Newbie needs help> Ignition; no fire
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Newbie needs help> Ignition; no fire
Hi all,
Newbie here looking for help. 1980 F350 351 2wd mason dump. Picked up over summer, ran OK. Did tune up- oil change, plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Ran even better obviously.
Then about a week after all that i decided on new coil. popped that in and now it wont fire.
Yes wires are on correctly. it gets fuel also. coil connector looked a little shakey so i cut that out and just crimpped on connectors for now.
So odd
Newbie here looking for help. 1980 F350 351 2wd mason dump. Picked up over summer, ran OK. Did tune up- oil change, plugs, wires, cap, rotor. Ran even better obviously.
Then about a week after all that i decided on new coil. popped that in and now it wont fire.
Yes wires are on correctly. it gets fuel also. coil connector looked a little shakey so i cut that out and just crimpped on connectors for now.So odd
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From: Virginia
Take a testlight, clip the wire to a good ground on the engine block, and touch the probe to the + side of the coil. With the key in run, you should have voltage on the + side of the coil.
If you do, then move the probe over to the negative terminal of the coil. While holding it there, get someone to crank the engine. The testlight should blink. If it doesn't make sure the rotor is turning(the guts of the dist) when the engine is cranked. Also make sure the plugs to the ignition module are not corroded. A new ignition module would be the next thing to try. If that's not it, keep it, you need to carry a spare behind the seat anyway.
If you do, then move the probe over to the negative terminal of the coil. While holding it there, get someone to crank the engine. The testlight should blink. If it doesn't make sure the rotor is turning(the guts of the dist) when the engine is cranked. Also make sure the plugs to the ignition module are not corroded. A new ignition module would be the next thing to try. If that's not it, keep it, you need to carry a spare behind the seat anyway.
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tests blinking good.. pulled ICM yesterday and it tested bad..even checked against 2 good (new) ones. will install in a few hours. FYI fools at autozone didnt know what thermal compound was; tried selling me Di grease. weird how new ICM didnt come with but i got some from shop buddy of mine
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Ok put in new ICM went to start and didnt fire up. But while cranking it sounded be
Tter. So no i just tested the pickup and its reading 555 ohm which i belive is low-ish
Tter. So no i just tested the pickup and its reading 555 ohm which i belive is low-ish
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From: Virginia
If the negative of the coil is blinking, then all the modules and and pickup inside the dist are working. That's all they do, is turn the coil on and off, and that's what makes the spark.
So if they negative of the coil is blinking while cranking, take the center high voltage wire out of the center of the dist, leave it hooked to the coil, and hold it near the engine block while someone cranks the engine. If you have no spark, you have a bad coil.
So if they negative of the coil is blinking while cranking, take the center high voltage wire out of the center of the dist, leave it hooked to the coil, and hold it near the engine block while someone cranks the engine. If you have no spark, you have a bad coil.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
No.
There is a much higher probability the problem is caused by something done to it during the first change after which the engine would no longer start (" popped that ([different coil] in and now it wont fire").
There is a much higher probability the problem is caused by something done to it during the first change after which the engine would no longer start (" popped that ([different coil] in and now it wont fire").
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From: Virginia
Start over. You have spark. Make sure the rotor is installed under the dist cap. Take the air cleaner off and with the flashlight look down the carb throat while you push the throttle back. You should see fuel squirt in. If not, you have fuel supply problem.
If you have fuel, take some of the sparkplugs out. If they are black and smell like fuel, they are fouled. Get a new set and it may take right off.
If you have fuel, take some of the sparkplugs out. If they are black and smell like fuel, they are fouled. Get a new set and it may take right off.
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Rotor there and it gets fuel. Wont fire with ether. But fouled plugs seem logical
Since ive been cranking alot. Plug are cheap enought ill just pull. Also my firing
Order is the 1372 but is there any way that its the "other" firing
Order? Manifold says the 1372....so ill assume thats the right order
Since ive been cranking alot. Plug are cheap enought ill just pull. Also my firing
Order is the 1372 but is there any way that its the "other" firing
Order? Manifold says the 1372....so ill assume thats the right order
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
A 1980 F350 would have a 351M from the factory.
Ford Engines: 5.0L HO, 351W, 351M, 351C, 400:
Rotation: Counter-clockwise
Firing Order: 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Source: Info on V8 Engine Firing Order
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From: Virginia
Yes, only one firing order, unless you have a 351w with a 302 cam in it(entirely possible). But if the wires were off, you should still get some sputtering and coughing.
I have seen a engine so flooded, that the plugs are killed with fuel and it won't hit a lick. You can sometimes pull the plugs and let them dry out, but there is a 50-50 chance they still won't fire.
I have seen a engine so flooded, that the plugs are killed with fuel and it won't hit a lick. You can sometimes pull the plugs and let them dry out, but there is a 50-50 chance they still won't fire.