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Any tips for replacing Shift Lock Solenoid?

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Any tips for replacing Shift Lock Solenoid?

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Old 10-28-2011, 08:12 AM
Tampa250
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Any tips for replacing Shift Lock Solenoid?

Occasionally I cannot shift out of Park so I'm fairly certain my shift lock solenoid has gone out on me. Just wondering if anyone here has done one and could give me an idea of what the job will be like- I've got an '04 F-250 6.0 CC. Any tips are appreciated.

BTW, thank god it's Friday!
 
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Old 10-28-2011, 09:00 AM
lenzhotrod
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Sometimes the assembly comes loose at the end of the "shift tube". It has 2 hex or torx screws. If you post on other forums I may be able to send info to you. On this forum I can not add attachments.
 
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:33 AM
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Take a look at the last post on this thread - you may find it useful.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...warmed-up.html

I also remember a guy posting pics recently of the job. He had just replaced his, but I can't find it...
 
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:45 AM
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Trans wont come out park brake pedal swicth changed onto the silinoid
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ixed-pics.html

I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
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Old 10-28-2011, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35 View Post
I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That's it, thanks Benny. Get to work...
 
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:18 AM
Tampa250
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Originally Posted by BLADE35 View Post
Trans wont come out park brake pedal swicth changed onto the silinoid
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ixed-pics.html

I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

That thread is relevant. Thanks!
 
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Old 12-04-2011, 04:54 PM
Tampa250
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Well I installed the new solenoid a week or so ago and at first all was well, but now the shifter is starting to act up intermittently again. Is there anything else I should check? An adjustment or something?
 
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Old 12-04-2011, 05:34 PM
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Usually it isn't the solenoid, the problem usually is the brake light switch on the brake pedal.
 
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Old 12-06-2011, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky View Post
Usually it isn't the solenoid, the problem usually is the brake light switch on the brake pedal.
I've paid attention to this and when the shifter acts up the brake lights still work. Sometimes, I can just hold the brake pedal down and pull and release on the shift lever several times and it will finally shift from Park. Any ideas?
 
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Old 12-06-2011, 06:53 PM
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Nope, no other ideas.
 
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Old 12-07-2011, 09:38 AM
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The Brake Pedal Position switch is a double pole switch. One pole operates the brake lights and feeds the trailer brake controller plug. The other pole feeds the PCM and other modules.

On some model years, the shift interlock is connected to the brake light side. On other model years it's connected to the PCM, etc. side. On the 2004 is happens to be on the PCM, etc. side. So the brake lights working is not proof that the BPP is not causing your problem.

The only way to know for sure would be to test the BPP while it's connected with a meter or test light. There is a wiring diagram below. It should be noted however, that on my BPP, there were numbers stamped into the switch. The numbers on the switch were the opposite of the numbers in the diagram. 1 was 5, 2 was 4, etc.

When my BPP went bad, my cruise control became very difficult to disengage intermittently. Sometimes it would be fine and sometimes I'd really have to stomp on it. Eventually it failed altogether and I just always really had to stomp on it. The brake lights always worked fine.
 
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Old 12-07-2011, 10:50 AM
Tampa250
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Originally Posted by dchamberlain View Post
The Brake Pedal Position switch is a double pole switch. One pole operates the brake lights and feeds the trailer brake controller plug. The other pole feeds the PCM and other modules.

On some model years, the shift interlock is connected to the brake light side. On other model years it's connected to the PCM, etc. side. On the 2004 is happens to be on the PCM, etc. side. So the brake lights working is not proof that the BPP is not causing your problem.

The only way to know for sure would be to test the BPP while it's connected with a meter or test light. There is a wiring diagram below. It should be noted however, that on my BPP, there were numbers stamped into the switch. The numbers on the switch were the opposite of the numbers in the diagram. 1 was 5, 2 was 4, etc.

When my BPP went bad, my cruise control became very difficult to disengage intermittently. Sometimes it would be fine and sometimes I'd really have to stomp on it. Eventually it failed altogether and I just always really had to stomp on it. The brake lights always worked fine.
Great post- thanks for the info! I rep-d you as well...

So, one switch covers all electrical functions of the brake pedal then.... That makes sense. On some cars I've worked on, there are two switches- one for the lights and one for cruise control cancelling. I have noticed at times I need to depress the brake pedal more than once to cancel it. This must be my issue.

Thanks again!
 
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Old 12-07-2011, 12:46 PM
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Most likely the brake light switch. Mine did the same thing and the brake lights still worked. If you can take it out of park with the key turned without starting It's the switch.
 
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