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Found another problem on my '85 f-150. The choke doesn't open the whole way.. (used 4gallons of gas in 12 miles, ouch!)
Question is, whats the easiest way to see if the choke itself isnt working, measure the voltage at the connection?
also, does the choke need the heat riser to open the whole way up, or does the heat riser just help it to open quicker? cuz someone cut off the riser.! grrr.
Cut off heat riser sure isnt going to help warm up but the choke is electric and should work independently.Check to see if the gasket behind the plastic black choke controler has ben sucked into the carb causing an air leak. I had this problem 20 years ago on one. Only costs a few bucks to fix with a new choke gasket. To get it right I think you will need a new header pipe with a heat riser. The old one must have frozen up solid on it so they beat it open and cut it off.
Clean the old choke housing & linkage with carb cleaner , start itup and watch to see if it opens up all the way. Probably will stumble bad with the heat riser stuck open so you will need one of them anyway. It probably froze up so they beat it to the open position and cut it off. It will work but will be a pain to drive when cold. If the carb also has a heat tube then it will need the heat riser fic=xed too
actually the heat riser on the air clean is always stuck open, I meant the choke heater (ie the 1/4" tube that runs from the choke body to the exhaust manifold.
That works good too if you remember to push it in. After having an auto choke for so long its hard to remember to puxh the lever in. If you use the electric just go to Ford & buy a new heat tube for the car and clean it up wiyh carb cleaner. If the fittings are still there just buy a piece of steel tubig the right size and make one
You didn't say what carb you have, but I had a similar problem on y 84 with motorcraft 2 bbl. Depress the throttle and see if the choke closes. Start the engine and wait for it to warm. When it's warm, turn the black plastic choke toward the front of the engine until it opens fully when you bump the throttle. My factory choke was riveted in, but had ears on the plastic that will accept a 1" wrench. Took about 3 adjustments to find the correct spot as it would fast idle and then kick down to a slow idle, then fast idle again. Hope your problem is this simple!
You can pull out the rivets with pliars and put regular sheet metal screws in the chole housing too. It should have a index mark and the book will tell you where to set it like on index, 1 lean or 1 rich. Like the previous post says you may have to experiment to see what works best for your area and climate.
All these posts are good advice. But I wonder if your heating element may be burnt out in the choke housing? I have not had a Ford yet, that this thing didn't burn out. And they are expensive too. You can put an ohmmeter on it to check it.
I have gotten so fed up with this system, I too went to a manual choke. I had a little interference with the aircleaner, but after that was fixed, it works good.
Also to consider theres a relay under the dash that can fail.i had this happen to my 1985 f-150 inline 6. This relay controls the power to the choke, fords part #e47f-12a646-a1a.Instead of replacing mine i used a 12v dc relay and 2 contact points(of this relay) hooked up to the switch on acc to power this new relay. . When it failed power stayed on the choke all the time and was killing batteries.Funny thing after two die hard batteries the parts man asked me ,what do u think wrong with our batteries----angrily telling him THERE MADE IN MEXICO. Hope this helps TR
I can't remember the value, but if you get no reading at all from the carb body to the electrical tab, then it's burnt open. Getting a choke to work correctly is not an easy task.
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