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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #76  
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UPDATE: Removed driveshaft today (was 27* outside perhaps not other places in Md but I live on the water and that wind coming off the bay... BRRRRRR!!!! ) and I must be nuts! Anyway, took the driveshaft to a place that specializes in them that will balance it. Amazingly enough the guy commented about how incredibly awful my new u-joints already look I told him that I got them at Advance Auto and he said "Yep, they are junk". He also commented on the new carrier bearing and felt some resistance when turning the driveshaft and said "Yep we'll have to fix this too".

Long story short, they are putting all new u-joints (Spicer) in it along with new carrier bearing and also balancing this driveshaft.

I'll still have to look more into the pinion angle on the rear end as it doesn't look quite right but that's another day.

Should have the driveshaft back in the next couple of days.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:20 PM
  #77  
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While you have it out, lock the hubs, put it in 4 high, and take a spin around the block, see if there's any vibration, That way you know the rear wheel bearings are ok


Watch turning the wheels hard, and hitting the gas too much, she'll hop.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:33 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by dustybumpers
While you have it out, lock the hubs, put it in 4 high, and take a spin around the block, see if there's any vibration, That way you know the rear wheel bearings are ok


Watch turning the wheels hard, and hitting the gas too much, she'll hop.
Will do. One important detail that I accidentally left out when trying to do some troubleshooting isolation is that when driving I threw the truck into neutral and that seemed to help with the vibration as well. Now I am not sure if that's just my mind playing tricks on me or I want so badly for the vibration(s) to go away LOL. But if that's the case, that, in my mind indicative that there's something else going on (i.e. TC shudder, trans issue, tune issue, etc)

I had to get my son from daycare and will do what you mentioned (locking the hubs and take it around the block), therefore, probably won't be able to do that for a few nights (single parenting!).

For good measure I think I'm going to also take the truck back to get all the wheels/tires balanced again to make sure they are spot on. I've had them balanced when I bought them new (just a few short months ago), however, never hurts to check again.

...... the fun continues but at least I'm making progress or at least feel like I am. < smile! >.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:49 PM
  #79  
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Torque converter shudder usually only occurs at low, stopping, starting speeds with a warm trans. Kind of like running in a rumble strip, and may not happen every time.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:52 PM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by dustybumpers
Torque converter shudder usually only occurs at low, stopping, starting speeds with a warm trans. Kind of like running in a rumble strip, and may not happen every time.
Gotcha. I was going approx 30-40mph tops and literally just had an idea to try to pop it out of drive and into neutral.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:54 PM
  #81  
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Check and make sure the trans crossmember is tight too, there was a tsb on that some time ago, was mostly a loud clunk on frame flex, but you never know
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:57 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by dustybumpers
Check and make sure the trans crossmember is tight too, there was a tsb on that some time ago, was mostly a loud clunk on frame flex, but you never know
No clunks. LOL. Well I was getting a slight clunk but I attribute that to the spline yoke (or whatever the techie term is) for the driveshaft. I pulled that boot off of it, greased it really good, and put the boot back on. No more clunks.

Most of this stuff I'm dealing with is lack of "PM" (preventive maintenance) from previous owner. A little PM goes a longggggg way so I learned in my Navy days.
 
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Old Jan 3, 2012 | 04:59 PM
  #83  
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Yeah, I know what you mean, people think they run forever, then it's a pos when they don't
 
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Old Jan 6, 2012 | 08:56 PM
  #84  
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Got my driveshaft back with brand new carrier bearing, all new and driveshaft was fully balanced , etc.

Still have vibration.

Seriously considering selling this truck since I don't have the time nor resources to continue pouri g into it.

. Beyond frustrated at this point and regretting this purchase.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:26 AM
  #85  
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You were told in the beginning to remove that high a lift.... prob would have been cheaper than what you've spent already. Sorry to hear of the continuing problem......
 
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Old Jan 7, 2012 | 10:52 AM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by BPofMD
You were told in the beginning to remove that high a lift.... prob would have been cheaper than what you've spent already. Sorry to hear of the continuing problem......
I know the lift needs removed but I don't have any stock parts but that's exactly the route I'm going. Thanks for pointing that out to me again though
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:41 PM
  #87  
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Since the person that was going to help me with the truck can't make it (Due to snow up further north), I've been doing more troubleshooting. Before anyone tells me TAKE OFF YOUR LIFT --- THAT WILL FIX IT.... that's not good enough for me. I need to figure out why I'm suffering through all of this, the symptoms, and then fix it. I've narrowed this issue down to the pinion angle on the REAR axle. It's approx 4* off now and the ONLY vibration I have is upon take-off. So, is there an easy way for me to change the pinion angle on the rear axle? If so, have a link or some reference that you can point me to?

Thanks everyone... brrrrr the cold and snow is coming! LOL.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:53 PM
  #88  
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AAAAAWWW CRAP!!! I was supposed to call you!!! man, I'm sorry.

The answer is yes. they make shims that sit between the leaf spring and block. you will have to unbolt the u bolts, drop the rear down a little, then put the shim, or shims in to roll the pinion angle up. I used to get mine from Fallsway, but they closed. I think Peter's spring is still in business, they're over by the John Hopkins hospital. The drive shaft people you went to could help point you in the right direction. even Ford may have something if you get a good parts man. I also have a good parts guy in Catonsville that might be able to help.

You want 3*. No more, no less.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by dustybumpers
AAAAAWWW CRAP!!! I was supposed to call you!!! man, I'm sorry.

The answer is yes. they make shims that sit between the leaf spring and block. you will have to unbolt the u bolts, drop the rear down a little, then put the shim, or shims in to roll the pinion angle up. I used to get mine from Fallsway, but they closed. I think Peter's spring is still in business, they're over by the John Hopkins hospital. The drive shaft people you went to could help point you in the right direction. even Ford may have something if you get a good parts man. I also have a good parts guy in Catonsville that might be able to help.

You want 3*. No more, no less.
No problemo! People get busy, life happens.... it's all good and honestly, I'm not stressing over this. While the lift is on here though, I my as well continue to troubleshoot and try to fix. If I get it fixed entirely, perhaps I'll leave the lift on there. I have this feeling that I'll only be towing a few times a month tops and this beast should be able to tow 8k or less no problem even with 8.5" of lift

Is this the type of shims that you're referring to?
 
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Old Jan 20, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #90  
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Yup. are you sure it's 4* you need. Go get a cheap kid's protractor and check it. You may only need 2*.Tthe angle changes quickly as you start turning the pinion.
 
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