Why AIH Delete
Got Data?
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 4,241
Likes: 1,371
From: Lake Stevens, WA
I would like to get that AIH relay out of there, to reduce clutter and make it easier to spot leaks in the valley. Looks like the resistor mod is needed to avoid codes? Sounds like Shake-N-Bake did not have luck with that.
Snowseeker, you said you pulled everything out and have not noticed codes? Maybe just soft codes are set then. That'll just be annoying on AE then.
Snowseeker, you said you pulled everything out and have not noticed codes? Maybe just soft codes are set then. That'll just be annoying on AE then.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
To clarify: you get a soft code if you simply remove the AIH and the wiring running FROM the relay. If you pull the relay, you should get a CEL light constantly, just like when you delete the EBPV pedestal and valve.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
I pulled everything BUT left the relay in and hooked up to the truck side of the wiring. That may be the reason (I like to think so) that I don't get any codes. I removed the heater, its ground wire, and its power wire to the relay.
Latest engine pic I have, see relay still there but no wiring to heater.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
This thread motivated me to get rid of the soft code my computer has had for the last year. I know you guys are picture junkies, so here they are:
First get a pack of these resistors. They are half watt, so the heat dissipation ability is not too high. Good for this circuit, though. I put two together, but You COULD go with just one of them. Two together gives me 1 watt and half the ohms, so I'm down to 235 Ohms/1 watt.
Then, solder two of them to a couple pieces of three inch long 16-18 gauge wire. You could use 14 gauge as well.
A shot of the parts needed to complete the AIH delete mod.
Then get a heat gun and apply the heat shrink. Crimp the connectors on the end.
The finished jumper containing the "computer fooling" resistors.
And the installed jumper on the truck.
Started my truck, pulled the P0541 code and reset it. Then started it again and the code did not come back. All is now good with my truck. No more soft codes left from the mods I have done!
First get a pack of these resistors. They are half watt, so the heat dissipation ability is not too high. Good for this circuit, though. I put two together, but You COULD go with just one of them. Two together gives me 1 watt and half the ohms, so I'm down to 235 Ohms/1 watt.
Then, solder two of them to a couple pieces of three inch long 16-18 gauge wire. You could use 14 gauge as well.
A shot of the parts needed to complete the AIH delete mod.
Then get a heat gun and apply the heat shrink. Crimp the connectors on the end.
The finished jumper containing the "computer fooling" resistors.
And the installed jumper on the truck.
Started my truck, pulled the P0541 code and reset it. Then started it again and the code did not come back. All is now good with my truck. No more soft codes left from the mods I have done!
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Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
Well Al, I got to wanting to experiment a little.
I decided to try this after seeing some much older posts where others had put two in parallel and had it work. I have seen where others put two pair of resistors in series, but that makes it more complicated for most folks. They also made much longer wires that were grounded in other places far away from the relay, and I thought I would try to simplify it a bit. I have always wondered where that 470 ohm number came from...and now I know it is not as important as the ability to dissipate the heat IF the computer sends voltage to the heater it now thinks is still there. It worked...no more code. Now, if the computer sends voltage across that line for some reason, the resistors are right there in the open. If they burn up, they can't do much damage in the spot I have them.
I decided to try this after seeing some much older posts where others had put two in parallel and had it work. I have seen where others put two pair of resistors in series, but that makes it more complicated for most folks. They also made much longer wires that were grounded in other places far away from the relay, and I thought I would try to simplify it a bit. I have always wondered where that 470 ohm number came from...and now I know it is not as important as the ability to dissipate the heat IF the computer sends voltage to the heater it now thinks is still there. It worked...no more code. Now, if the computer sends voltage across that line for some reason, the resistors are right there in the open. If they burn up, they can't do much damage in the spot I have them.
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 3
From: Pea Ridge, AR
Complicated? I guess...it's all relative. You could have shortened up the leads then attached another pair and probably been overall shorter, but it will likely work, as it has for many others. You are right it's to dissipate the heat and create enough load. 470 Ohm is the pretty standard load to be sensed so I'm sure that's where it comes from.
I'm sure you'll be fine, I was just curious. Good clean install too!
I'm sure you'll be fine, I was just curious. Good clean install too!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Does a soft code show up when smogging?
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
Well Al, I got to wanting to experiment a little.
I decided to try this after seeing some much older posts where others had put two in parallel and had it work. I have seen where others put two pair of resistors in series, but that makes it more complicated for most folks. They also made much longer wires that were grounded in other places far away from the relay, and I thought I would try to simplify it a bit. I have always wondered where that 470 ohm number came from...and now I know it is not as important as the ability to dissipate the heat IF the computer sends voltage to the heater it now thinks is still there. It worked...no more code. Now, if the computer sends voltage across that line for some reason, the resistors are right there in the open. If they burn up, they can't do much damage in the spot I have them.
I decided to try this after seeing some much older posts where others had put two in parallel and had it work. I have seen where others put two pair of resistors in series, but that makes it more complicated for most folks. They also made much longer wires that were grounded in other places far away from the relay, and I thought I would try to simplify it a bit. I have always wondered where that 470 ohm number came from...and now I know it is not as important as the ability to dissipate the heat IF the computer sends voltage to the heater it now thinks is still there. It worked...no more code. Now, if the computer sends voltage across that line for some reason, the resistors are right there in the open. If they burn up, they can't do much damage in the spot I have them.
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
LOL. Still no codes. It works great for tricking the computer.
The true test of the mod is if I ever go up north and the computer tries to activate the heater. Then we will see if the resistors hold up to the current/voltage running on that wire. If they cannot dissipate the heat, they will burn up and I'll have to go with higher wattage resistors. Where I live in Texas, that will never happen. So....
The true test of the mod is if I ever go up north and the computer tries to activate the heater. Then we will see if the resistors hold up to the current/voltage running on that wire. If they cannot dissipate the heat, they will burn up and I'll have to go with higher wattage resistors. Where I live in Texas, that will never happen. So....
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