Ditto. The gofastforless swap is a fix for a problem that doesn't exist, unless you want to cobble up your wiring. It's way better and easier to swap in the DSII parts from the start.

 

I can fix you up with the wiring harness for the price of shipping. Send me a pm if you're interested.

 

This may help you.

 

Alright today i picked up a DS2 module from an auto parts store, 25$ and it came with a lifetime warranty. Also got a coil + wiring harness (+ and - wires), i sourced all of thees parts for a 79' F150 with a 4.9L.

The only things i need are the DS2 harness, and a new dizzy cap/rotor.

Any advice on where i should mount the ignition control module?

 

The module bolts to the left inner fender-there are three holes in the spot where it attaches.

 

Put some spacers underneath it to help with air flow. They don't like heat.

 

Alright i ran into a snag. I've got everything mounted up and my wiring harness made/mounted the duraspark module. Went to fire it up and nothing, it just cranks over.


I'm following the wiring diagram that gfw1985 posted. When i turn the key to the on position i get full 12v at the coil, and 12V at the RED and WHITE wires leading to the 2 prong wiring harness on the ignition module.

I know the dizzy is wired correctly to the module, and so is the coils ground ( - wire). What I'm unsure of is the coils power(+) wire, as well as the wiring from the ignition switch to the ignition control module.

I used the original coils power wire (which is brown) to supply power to the coil. For the ignition control module i used two wires from the 6 prong connector that original connected to the dizzy mounted control module. I used the red 14gauge wire for power, and the black for what i assumed was ground (white wire leading to control module)

What did i do wrong here?

 

Alright heres an update. still no progress. The weather is ****ing ****ty outside and I'm still walking to work because of this, blah.

The truck just turns over, doesn't start. The battery died so i won't be able to try again untill tomorrow/ tonight. It didn't seem like it was getting spark, i blasted it with starting fluid and choked the engine because it's cold, got nothing out of her, not even a spudder.

Here are some pictures of what I've got going on.




What i did here is temporary for testing only, i didn't want to hack up the original harness yet.

I've got the power (red wire) to the control module wired off of the 3rd wire in on that harness, which is red and a larger gauge than the other. Which also supplied 12V when key is on/ start (assuming running as well)

And the white wire (which retards timing in cold weather to help start?) to the black wire, at the end of that connector, at first. But then switched it to the BLUE wire at the opposite end of that connector.



Here is how i temporary wired the coil, i used the original coils wiring harness. the BROWN wire is what i assumed was the POWER wire, and it supplied 12v to the coil when the key is on. I did not reuse the original harness green wire because the coil gets the - side wired too the duraspark module.


If anybody can help me with this i would really appreciate it! The weather is getting bad up here and if i don't fix this truck soon i'm done with it.

As soon as i can afford it, i'll either buy a factory wiring harness or buy the end connectors (you can get them from autozone believe it or not).

Forgot to mention, i'm not using the original coil, i bought a round older style coil that will work with the new dizzy/ module. I also have the dizzys vacc advance hooked up to what i believe is a ported vac source (doesn't supply vacc at idle). But I'm not 100% on this yet.

 

Here is a good read, kind of long, most of the info you need is toward the end.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-module.html

This is the make your own harness approach.

Dont worry about the white wire (start retard) for now, it will run with out it.

How is the Coil Negitive wire getting to the new DS2 module?
Jim

 

Can't check your wiring as I don't have a diagram for your truck. Power to module is red in run, white in start. Make sure you have batt voltage to + side of coil in "start" position. Coil neg should be green from ign module. With everything wired correctly, it should fire, if you dropped distributor in correctly. Good luck.

 

Jim, the coils negative wire is wired to the green wire from the ignition module, i wired it the same way i did everything else 14/16g wite and crimped female ends. I'm reading that write up now about making your own.


I'm pretty sure i dropped the dizzy in right, but i didn't bring her to TDC like i should have/ I took the "lazy" approach and brang the rotor cap around to where the old number 1 wire sat, then used two rulers and marked on the block exactly where the rotor would have pointed too, then dropped the new dizzy and lined it up. Normally when you drop a dizzy a tooth off it will at least still do something.

 

Try the "flashing test light" check.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-module.html

This test will see if it is all hooked up correct
Jim

 

Check to see if you are actually getting fire to spark plugs. If they are getting a good spark, then timing has to be off. Hate to mention this, but you do know the six counts clockwise for firing order instead of counter clockwise, right? I'd rather mention it and take the chance of offending you. At least on the 200/250, I don't have a 300.

 

Nope didn't know that, you won't offend me so don't worry. at the very least i appreciate you telling me, all the information i have the better off i am. I did the firing order based off of what it was on the old dizzys cap. 1-5-3-6-2-4

If this helps any, the volt at coil/ module are both 12V with key in ON position, when i turn the key and crank the engine they both drop to 9V.


Right now i can't tell if im getting spark at the plugs or not, i have nobody to help me and its pooring down freezing rain. I'm so close to the end of my rope i could hang myself.

Jim, I don't mean to sound like an idiot, but what page would that test be described on in that thread? there's allot of pages hah.

 

Does the battery drop to 9 volts also?

If the test light flashes the the timing is off.
You can also just hold the coil wire close to a ground and test for spark.
Jim