Any tips for replacing Shift Lock Solenoid?
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Any tips for replacing Shift Lock Solenoid?
Occasionally I cannot shift out of Park so I'm fairly certain my shift lock solenoid has gone out on me. Just wondering if anyone here has done one and could give me an idea of what the job will be like- I've got an '04 F-250 6.0 CC. Any tips are appreciated.
BTW, thank god it's Friday!
BTW, thank god it's Friday!
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 516
Likes: 0
From: LA = Lower Alabama
Take a look at the last post on this thread - you may find it useful.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...warmed-up.html
I also remember a guy posting pics recently of the job. He had just replaced his, but I can't find it...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...warmed-up.html
I also remember a guy posting pics recently of the job. He had just replaced his, but I can't find it...
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,060
Likes: 238
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Trans wont come out park brake pedal swicth changed onto the silinoid
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ixed-pics.html
I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ixed-pics.html
I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Trans wont come out park brake pedal swicth changed onto the silinoid
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ixed-pics.html
I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ixed-pics.html
I think this is the one^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That thread is relevant. Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Well I installed the new solenoid a week or so ago and at first all was well, but now the shifter is starting to act up intermittently again. Is there anything else I should check? An adjustment or something?
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Frmr Ford Trans Engr
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 24,722
Likes: 2,648
From: SE Florida
Usually it isn't the solenoid, the problem usually is the brake light switch on the brake pedal.
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Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
I've paid attention to this and when the shifter acts up the brake lights still work. Sometimes, I can just hold the brake pedal down and pull and release on the shift lever several times and it will finally shift from Park. Any ideas?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
The Brake Pedal Position switch is a double pole switch. One pole operates the brake lights and feeds the trailer brake controller plug. The other pole feeds the PCM and other modules.
On some model years, the shift interlock is connected to the brake light side. On other model years it's connected to the PCM, etc. side. On the 2004 is happens to be on the PCM, etc. side. So the brake lights working is not proof that the BPP is not causing your problem.
The only way to know for sure would be to test the BPP while it's connected with a meter or test light. There is a wiring diagram below. It should be noted however, that on my BPP, there were numbers stamped into the switch. The numbers on the switch were the opposite of the numbers in the diagram. 1 was 5, 2 was 4, etc.
When my BPP went bad, my cruise control became very difficult to disengage intermittently. Sometimes it would be fine and sometimes I'd really have to stomp on it. Eventually it failed altogether and I just always really had to stomp on it. The brake lights always worked fine.
On some model years, the shift interlock is connected to the brake light side. On other model years it's connected to the PCM, etc. side. On the 2004 is happens to be on the PCM, etc. side. So the brake lights working is not proof that the BPP is not causing your problem.
The only way to know for sure would be to test the BPP while it's connected with a meter or test light. There is a wiring diagram below. It should be noted however, that on my BPP, there were numbers stamped into the switch. The numbers on the switch were the opposite of the numbers in the diagram. 1 was 5, 2 was 4, etc.
When my BPP went bad, my cruise control became very difficult to disengage intermittently. Sometimes it would be fine and sometimes I'd really have to stomp on it. Eventually it failed altogether and I just always really had to stomp on it. The brake lights always worked fine.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 491
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
The Brake Pedal Position switch is a double pole switch. One pole operates the brake lights and feeds the trailer brake controller plug. The other pole feeds the PCM and other modules.
On some model years, the shift interlock is connected to the brake light side. On other model years it's connected to the PCM, etc. side. On the 2004 is happens to be on the PCM, etc. side. So the brake lights working is not proof that the BPP is not causing your problem.
The only way to know for sure would be to test the BPP while it's connected with a meter or test light. There is a wiring diagram below. It should be noted however, that on my BPP, there were numbers stamped into the switch. The numbers on the switch were the opposite of the numbers in the diagram. 1 was 5, 2 was 4, etc.
When my BPP went bad, my cruise control became very difficult to disengage intermittently. Sometimes it would be fine and sometimes I'd really have to stomp on it. Eventually it failed altogether and I just always really had to stomp on it. The brake lights always worked fine.
On some model years, the shift interlock is connected to the brake light side. On other model years it's connected to the PCM, etc. side. On the 2004 is happens to be on the PCM, etc. side. So the brake lights working is not proof that the BPP is not causing your problem.
The only way to know for sure would be to test the BPP while it's connected with a meter or test light. There is a wiring diagram below. It should be noted however, that on my BPP, there were numbers stamped into the switch. The numbers on the switch were the opposite of the numbers in the diagram. 1 was 5, 2 was 4, etc.
When my BPP went bad, my cruise control became very difficult to disengage intermittently. Sometimes it would be fine and sometimes I'd really have to stomp on it. Eventually it failed altogether and I just always really had to stomp on it. The brake lights always worked fine.
So, one switch covers all electrical functions of the brake pedal then.... That makes sense. On some cars I've worked on, there are two switches- one for the lights and one for cruise control cancelling. I have noticed at times I need to depress the brake pedal more than once to cancel it. This must be my issue.
Thanks again!
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