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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 03:33 AM
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Porting current box

I originally made this box thinking I would be getting another cvr12" sub but turns out I cant afford it right now. So I was thinking I would port it to get some more bass. How would I port it? Just buy a round port drill a hole in the box and stick it in? If so where would be best to put the port and what size port should I get?

Here is the box I made. It is my 1st box ive ever made so I know its not good.
its 50" long 15" tall 8.5" bottom depth and 6" top depth.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 05:16 AM
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The only reason I dont want to get another 12 and the 750.1 amp is because I was told I would have to add another battery bigger alternator and a cap. Is that true? If I can keep all my electrical system the same I will get the new amp and another 12.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 10:09 AM
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your not adding that much strain to your electrical system. i have a 4000 watt amp and i dont need a new alt, new battery, or a cap. and im runnning it to 4 subs in my standard cab truck! the lights dont dim unless you practically crank it up to the max
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 03:46 PM
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As long as your power wire running to the amps is big enough, you should be ok.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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Thanks. Should I go with 4 gauge or 2? The amp will be putting out right under 1000rms.

Also does this sound like a good setup? Or should I look into something else?
Am I going to see a big difference adding another 12?
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 86F150302
Thanks. Should I go with 4 gauge or 2? The amp will be putting out right under 1000rms.

Also does this sound like a good setup? Or should I look into something else?
Am I going to see a big difference adding another 12?
Go with as big as you can get.

I would do 1/0 then you won't have to worry weather it's enough or not for a long time.


You could see quite an increase in loudness, if the subs are correct in their box.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy
your not adding that much strain to your electrical system. i have a 4000 watt amp and i dont need a new alt, new battery, or a cap. and im runnning it to 4 subs in my standard cab truck! the lights dont dim unless you practically crank it up to the max

Not to be an ***, but you aren't running a 4000 Watt amp. I state this just because your running under the false pretense that your electrical system is keeping up with a 4000 Watt amp.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2008 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 86F150302
Here is the box I made. It is my 1st box ive ever made so I know its not good.its 50" long 15" tall 8.5" bottom depth and 6" top
Is this internal or external measurements, and what thickness material did you use. Which CVR 12" do you have DVC 2 or 4 Ohm? I can see if my Boxpro has that sub in my database and I can run through some port lengths.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 12:56 PM
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From: Jacksonville FL
Originally Posted by Don S.
Is this internal or external measurements, and what thickness material did you use. Which CVR 12" do you have DVC 2 or 4 Ohm? I can see if my Boxpro has that sub in my database and I can run through some port lengths.
Those are external measurements the CVR12 is DVC 4 ohm.


Thanks!
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 86F150302
Those are external measurements the CVR12 is DVC 4 ohm.
Thanks!
I also forgot to ask material thinkness?
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 05:37 PM
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the 4000 watt amp is not running at a full 4000 watts, its a two channel amp of course its not.. i was just stating that i have a 4000 watt amp in my truck that i use without the lights dimming when its cranked up. i surely wouldnt say "hey im running a 200 rms amp x2 @ 2 ohms. no, i say 4000 watt because thats what the damn thing is at max power before going into self destruct mode.
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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What Don S. is saying is that there very few amps now a days that actually put out their rated power.

Many times people will say I have an amp that puts out this, when in fact its more of a box of rocks then a power producer.

I call most amps max rating the "ALS" rating, or As lightning Strikes

You can do a general power measurement bt taking a DMM and setting it to AC,measure the peak number. times it by it's self then devide it by the ohm load.

AC X AC / ohm load

It's not perfect as the ohm load will change as the drivers move, however it will give you an idea of what your amp is producing
 
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Old Apr 6, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 78'fordtruckguy
the 4000 watt amp is not running at a full 4000 watts, its a two channel amp of course its not.. i was just stating that i have a 4000 watt amp in my truck that i use without the lights dimming when its cranked up. i surely wouldnt say "hey im running a 200 rms amp x2 @ 2 ohms. no, i say 4000 watt because thats what the damn thing is at max power before going into self destruct mode.

Please realize that that rating will never be attained. I run a 1000 RMS watt setup, yellow top battery, and a 90A alternator. My lights dim slightly. If you believe the amp can attain 4000W then, then I ask how you can make 4000Watts with only a single 30A fuse for amp protection. Even at a 200% rating draw on the amp. 60A x 14.4 Equals 864 watts of input power. And seeing that it is a class A/B amp it's efficency could be any where from 35% to 55% efficent at the most. That would mean that the amp would require 7300 Watts of input power to produce 4000W.

The fact remains MAx watts, andpeak watts means absolutly nothing other than sales to audio manufactures. RMS wattage is the actual wattage you need to consider. Trust me on this one here as a past SPL competitor, and car audio hobbiest for the last 17 years.

78'fordtruckguy i am not saying that your amp won't work, and it will make sound, and honestly properly installed it will get loud, just I am pointing out that telling someone you have a 4000 watt amp and your electrical system is just fine is just not right.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Don S.
I also forgot to ask material thinkness?
Whoops sorry. Its 3/4 inch MDF
 
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Don S.
Please realize that that rating will never be attained. I run a 1000 RMS watt setup, yellow top battery, and a 90A alternator. My lights dim slightly. If you believe the amp can attain 4000W then, then I ask how you can make 4000Watts with only a single 30A fuse for amp protection. Even at a 200% rating draw on the amp. 60A x 14.4 Equals 864 watts of input power. And seeing that it is a class A/B amp it's efficency could be any where from 35% to 55% efficent at the most. That would mean that the amp would require 7300 Watts of input power to produce 4000W.

The fact remains MAx watts, andpeak watts means absolutly nothing other than sales to audio manufactures. RMS wattage is the actual wattage you need to consider. Trust me on this one here as a past SPL competitor, and car audio hobbiest for the last 17 years.

78'fordtruckguy i am not saying that your amp won't work, and it will make sound, and honestly properly installed it will get loud, just I am pointing out that telling someone you have a 4000 watt amp and your electrical system is just fine is just not right.
I must correct what I had quoted from the wrong specs,and the amp he has has 2 x 35A Fuses. Still at 200% of currecnt capacity , Which most fuse will blow in a second or less, that is still 140A x 14.4 witch equates to 2016, which at the most extreme running for that amp and being most generous. So with 2016 Watts of imput power Times the efficency (Say 55% again being generous) that amp may only be capable of 1,109 Watts For 1 Second or less. More than likely less.
 
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