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Why would you say something like that, John? Surely you know that his truck will *not* run "just fine without one" in cold weather. Carburetors come with chokes for a reason, and that reason is to help it run without stalling when the engine is cold. Even if it is 90 degrees outside, an engine is COLD when it is first started for the day, as normal engine operating temperature is close to 200 degrees.
As Bill noted, they haven't been used in over 40 years. Most of the ones that I have seen aren't functional anyways, have huge rust, and the trucks get along just fine.
It is not like a fuel pump that has to be on the truck.
You can argue against this but it won't make much difference in the supply of trucks still out there without it.
As Bill noted, they haven't been used in over 40 years. Most of the ones that I have seen aren't functional anyways, have huge rust, and the trucks get along just fine.
If you go back and re-read what NumberDummy said, MANUAL chokes haven't been used in over 40 years, not automatic chokes. And I don't know why you keep saying "the trucks get along just fine" without a working choke. An engine that has trouble starting or stalls in cold weather is not most people's idea of running "just fine." Besides, if the original 30 year old choke tubes are rusted out, why would you not replace them? Aluminum or copper tubing is cheap enough. I don't understand why anyone would rebuild a 30 year old carburetor, and then ignore the 30 year old choke system?
My 1985 Ford F150 (26 years old) with a Motorcraft 2150A carburetor came with an automatic "hot air" choke on it. The choke stove chamber was located on the passenger's side exhaust manifold, but mine also had a secondary "electric assist" that connected to the back of the alternator. The electric assist part only worked at temperatures above 60 degrees to help the choke come off sooner for emissions purposes.
When a carburetor has a working choke system, especially the thermostatic "hot air" chokes with a Motorcraft/Autolite carburetor, I have found that my own engine runs just as well as any modern vehicle with electronic fuel injection. You just have to remember to push the gas pedal down once before starting the engine for the day.
If you go back and re-read what NumberDummy said, MANUAL chokes haven't been used in over 40 years, not automatic chokes. And I don't know why you keep saying "the trucks get along just fine" without a working choke. An engine that has trouble starting or stalls in cold weather is not most people's idea of running "just fine." Besides, if the original 30 year old choke tubes are rusted out, why would you not replace them? Aluminum or copper tubing is cheap enough. I don't understand why anyone would rebuild a 30 year old carburetor, and then ignore the 30 year old choke system?
My 1985 Ford F150 (26 years old) with a Motorcraft 2150A carburetor came with an automatic "hot air" choke on it. The choke stove chamber was located on the passenger's side exhaust manifold, but mine also had a secondary "electric assist" that connected to the back of the alternator. The electric assist part only worked at temperatures above 60 degrees to help the choke come off sooner for emissions purposes.
When a carburetor has a working choke system, especially the thermostatic "hot air" chokes with a Motorcraft/Autolite carburetor, I have found that my own engine runs just as well as any modern vehicle with electronic fuel injection. You just have to remember to push the gas pedal down once before starting the engine for the day.
Dude, I have been around these trucks since they were new, there aint a hell of a lot you can tell me about manual & electric chokes that I am not aware of. I have seen many rotted heat riser tubes and the trucks ran for years like that.
I personally don't see the value in buying a kit for one.
Dude, I have been around these trucks since they were new, there aint a hell of a lot you can tell me about manual & electric chokes that I am not aware of. I have seen many rotted heat riser tubes and the trucks ran for years like that.
I know you have, John. That is why I am surprised that you, of all people, would say that. Sure, the vehicle should still run, but it will not run very well until the engine has reached full operating temperature.
I am now in my 30s, and I don't remember much about carburetors at all. When I got my own truck, I just assumed that hard starts and stalling were how all carbureted vehicles behaved. I spent my time over in the 1980-1986 forums for a few years and learned from some very good people there on how to properly tune a carburetor and how a choke should operate. I never thought an older carbureted vehicle could run so well. I finally got my own truck dialed in so good that it will start right up with only a single pump of the gas and continue running without stalling when it is freezing outside.
As you know, better than I do, a carbureted vehicle would never do that if the choke wasn't hooked up properly. And that is the value for buying the choke stove kit if your original choke tubes have rusted off.
How a man spends his $$$ is his business...in my experience, chokes aren't necessary below the Mason-Dixon line (climate) if the engine is in good tune, north of that and a choke is a good idea on a carbed engine. When I need a choke, I install a manual and never look back, even if I had to mod things a little. Lasts the life of the vehicle without parts worries, unless you have to replace the **** or cable. To each his own.
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