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Dizzy swap DS2 conversion

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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 03:34 PM
  #31  
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I'm on lunch break right now, and walking back to work after i finish this post.

When i get off tonight, i'll throw on my monkey suit and setup some lighting.

I'll check the battery first and see if it drops when i try to start.
I'll check for spark from the coil second.


I don't have a test light, so i'll pick one up at work and give it a shot when i get home tonight. I still don't understand what to do with the test light though, i'll read through that thread when i get home
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 03:49 PM
  #32  
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A $10 push button remote starter switch helps greatly when working by yourself. Connect between pos batt post and "S" term of starter solenoid.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #33  
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Sorry that was a bad link for the test light info, try this...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11202192

Here is another good explanation...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11084916


Every time the test light flashes the coil is being told to send a high volt jolt to the plugs.

Sorry about that link, I will have to practice my cut and pasting skills.

Jim
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #34  
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Picking up a remote starter tomorrow, i knew of those tools but never thought about one.

No worrys Jim, ok so when i got home tonight the weather is just unbeatable, its really windy/rainy and cold. But i did manage to do the testlight test.

With the key in run position the testlight lights up when grounded (to engine) and connected to + side of the coil, also stays light while engine is cranking over.

Bad news, when i switch over to the - negative side of the coil the testlight does not blink while cranking the engine over. What does this mean?

I also checked to verify that the rotor cap is rotating.

JIm thanks for the thread links, knowing what i know now i'm much more geared towards believing my problem is a defective part. The ENTIRE system is "new" except the dizzy, which is remaned. I bought all of the parts from a local store, autozone. I'm no master mechanic, but i do electrical work in airplanes, i'm pretty sure i wired this sucker up right. What do you guys think?
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 07:46 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by CamaroAdam73
With the key in run position the testlight lights up when grounded (to engine) and connected to + side of the coil, also stays light while engine is cranking over.

Bad news, when i switch over to the - negative side of the coil the testlight does not blink while cranking the engine over. What does this mean?

I also checked to verify that the rotor cap is rotating.
RE: the bad news part... does the light stay ON steady, just as bright as on the + side of the coil?
Or does the light not come on at all on the NEG side of the coil?
Jim
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 07:57 PM
  #36  
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If the light stays ON steady on both sides of the coil it means the DS2 module is not grounding the coil to fire off the plugs.

The Guy in this link had a similar problem, it ended up being a bad ground.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tion-swap.html
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 08:58 PM
  #37  
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The light doesn't come on at all when the testlight is on the NEG( - ) side of the coil, nothing.
 
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Old Dec 27, 2011 | 09:23 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by CamaroAdam73
The light doesn't come on at all when the testlight is on the NEG( - ) side of the coil, nothing.
This means you have a HARD ground on the Negative side of the coil.

So start by disconnecting/removing the wire on the negative side of the coil. Now the light should be ON when you check both sides of the coil. Reconnect the coil wire and then move down stream and disconnect the green wire on the 4 wire plug of the DS2 module.<O</O
Keep disconnecting stuff until the light come ON.<O</O
Something down stream of the coil is tied to ground that shouldn’t be.
<O</O
Jim
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 01:30 AM
  #39  
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Really stupid idea but you said you bought the DSII module for a late '70s truck? If so try grounding the outer shell of the module. I seem to recall my '79 not running until I mounted it to the inner fender. Worth a shot...
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 01:51 PM
  #40  
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Yeah the light comes on when the NEG wire to the coil is dissconnected.

The light comes on when i disconnect the green wire from the DS2 module. I expected that because the green wire to the DS2 module IS the NEG wire too the coil.
There's nothing after that to dissconnect? I'm sorry you kind've lost me here


And i tried setting the DS2 module on the fender well, nothing.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:09 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by CamaroAdam73
Yeah the light comes on when the NEG wire to the coil is dissconnected.

The light comes on when i disconnect the green wire from the DS2 module. I expected that because the green wire to the DS2 module IS the NEG wire too the coil.
There's nothing after that to dissconnect? I'm sorry you kind've lost me here


And i tried setting the DS2 module on the fender well, nothing.
Actually it is good news that you didn’t find anything. I jumped on the extra ground issue because you have a mix of old and new wiring.<O</O
<O</O
At this point we have to assume the DS2 IGN module is what is providing the ground, which is not a bad thing. You can confirm this by removing the power to the DS2 module. When you pull the power to the red wire the light will come on with the test light on the coil NEG. <O</O
So then the DS2 module is being power correctly and has a good ground for both the coil and the DS2 module.<O</O
<O</O
That only leaves 2 wires left… the signal wires from the distributor, orange and purple, these wires give the DS2 module the signal to make the test light flash and also then fire off the plugs. The signal from the Dist is a very small and thus needs very good connections… so check these as that is all that is left.<O</O
Jim <O</O
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 02:12 PM
  #42  
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Does the coil get warm when you leave the key ON?
This will also confirm current flow through the coil.
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:15 PM
  #43  
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Hah, the orange or purple wire was loose. Double checked them, and it fired right up.

Thanks so much for the info jim and others, BIG help.

Next question and i feel stupid for asking, where is the timing tab? I've only ever timed GM engines so i'm unfamiliar with fords
 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:27 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by CamaroAdam73
Hah, the orange or purple wire was loose. Double checked them, and it fired right up.

Thanks so much for the info jim and others, BIG help.

Next question and i feel stupid for asking, where is the timing tab? I've only ever timed GM engines so i'm unfamiliar with fords
look near the lower RAD hose.
Glad you got it running.

 
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Old Dec 28, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #45  
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Awesome. I'm going to set the timing to 10 degrees for now.

Two more small issues to tackle, one being the white wire that helps with cold starting

And the other, which wire would i hook my tach up to now?
 
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