I have that same code eliminator wire and installed it as described and it doesn't work. I still get the code.
To be honest, I still can't figure out how that code eliminator wire would help when placed like the instructions say. Seems to me that the wire should have a big resistor inline and connect the large terminal on the AIH relay to the wire from the engine harness. However, I've never tried it for fear of frying my PCM.

Looking at the OEM set up...there are two wires connected to the heater. One wire comes straight from the AIH relay (heavy gauge wire). On the same stud, but separated by an insulator, there is another wire that runs to the engine harness on the driver's side. What happens with that wire? I presume that is the wire that runs to the PCM and wants to see resistance through the heating element so shouldn't that wire be fed a resisted power signal to eliminate the code?

 

Sorry Timmyboy, I just figured out what OP means. To many acronyms around here.

I'm from just south of Atlanta GA.

Does this mean I'm banned

 

I've been wondering about this- does the code only show up in AE? I've got a scangauge and it doesn't show any codes but I know it won't display all codes.

 

Yeah, only when running the self diagnostic tests. It's not really an issue. It's just that my wife laughs at me because AE says her truck has a clean bill of health while mine has the nagging 0541

 

I've been thinking about buying AE, this is either another reason to buy it or a reason not to buy it...

 

AE is just another tool. Very useful as long as you understand how to read the data. It won't ever say a part needs to be replaced....it just will report how it's behaving and you have to figure out why yourself. Sometimes you can use other sensors and regulator values to figure it out but sometimes you need some other tool as well (such as a fuel pressure gauge..)

If you plan on keeping your truck for the long term...AE is a very sensible tool to purchase and learn how to use.

 

Being too thorough is a bad thing?

 

I hear y'all, it was just a joke. I've got the comparable tool for another one of our diesels and it has paid for itself many times over.

 

Isn't the aih activated by a relay? Why can't we just fool the PCM at the relay box & eliminate the extra complication on the engine! I'm going to work on this idea, I'll post my results!
Jim & fat Monty

 

I bought AE, DTC scan does not show 0541. I do have five other codes but not that code. I wonder what the difference is since we both installed the eliminator the way dfuser said to.

 

That other heavy gauge wire (the black one) does not go the the harness. It is a ground wire that grounds to the engine down below the spider in the dark abyss.

Sorry. I replyed to the wrong post

 

What do you do with the wires going to the AIH after removing them? Tape them off, and put to the side?

 

I removed them all together.

 

I'm sure you could fool the PCM. But, the point of removing the AIH is to remove the big 'ole heater element out of your intake, as it is restricting air flow. It's like saying, "Hey, I've got a 4" exhaust system," but then sticking a 2" steel block running through the middle of the exhaust piping. You want to eliminate the restriction.

In order to "completely delete it," you remove it with a crescent wrench. It will take you 5 minutes, including cleanup. There are directions all over this website with "how to" and pics. Super simple.

 

I had never heard of the AIH delete until I bought my gauges from Clay at RRE a few years ago. JD gave me his old homemade AIH delete plug with fitting for boost pressure gauge and it seemed to make the install much easier than tapping in anywhere else. My only word of caution is that if you remove the AIH, don't remove the bolt that the ground wire runs to on the drivers side valve cover. We did, thinking the bolt hole was a blind hole, but in my case it wasn't and I drove around with a hellacious boost leak for a few months until I realized what I had done.