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FRx kit, which spring should i use??

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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 03:48 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76
it krept to 75/76psi, and thats when the #8 knock/tap sound was intense. At one point, after towing my trailer (8k at the time), rolled into driveway and sounded as if i had someone under the truck with a ball ping hammer, banging away?

Funny you say that, with the gold spring (72-75 psi) in my sec gen FRx my #8 tap tap tap was twice as loud, today on the drive home @ 76'ish psi it sounded normal for the first time. and ran exceptionally well...for the first time.
I'll have to keep my ears open and see what transpires.

I always thought that the FRx would solve the #8 cackle???

On a side note, after a long trip from FL to NJ pulling a very heavy trailer, my bosses 01 had the sound your describing. We both thought something was really wrong. It was an injector knocking very loud...after a while (may have been the next day, I cant remember <----) everything was back to normal.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 05:46 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Franko72
I always thought that the FRx would solve the #8 cackle???
I'm still try'n to differentiate the #8 sound...cackle, keys jiggling, tapping, knocking..etc
 
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Old Oct 3, 2011 | 10:54 PM
  #18  
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How hard is the FRX to install?
I want to install mine ASAP!!
Do I need to remove a lot of parts to get it installed?
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 12:16 AM
  #19  
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it should have came with instructions. If not, no, its not hard, just a bit of time, and some spraying of pb-blaster on the head plugs...click on FRx installation link

Riffraff Diesel Performance Parts: Diesel Performane Parts Installation Downloads | Up-pipe installation | Regulated Return Installation and more - Installation
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 01:17 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by mueckster
I would say post filter port (lower on bowl) is better, since it will be the pressure the fuel rails will be seeing. If filter is new, you won't really see a difference.
Thanks Roland
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 01:28 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by BobbyDiesel71
How hard is the FRX to install?
I want to install mine ASAP!!
Do I need to remove a lot of parts to get it installed?
Bobby, the first time I did mine I must have said every cuss word in the book a million times over. A 5/16 8pt socket (which I didnt know I had till I was finished that my dad had given me) or a spline works great with PB Blaster. I had the hardest part with the regulater and the long screws and making sure the spring is lined up correctly. The second one I installed on my other truck it was a piece of cake. Took me about an hour.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 03:29 AM
  #22  
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Just go slow and easy steady pressure on the fuer rail plugs! Sometimes a tad bit of tighten before you try to loosen (strange as it sounds) will help to break the mechanical Bond that any sealant has made inside the threads, if it starts to kick your butt take a nice long brake, and most importantantly! Have your Dog help!
Jim & fat Monty
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 11:38 AM
  #23  
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Yea it didn't take me very long to install. Mind you I did have the comp housing off the turbo so that made it abit easier. The instructions were good.
 
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Old Oct 4, 2011 | 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BobbyDiesel71
How hard is the FRX to install?
I want to install mine ASAP!!
Do I need to remove a lot of parts to get it installed?
Just installed it on one of my trucks, not terribly difficult, the plug on the front passenger side was more trouble than the drivers side rear. I removed the four bolts from the A/C compressor and set it aside, makes it a good bit easier to get to the front plug. Follow the instructions and you will be fine, be careful when installing the spring as it is relatively easy to get it installed wrong, what I mean by that is it is possible to install it so that it is caught on one of the three "fingers" in the regulator housing and when installed this way causes extremely high fuel pressures as mentioned before, also watch where you route the fuel lines as the stainless braid will eat wiring right quick.

Dan
 
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