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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Battery charged no power

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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 07:08 AM
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Battery charged no power

Hi guys!


So My truck would not start in the middle of my driveway. Had 4 guys with me working on my house. Had to go get 18' trim boards! I was just driving it 5 minutes prior. No interior lights, nothing. Tried jumping it, interior lights coming on and it clicks not but still not enough juice to turn the motor. Disconnect jumper cables and it's dead again. Nothing. Got my meter and the battery is fully charged. I am guessing start with changing battery cables. They are old.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 07:17 AM
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Make sure you put your meter on the battery and check the reading only with the KEYSWITCH SPRUNG OVER TO START.

If you want to check the cables, put the black lead on the engine block, and put the red lead on the starter relay large terminal. Then take your reading WITH THE KEYSWITCH SPRUNG OVER TO START.

Move the negative lead back to the battery and move the red lead around to figure out where you are losing the voltage. But you will never be able to determine where you are losing the voltage unless you take your readings with a load on the circuit. Use the keyswitch in the start position to put a load on the circuit.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:40 AM
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with the key on there is no voltage and the red wire either on the battery post clamp or the solenoid. The ground wire from the battery down to the engine block is back. Just a few wires hold onto The block. I can't even see where it attaches. I can barely even get a hand down there nevermind find the bolt. Can I just cut this thing and mount somewhere else. I want to change both battery cables.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:42 AM
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sorry I can' frigging type. Meant to say the ground wire from the battery down to the engine block is in bad shape. Need to replace.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 11:42 AM
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The battery negative cable bolts to the lower front corner of the block with a little 'flag' that grounds to the frame along the way.
(Unless you have an I-6 engine, they ground to the starter bolt)

It would be best to use the proper Motorcraft cable ($$$), or go directly to the block and add a smaller ground cable from that bolt to the crossmember.
Do as Dave said and load the battery by engaging the starter solenoid when you test the battery once the cables are replaced.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 12:07 PM
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found it. lol took it off. Good luck finding this thing. 2 for one special. It acts as a battery cable and a grounding strap. Holy moly. Jerry rigging up something. Need to move this truck.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 12:09 PM
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sorry missed your post. Yup you are correct. thank you!
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 12:18 PM
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The parts stores have universal battery cables you can buy. But they won't have that grounding strap for the frame. You could peel back some insulation and put a clamp like the factory did, but to me that's just another place for moisture and corrosion. Probably a couple of 10 gauge wires bolted from the block over to the frame would do it after you replaced the big cable from the battery neg to the block.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2015 | 09:10 PM
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did the two cables. One down to the block and a short one onto the frame. Truck is running. Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 08:07 AM
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Hi All!


posted this last June. I changed the ground wires and truck was fine. Also hadn't had back up lights for a while. Replaced the neutral safety switch and all was good. A few months later truck would not start. Key turns on the power for the windows and radio etc...but when you turn the key to start the engine nothing happends. I took a wire and jumped the solenoid terminals and it starts fine. Changed the solenoid but still can't start the truck from the ignition. And my back up lights don't work again. Thinking bad ground somewhere? No back up lights again and no key ignition. Pain in the butt.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 08:27 AM
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Sounds like you have a problem with the neutral safety switch. The back up lights and the start wire both go through this switch, so that is a common area for both problems. Look for damaged wiring down there. If you had exhaust work done, look for melted wires.
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:12 PM
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thanks...I had replace the neutral safety switch less than a year ago. Perhaps it's faulty again? I will get under there and see if any wires are damaged. Haven't had any work done at all since then.
 
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