Wow 2kW you're going to run out a 20 amp circuit just to plug in your truck?

 

Haha, yeah, I was thinking about it. I know how I get 20A and #12 AWG to the garage so could do it. I also use a timer so it only runs for a few hours but the timer is only rated for 1800W. And I have 900 + 900 on it right now as is.

Maybe the option I have is best (block heater plus cab heater). If I run the heaters a bit longer, use the high idle mod and a 10-min remote start time, maybe it will be decent.

Still wish I had the damn rapid heater though but agree that it's probably not worth $3K and a voided warranty.

 

I don't really know what they used, had the dealer install it and figured they used a standard oil pan heat pad, probable low wattage rating.

How Warm: I don't need to be in the tropics, but when its -40 below F out, like we had last month for 6 days straight, I'd like to be able to get in my rig without having to wear a parka all the way to work. Until I had the grill bra and high idle installed, that's what I wore every morning to work and on the way home.

I have a short drive, 15 miles to work/home and prior to the bra/high idle, it took 10 of those miles just to get comfortable. It was even worse when I'd stop at the store on the way home, about the time it did get warm I'd be at the store and it'd be cold again before I out.

I also think the manual High Idle I had installed is a better solution than the automatic one or the Rapid Heat. Everyone I've talked to says the rapid heat doesn't provide sufficient heat in our weather conditions, they help, but only a little.

I can set the high idle, use my auto start to get the rig going and 15 to 20 minutes later (depending on outside temps) it is a toasty warm cab. And being a manual high idle, I can set it at any time I'm just sitting and idle'n (such as when I'm at the store) and not have the cab temps drop back down.

Temps are suppose to get down to the minus teens next couple of days, I'll let you know if this still works at -15 below F (-26 below C) or so.

 

GREAT info!! High idle will be next on my list. Will do it over the holidays. Do you ever drive with it engaged so idle never drops low when in traffic?

 

If you use the SEIC function to implement high idle it won't engage if you're driving. It will immediately cut out of it when you hit the service brakes or release the parking brake. You have to turn it off and reset it before you can use it again. If you use another method it might not be affected.

 

I don't use it while driving for a few reasons, 1; not sure I want my rig in high idle if I need to slow down on icy roads, 2; you have to "depress" but not engage the emergency brake, and 3; it sounds like a 4 truck fire alarm when you engage drive with the emergency brake depressed even a little Ooops

I say depressed but not engaged on the emergency brake as I have to press down just slightly, until the light comes on and not fully engage the brake. I was concerned with this when the dealer first explained it to me as emergency brakes tend to freeze in place when engaged in the winter. So far it hasn't been a problem as long as I depress it just enough to get the red brake light on and not actually engage the E brake.

 

I got used to the alert because I always set the parking brake (to the floor as far as it goes) in Neutral before shifting to Park so it always goes past Reverse in the process, thus showing and sounding the warning.

Yeah if high idle didn't trip off whenever you are in a drive gear, the vehicle would just be continuously moving forward... especially when it's set at 1600RPM.

 

That's what I figured. I won't try it.

 

Don't you worry about the brake freezing up ? I know I never use the E brake once we start see the temps in the teens or colder.

 

I typically use mine although the other day it did stick on me for a minute. Had to work it a bit to get it freed up. I think on cold days I'll do a slight actuation like you do.