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IDK why don't ya all just look at the amp gauge, mine just drops like like a rock when the gp's are on, and climbs back up when they turn off. The alternator brings it up too after it starts. If you like lights though, defiantly do the light. just asking
Dude.
dont you know switches, lights and gauges are where its at? :P
Ok just to make sure I was getting to the LED I used a jumper wire at the fuse near the GPR and went rite to the hot terminal of the battery and I had the LED. Put the fuse back in and still nothing. If I test from the positive of the battery to the terminal on the GPR that is shown in the pic I get the light on my tester meaning this is actually a ground. So could my GRP be grounding out but still alowing my truck to start and run? Or is that impossible?
The only reason I asked is because I have been having a issue with the truck not wanting to fire when the temperature outside is on the cooler side. I was told it could be the GPR. Thats the only reason I asking.
This is basically a bump.
Did you get your led to work? I am far from a electrical tech, but your problem may be you are using the wrong polarity on the led
Ok just to make sure I was getting to the LED I used a jumper wire at the fuse near the GPR and went rite to the hot terminal of the battery and I had the LED. Put the fuse back in and still nothing. If I test from the positive of the battery to the terminal on the GPR that is shown in the pic I get the light on my tester meaning this is actually a ground.So could my GRP be grounding out but still alowing my truck to start and run? Or is that impossible?
It is very close to ground when using a light tester. The resistance of glow plugs are very low ~ 1.5 ohms. Sounds like the GPR is not working ...
Use your light tester when the truck is cold. Turn the key to run and the GPR should click. Then put probe on light tester to big lug on GPR in question. The light should come on and remain on until the relay clicks off.
It is very close to ground when using a light tester. The resistance of glow plugs are very low ~ 1.5 ohms. Sounds like the GPR is not working ...
Use your light tester when the truck is cold. Turn the key to run and the GPR should click. Then put probe on light tester to big lug on GPR in question. The light should come on and remain on until the relay clicks off.
The GRP makes no noise. and I get no glow from the light tester on the Big lug. I do get power on the main that is allways supose to be hot. But should the truck still start if the GRP is not working correctly? It fires rite up as long as its not below say 50 degrees. Could the GRP be getting just enough power to heat the glow plugs wehn its warm enough out? Sorry to sound like a noob but I am still learning about diesels. I guess I can break down and buy a ohm tester if I have to. It may be a wise investment the light probe testers are not that great for this type of testing im assumming
Ok I am in the middle of doing this little easy mod. but I can't seem to get the led to work. I have a good ground near the steering wheel. good connections on the power side. But I dont have any power at that post even when the truck is in the power on postion powering the glow plugs. I noticed that the GPR is diffrent. I have a 97 does that make a diffrence The picture is from a 91? any help would be great. also does the LED need tobe grounded somewere other than to the chassis.
Do you have a Cali model?
Originally Posted by richdawg
IDK why don't ya all just look at the amp gauge, mine just drops like like a rock when the gp's are on, and climbs back up when they turn off. The alternator brings it up too after it starts. If you like lights though, defiantly do the light. just asking
The GRP makes no noise. and I get no glow from the light tester on the Big lug. I do get power on the main that is allways supose to be hot.
A test light will work just fine for this type of problem. If your not getting the test light to light then your not getting any power to the glow plugs.
Hook your test light to the negative terminal on the battery and with the key on touch it to either SMALL terminal. those are the control wires to the GPR. If it lights on the SMALL terminals the GPR is bad internally. If there is no light on the SMALL terminals you have a wiring issue between the PCM and the GPR.
I suspect a problem elsewhere then the GPR, they make a pretty good click when they pull in.
A test light will work just fine for this type of problem. If your not getting the test light to light then your not getting any power to the glow plugs.
Hook your test light to the negative terminal on the battery and with the key on touch it to either SMALL terminal. those are the control wires to the GPR. If it lights on the SMALL terminals the GPR is bad internally. If there is no light on the SMALL terminals you have a wiring issue between the PCM and the GPR.
I suspect a problem elsewhere then the GPR, they make a pretty good click when they pull in.
Diesel Rod
X2 that my glow plug relay went bad last winter tested it the same way
The GRP makes no noise. and I get no glow from the light tester on the Big lug. I do get power on the main that is allways supose to be hot. But should the truck still start if the GRP is not working correctly? It fires rite up as long as its not below say 50 degrees. Could the GRP be getting just enough power to heat the glow plugs wehn its warm enough out? Sorry to sound like a noob but I am still learning about diesels. I guess I can break down and buy a ohm tester if I have to. It may be a wise investment the light probe testers are not that great for this type of testing im assumming
I had problems with mine when I first bought it. I got a schematic and if I remember correctly the pcm controls it with a ground to the glow plug solenoid. the small terminal that the pcm wire goes to can be grounded with a jumper to test.
If I'm wrong someone jump in and correct me.
I can tell too when mine are on by the volt meter, but I like the led idea. I'm going to add one to my truck.