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Here's the scoop. Sometimes when I turn the key to start the thing, all I hear is a click, and then the power goes completely dead (no power for lights or anything). So, I figured out that if I adjust the negative battery terminal slightly, then the power comes back into the cab and I can then start the engine normally. Lately, however, it's been getting worse. In other words, there's more instances of the "attempt to start but get one loud click followed by no power in the cab) situation.
I used my multimeter to check for continuity/resistence from the negative terminal to ground at the frame. Seems to be good. Could it be a selenoid issue at the firewall? Not sure which item to check/test next.
My gut feeling is that it's in the negative battery cable to engine frame, but I really don't know.
Need some advice here.
One other thing, and this might be related. Lately I've been having instances while driving the truck where the battery "idiot" light comes on (and then eventually goes off again). the voltmeter in the instrument cluster shows the proper charge. BTW, this has happened with two alternators (both good ones). I have a new drive belt on too. Have any of you seen this before?
Its the terminals and/or the cables. Very common on these trucks. I went thru a relay and an optima battery before finally looking on here and replacing the cables and terminals.
To make lesser mechanics take it to the stealership. But Not I says the cat in the hat. Its a pain but by far isn't the lamest design Ford had on these trucks. How about that transmission pan drain plug Ford....
To make lesser mechanics take it to the stealership. But Not I says the cat in the hat. Its a pain but by far isn't the lamest design Ford had on these trucks. How about that transmission pan drain plug Ford....
I've only had this truck since May, and overall I like it. BUT, I have already found several "engineering stupidity" items on it that I didn't experience on my last rig.