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One bad GP.

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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 10:12 PM
  #1  
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One bad GP.

I have one bad glow plug the GPR is good and working no issue. Batteries test out perfect. When temp is less than 30 let the glow plugs run for 2 minutes then start cranking. Truck cranks good and fast but just won't fire fully. Acts like it wants to start and actually seems to run while the starter is turning. Let off the key and just doesn't continue to run. Can crank it several time and it will start most of the time.
So can 1 bad glow plug give me this hard of a starting issue? I'm i looking in the wrong place? White smoke when it is cranking so should be getting fuel. Was running 15w40 conventional oil but put in 5w40 synthetic today see if this helps.

Any advice would be great. I have read several of the no start cold start threads and think I have checked all the usual suspects.
BTW. 2001 f-250 4x4 160,000 miles
Thanks
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by kt19
I have one bad glow plug the GPR is good and working no issue. Batteries test out perfect. When temp is less than 30 let the glow plugs run for 2 minutes then start cranking. Truck cranks good and fast but just won't fire fully. Acts like it wants to start and actually seems to run while the starter is turning. Let off the key and just doesn't continue to run. Can crank it several time and it will start most of the time.
So can 1 bad glow plug give me this hard of a starting issue? I'm i looking in the wrong place? White smoke when it is cranking so should be getting fuel. Was running 15w40 conventional oil but put in 5w40 synthetic today see if this helps.

Any advice would be great. I have read several of the no start cold start threads and think I have checked all the usual suspects.
BTW. 2001 f-250 4x4 160,000 miles
Thanks
I don't think just 1 bad glow plug will stop one of these trucks from firing. Lots of reading, but good info if you read my cold start thread from last year. It's in my signature.
 
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Old Jan 1, 2014 | 11:06 PM
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Did you check the voltage drop across the GPR posts? Just because it engages, doesn't mean you are receiving full power to the glow plugs. One GP out shouldn't make enough difference to keep it from starting. I usually let my GPR energize for about 20-30 seconds before cranking. If you are not cycling the key a second time after the 2 minute cycle, your glow plugs are probably timing out before starting.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:20 AM
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11+ volts across the GPR consistent with what I'm reading at the batteries. I have put the stancor relay in and have a dash led tied to the load side of the relay so I'm cranking while it is still engaged. My 6.0 liter work truck would start hard when it would lose an injector or two. I guess I might have a bad injector but when the truck is running I don't notice a miss or anything like I did on the 6.0 liter. Possible I just have a couple weak injectors?

I will read through the other thread again and check everything again
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 07:35 AM
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I had a check engine light showing a bad #3 glow plug.
Truck always started in the same amount of crank time regardless of temp but would smoke for half a minute after starting below 30*
Replaced plug and no more smoke or CE light so you may have more going on than the one plug.
I'm still running 15-40 dino too, no mods as far as I know.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by HKusp
I don't think just 1 bad glow plug will stop one of these trucks from firing. Lots of reading, but good info if you read my cold start thread from last year. It's in my signature.
Read it Cover to Cover. Lots of good info. Thank you. and looks like I'm going down the road of injectors. Has an appointment at the shop next week see what comes of it.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 12:32 PM
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11 + volts you mentioned, if thats battery voltage you may need to charge them, a battery thats fully charged and rested over night should be closer to 12.5-12.9 volts,although a battery thats been cranking for a while will recover some voltage after resting for a few minutes.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 12:41 PM
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11+ with the glow plugs active. 12.7 on batteries with the Key off no draw.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 12:59 PM
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sounds good.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 04:23 PM
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I'd change all the glow plugs before I would do injectors. Unless you just want to do them. I had one bad GP and it started at 17 degree's F know problem. You mitt have two or more that are bad. I'm not sure what it should be across the GPR when on but eleven volts dose sound good.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 04:28 PM
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I would check all the usual suspects first. UVCH, ohm out the glow plugs, check the solenoid, etc. before putting injectors in. I would hate to see you spend the money on new injectors only to find out it was something under $200. That being said, I am sure you got all of that from reading that thread so, proceed from there. Good luck and let us know what you find out.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 05:15 PM
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I agree with the suggestions to double check everything before looking at the injectors. The white smoke you are seeing is from unburned fuel, and injectors that have cold temperature problems usually won't discharge fuel until warmed up. I would try an injector buzz test with the engine cold and then repeat after the engine warms up. If you hear injectors that only work when the engine is warm, they might be the cause of your hard starts. Otherwise I would look very closely at the glow plugs and UVC wiring.
 
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Old Jan 2, 2014 | 09:49 PM
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What is the best method without removing the valve cover to test the uvch? If there is one

Thanks for everyone's input!
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 06:41 AM
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You can't test the glow plugs and the UVC harness individually without removing the valve cover. Measure the resistance from the four large pins on each 9-pin connector to ground. If you see an open circuit there is a problem with either the glow plug or the wiring, but you will have to pull the valve cover to verify which.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2014 | 07:35 AM
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Thank you. I figured that was how it was wishful thinking for the magic test.
 
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