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Input Needed: Inverter/Amp install

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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 02:17 AM
  #31  
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So - do you see any issue with this layout?



I dug around the garage and found a Monster Cable 3 in 4 out fuse block and a Rockford Fosgate 3 in 2 out fuse block and another single fuse block.

So...since I may have up to three amps and still need to run better power to the rear (RigRunner) than the power port back there can provide, I should use the 4 out block. I'm wondering if there will be any problem using it between the inverter binding post and the Kinetic.

I don't think it will be an issue (electricity can flow either direction on that cable since during a heavy draw it will pull from the Kinetic, then when off or not pulling a heavy draw it should flow backwards to recharge the battery) - but I've never done anything like this setup before (my Expedition wiring scheme was much simpler).

Thoughts?
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 12:21 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by robert_l_ross
I'm wondering if there will be any problem using it between the inverter binding post and the Kinetic.
Totally kosher. It's all about finding the most efficient layout given how things are positioned physically now. I'm kinda wondering if you even need the kinetik, but since it's already there...

While you're pulling cables, maybe do a +/- 8g from d-block to underseat in case you end up putting a 4ch amp there.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by boulderguy
While you're pulling cables, maybe do a +/- 8g from d-block to underseat in case you end up putting a 4ch amp there.
...already ahead of you...thought the same thing.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 04:22 PM
  #34  
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While running my wiring, I decided to test my sub amp...wired in in all pretty and it started off sounding great, then kicks out. I think it's on it's last leg...all that wiring work and phhhht, dying amp.

I "un-bridged" it and it's doing OK...guess I'm on the market for a new sub amp.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 05:13 PM
  #35  
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That usually means it's got too tall a load when bridged. What amp, what speaker, what ohm load?
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 10:10 PM
  #36  
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PG Ryval 2 channel 800 watt (pretty sure it's 800 watt...it's a pretty old amp, lol). 2 PG 10's, I believe they can run 1ohm...again, they are about 8 years old now or so.

The amp RIPS when bridged, then powers down.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2011 | 10:44 PM
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If it's a V8001 (mono) then it's only good to 2 ohm, it'll shut down or cook at 1 ohm. Didn't see anything about 800w 2ch.

http://www.phoenixgold.com/images/pd...amplifiers.pdf
 
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 12:00 AM
  #38  
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Went out and took a look. V1502 amp, Xenon x10d2 subs.
 
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Old Dec 23, 2011 | 11:55 AM
  #39  
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Amps -
Total Peak Power Output 1000 watts
Total RMS Power Output 500 watts
Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms
RMS Power @ 4 ohms 150 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power @ 2 ohms 225 watts x 2 channels
RMS Power @ 1 ohm not stable
Bridged RMS Power 500 watts x 1 channel (min. 4 ohm)

Subs -
RMS Power Range : 450 Watts
Peak Power Handling: 800 Watts
Impedance: 2 Ohm
Number of Voice Coils: Dual

So if wiring both these subs to a single amp the voice coils aren't optimized. In series-parallel you'll have a single 2 ohm load (load too tall) or as only series you'll have two 4 ohm loads (150w per driver or 75 per voice coil).

If you use only 1 voice coil per speaker & link them in a series you'll have a single 4 ohm load to use with the bridged amp output, this maximizes your power (250w per sub) but a DVC sub is designed to use both VC's for accurate sound so this only a testing option. So for now I'd do this.

In picture below the two speakers on the right represent the 2nd set of VC's on each sub. Don't use those at all.


 
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #40  
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So much good info/pics in this thread, reps sent...
 
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Old Dec 24, 2011 | 02:54 PM
  #41  
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Thanks, I agree. RLR is remarkably thorough in his approach to this project.
 
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