

 

just for fun, what is your ICP? you should have a minimum of 500PSI to start. it could be a weak IPR causing your issues. test it cold(not plugged in) then hot(after its been plugged in) shouldn't affect it but sometimes these things don't play by the rules we've been given.

Barney

 

I have not tested the ICP at all since I do not have a gauge to test it with. If I unplug it and start the truck cold, is it possible the truck would start fine if the ICP is bad?

 

Caiati, you're sig shows you have an 06 with a 6.0. You might be better served by posting your questions in the 6 liter forum. although there are several brothers on here that have both 7.3 and 6.0.
Its been a while since I had to work on a 6 liter. but if I recall the ICP is a bear to get to. back by the turbo.
you may also want to start your own thread to get more attention


Happy New Year

Barney

 

My F350 won't start in summer 80oF when I had bad injectors.

Replaced 6 injectors in different months. Now it will start fine. 5w40 synth was HUGE IMPROVE in this winter.


Can you do ohm on injectors?