Oil Pump priming?!
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Oil Pump priming?!
Hello Fellers,
So I have a question on priming the oil pump, Does anyone knows any methods to prime the oil pump when it's already in the vehicle (engine all assembled) without taking the oil pan out?!
We bougth a block (stripped) no accessories, just block/heads, and we put it all together, now it won't prime the pump ( kid never told us he had the pump removed and installed dry, and I never checked) :-/ go figure,
Any help is greatly appreciated!
So I have a question on priming the oil pump, Does anyone knows any methods to prime the oil pump when it's already in the vehicle (engine all assembled) without taking the oil pan out?!
We bougth a block (stripped) no accessories, just block/heads, and we put it all together, now it won't prime the pump ( kid never told us he had the pump removed and installed dry, and I never checked) :-/ go figure,
Any help is greatly appreciated!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
You are sure there was an oil pump installed........was the oil pump gear in place. I think pan removal is in your future to see if the pickup is sealed to the pump. Cracks are known to cause air leaks.
This is what the PSD people did when the pickups were cracked in their engines.
First they added 2 extra quarts of oil........ then jacked the rear axle up far enough maybe a couple feet, to ensure the oil pickup was completely covered. They then started the vehicle or at least cranked it over long enough to pump oil to all the parts.
You could do the above and remove the oil pressure sender, watching for oil to be pumped to the hole (it is at the end of the oil travel).
If oil comes out the sender hole after the above...... consider there is a oil pickup/pump problem.
If you really want to pre lube the engine..... do it through the sender hole with a pressurized tank of oil.
One other point did you inspect the filter header for the oil pressure bypass valve and oil pressure regulating valve were both present. Did you pre fill the filter?
This is what the PSD people did when the pickups were cracked in their engines.
First they added 2 extra quarts of oil........ then jacked the rear axle up far enough maybe a couple feet, to ensure the oil pickup was completely covered. They then started the vehicle or at least cranked it over long enough to pump oil to all the parts.
You could do the above and remove the oil pressure sender, watching for oil to be pumped to the hole (it is at the end of the oil travel).
If oil comes out the sender hole after the above...... consider there is a oil pickup/pump problem.
If you really want to pre lube the engine..... do it through the sender hole with a pressurized tank of oil.
One other point did you inspect the filter header for the oil pressure bypass valve and oil pressure regulating valve were both present. Did you pre fill the filter?
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Hey thanks for the reply,
Yeah he said he replaced it with a new one (oil pump), I did fill the filter with oil before cranking, and I replaced the gaskets in the oil cooler and both mentioned valves were in place.
The gear and pump were there and installed propperly, I do get some oil sqirting out of one of the rockers through the hole from the push rod, but again it's just one of them, and not enough oil.
I will dafinately try your suggestion tomorrow.
Thanks man!
Yeah he said he replaced it with a new one (oil pump), I did fill the filter with oil before cranking, and I replaced the gaskets in the oil cooler and both mentioned valves were in place.
The gear and pump were there and installed propperly, I do get some oil sqirting out of one of the rockers through the hole from the push rod, but again it's just one of them, and not enough oil.
I will dafinately try your suggestion tomorrow.
Thanks man!
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Trenton, MI
It pop to me when PLC7.3 post about oil sender.
Why don't you remove oil sender and pour oil in there so it would able to prime oil pump.
2 qt oil in there and jack up rear end up then pour oil in oil sender then install oil sender on so I am sure it will work. Or put oil pressure gauge on it.
Why don't you remove oil sender and pour oil in there so it would able to prime oil pump.
2 qt oil in there and jack up rear end up then pour oil in oil sender then install oil sender on so I am sure it will work. Or put oil pressure gauge on it.
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Des Moines
I just installed a newly rebuilt 6.9 in mine. What I did to ensure a 'wet' start, instead of 'dry' cranking, was to remove the oil sender unit, put a 1/8 brass fitting, adapted it up to a 1/4 brass, then to a hose. Taped a medium-sized funnel into the hose, and hung it on the open hood. Poured 10w40 oil into the funnel, and let gravity feed down thru the sender hole. Then went back to installing. Every couple minutes would take a break and would add oil to the funnel. Added all the engine oil this way. I am at least sure all the oil passages, oil cooler, main and rod bearing all had lube before I even cranked it. I haven't got it running yet, since I am waiting for the FI pump to be rebuilt, but, when it does get cranked, the oil pressure should rise right up instead of any waiting. Only part that might not get a good lube is the camshaft and hydraulic cam followers, but it shouldn't take long to get there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
Did you by chance see if the piston cooling jets were installed........
FYI oil flow is 12 gallons per minute @3300 rpm, now at idle it will be only 10 lbs.... but it only takes 7lbs to shut off the oil light.
Remember if your cranking the engine by starter, to NOT burn the starter out max 30 seconds cranking with 2 minute cool down. If the GPs were removed the engine would spin over faster......
FYI oil flow is 12 gallons per minute @3300 rpm, now at idle it will be only 10 lbs.... but it only takes 7lbs to shut off the oil light.
Remember if your cranking the engine by starter, to NOT burn the starter out max 30 seconds cranking with 2 minute cool down. If the GPs were removed the engine would spin over faster......
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Hey guys,
so i tried the oil sender idea and i seems to have worked quite well, my only concern is that it builds pressure really slow, takes like a minute and a half to get up to 10psi,
Is that normal for you guys?!
Thanks again, FTE rules man!
so i tried the oil sender idea and i seems to have worked quite well, my only concern is that it builds pressure really slow, takes like a minute and a half to get up to 10psi,
Is that normal for you guys?!
Thanks again, FTE rules man!
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From: Des Moines
My mechanical gauge is almost instantaneous. My in-dash factory gauge follows slowly. I have no experience with electric gauges. 10 psi is awful low except for idling. What weight oil and what is your outside temperature? (Colder weather = thicker oil)
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
Likes: 1
From: Manitoba
If your just cranking with a starter @ 200rpm +/- I'm going to say that might be all you get..........if you have the 10psi at the oil sender I would think a start attempt would be next......
Did you soak the lifters in light oil before installation?
Did you soak the lifters in light oil before installation?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 26,007
Likes: 575
From: Brentwood,CA
Have you actually started it? to get oil pressure at idle is very hard to do and a mute point. Start it up and see what you have! The pump is positive displacement and requires no priming.
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