Ok, about a month ago my drivers door power window just ceased to work. (Sadly in the lowered position) I pulled the panel off, and examined the switch housing. By removing the terminals from a window that worked, and putting them in the drivers terminal, I determined that the regulator/motor assembly was bad. Fast forward to today, after wrestling with some issues, the NEW regulator/motor are installed. But here's the kicker, NO CHANGE!!! Still wont work!!! The fuse/CB is good, all other windows work. The switch test good when voltmeter applied...so now I'm stumped. I need some help here people.

Edit: Its a 1994 explorer, Eddie Bauer(sp)

 

Welcome to the forum.

You have checked power at switch and report "OK", have you put a meter on the connection for the motor?... Philip

 

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Getting no juice at the motor connection, have no clue what a GEM module is, where it is, or how to check it. Haven't torn the wiring harness open yet. Not happy about having to do it, but I'm thinking I wont have a choice. Is there a relay for this motor somewhere?

 

Before digging in to relays and wiring harnesses, start along the lines of Aquanaut's suggestion. You've confirmed that you do not have power at the motor assembly, but have you tried checking for power (not just continuity) at the switch assembly?

I'm unclear how you confirmed a month ago the regulator assembly was bad.

If you need a wiring diagram for the power windows you can send me a Private Message with the request AND an e-mail address and I'll send you a PDF.

-Rod

 

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Some clarifications: I determined the switch to be good by removing leads from a working window and re-connected to bad switch. In this case, the drivers window switch controlled the passenger window. Hence, the switch was not the problem. In my particular vehicle, they are not individual switches, but a large switch block. I have also tested the switch terminals today and I AM getting voltage through both sides. But a meter is placed to the motor plug connection, I have no power.

I honestly never figured it would be a wiring issue, so I just replaced the motor/regulator.

 

It does sound like that's what you're down to, a wiring issue between the switch and the regulator.

One thing I would suggest you try first though if you have not already is to open your door to the position where the switch shows voltage (and hopefully the same position it was in when you tested the other regulator, probably wide open), connect your driver's door motor back up, and see if it works. Given the number of these vehicles that have experienced broken wires between the cabin and the door, it is possible you have a wire that makes contact when the door is open but goes open circuit when the door is closed. I don't really think there is a wire that could break there and cause only the driver's window to not work, but it's a quick test so worth a shot.

-Rod

 

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On the 1994 model the GEM has no connection to the power windows per the factory service manual wiring diagram. There is a one-touch down module between the master window switch and the driver's window motor/regulator assembly. From the wiring diagram it appears there are no wires between the cabin and the door that would impact only the operation of the driver's window.

-Rod

 

Thanks for all the help and info. I have yet to tear open the harness, but will most likely attempt it this weekend. Knowing the issue is more than likely somewhere in the door makes life a bit simpler. So now, here's my next question on the subject. The wires coming out of the master switch box for the drivers side front are yellow/red stripe & red/yellow stripe. When tested with a meter, they both show active voltage when activated. The two prong plug which leads to the window motor has three lines going into it. One solid red, and the other side has the yellow/red stripe & red/yellow stripe going together into one. I don't remember if I had power there, but I remember solidly that there was zero voltage on the red line. If i splice the red line and jump from a known good power source, do you think that would work? It wouldn't be the first time I did some garage engineering. I only paid $500 for the truck a year ago and it has just over 200k miles on it, so I don't feel like investing a ton of money into it. It is just used to and from work or fire calls.

 

The wiring differences are due to the one touch down module I mentioned above.

We'll start at the power window switch for the driver's window.

At the switch, the Red/yellow wire should have 12V when the switch is in the Down position and 0V (ground) when the switch is in the Up position.

The voltages on the Yellow/red wire should be opposite the Red/yellow (reverse polarity window operation).

The Yellow/red wire connects straight between the switch and the power window motor, but the Red/Yellow wire goes to the one touch down module. Double check the wire colors at the motor as two of the wires should be Yellow/red, and they connect at the same point.

The second Yellow/red wire comes from the one touch down module.

The other wire at the power window motor comes from the one touch down module and should be red. It should function similar to the Red/yellow wire at the switch if the one touch module is functioning properly.

There is a Black wire connected to the one touch module which connects to ground.

Power to the one touch module is provided by the Light Blue/black wire which is the same wire that provides power to the power window switch for all windows. It's fed by a 30A circuit breaker in the Interior Fuse Panel.

-Rod

 

Hey all, first of all, I would like to thanks for all the help I received on this board. Here's the Update, the truck is back together and all components running correctly. Now I would also like to say, publicly, sometimes I'm an idiot. I was not looking forward to tearing apart the wiring harness, and since the weather was nice, with no rain in the forecast, I have been procrastinating pretty badly. Today, while moving some stuff in the garage to get to the mower, I noticed the inside door panel that I had taken out of the truck, low and behold there was this black box bolted to it...hmmm. I pulled it off and tossed it in the front seat after looking up the number, it was without a doubt, the one-touch down module. Woot Woot!!! No tearing apart the harness. While driving into town to pick up a few things, I had an epiphany, Duh, the stupid window wont work with out this plugged in, sitting at a stoplight, i snapped it on, and viola!!! A perfect working window....Again, thanks to all.

 

Ahh, glad you got it working again and the new regulator assembly was not a waste of money!

-Rod