vacuum diagram needed
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Near St. Joseph,MO
vacuum diagram needed
This is on my 78 Scab, engine is a 460 D1VE block, D3VE heads.
Does anyone have or know of a diagram showing ONLY what is needed at the most basic level? I find tons showing where they all are stock, but I want to get rid of the 10' of tubing on top of the engine. What things need to be hooked up to vac? (dist/carb/brake booster/what else?) I know I don't need all this crap, we don't have emissions testing so I'm not worried there. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Does anyone have or know of a diagram showing ONLY what is needed at the most basic level? I find tons showing where they all are stock, but I want to get rid of the 10' of tubing on top of the engine. What things need to be hooked up to vac? (dist/carb/brake booster/what else?) I know I don't need all this crap, we don't have emissions testing so I'm not worried there. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Northeast LA
Here's the way mine is, very minimal. Since you have power brakes, where mine is looped on the vacuum tree you could just run a line over to the booster and block off the other port. Maybe it'll just give you an idea.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 1,742
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From: Near St. Joseph,MO
This is my truck, will always be my truck and I know based on the other cars I've owned that you do NOT need all the vac lines to make it run fine. I'm ditching the cruise, it will no longer be auto and am upgrading other things like dist/etc. There are an awful lot of hotrods out there with very minimal vac lines, and they do fine.
Thanks for that diagram, that's exactly what I needed.
Thanks for that diagram, that's exactly what I needed.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
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From: Northern and Southern Cal
Didn't these engines show up in the late sixties before smog systems.
So were they really designed to run "that" way?
So were they really designed to run "that" way?
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Correct Oh great Marc aka Turbohunter! The 385 engine series (named for the 3.85 inch stroke) aka the 460 was introduced in 1968 to replace the MEL series engines.. it ran until 1997! So any smog, and excess vaccum lines were purely an afterthought, based on the necessity of the times. Peripherals aside, all that is truly needed is a vacuum line to the Dizzy from the carb for timing advance, and to keep the EPA happy one from the Carb to the PCV , but that is purely an option.. as you can replace it with a breather, and plug off the carbs vacuum line port. Finally, if you want your power brakes to work , then a large line from the Intake Manifold to the Master Cylinder would be wise. All other lines are there to run Smog devices, cruise control, and heating peripherals, all of which can be judiciously removed with a bit of thought! The need for a diagram is really a moot point as long as you know what you really need and Don't need!
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Louisville,Ky.
The 460 I put in my 77 only had 4 vacuum lines. One large one to the brake booster, another large one to the PCV valve (I highly recommend that you run one to keep the crankcase properly vented), a small one to the C6 modulator valve. These are all direct manifold vacuum from either a manifold port or carb port. I run the PCV to the carb and brake booster to the manifold. This way, any oil vapor is distributed evenly in the manifold and not to just one or 2 cylinders.
I also ran a small line from the ported vacuum port ( no idle vacuum, just getting vacuum as the throttle is opened) to the vacuum advance on the dizzy.
The truck ran like a scalded dog. It had an Edebrock Performer intake and 750 carb, Edelbrock double roller timing chain/gears, CompCams 268H cam. lifters an matching valve springs along with a set of headers.
My 63 F100 with a 351W only has a PCV hose and vacuum advance hose. No other vacuum lines.
I also ran a small line from the ported vacuum port ( no idle vacuum, just getting vacuum as the throttle is opened) to the vacuum advance on the dizzy.
The truck ran like a scalded dog. It had an Edebrock Performer intake and 750 carb, Edelbrock double roller timing chain/gears, CompCams 268H cam. lifters an matching valve springs along with a set of headers.
My 63 F100 with a 351W only has a PCV hose and vacuum advance hose. No other vacuum lines.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,656
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From: Northern and Southern Cal
Hey, a helpful Mod, check that out.
I just did the same thing as LxMan and my FE is singin' now. (yes I know an FE isn't a 385)
I just did the same thing as LxMan and my FE is singin' now. (yes I know an FE isn't a 385)
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Near St. Joseph,MO
Thanks LX, that's the kind of stuff that helps.
Here is the mess I'm trying to get rid of:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/KBrian/Truck/0ee4ed1a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
FWIW, my last "project" was a 91 Galant VR4 - Turbo AWD 4cyl. There are "upgrade" diagrams showing how to remove all unnecessary vac lines and how to reroute the existing to clean up the engine bay. The only lines I "needed" were to the FPS, the wastegate, boost controller, pcv valve and brake booster (gauge tied into one of these). So I'm not completely oblivious to what needs to be there, I just like to get advice from those that have already done it. I'm new to Fords, and 460's.
Here is the mess I'm trying to get rid of:
<a href="http://photobucket.com" target="_blank"><img src="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a204/KBrian/Truck/0ee4ed1a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
FWIW, my last "project" was a 91 Galant VR4 - Turbo AWD 4cyl. There are "upgrade" diagrams showing how to remove all unnecessary vac lines and how to reroute the existing to clean up the engine bay. The only lines I "needed" were to the FPS, the wastegate, boost controller, pcv valve and brake booster (gauge tied into one of these). So I'm not completely oblivious to what needs to be there, I just like to get advice from those that have already done it. I'm new to Fords, and 460's.
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Hey, guys,
I want to publicly apologize for my spew of last week towards brian1080, he didn't deserve the foaming at the mouth he got from me and everybody else shouldn't have had to have read that. I cracked and I blew it, was blaming him for future problems I was making up in my head, my attitude was the result of too much real-life stress combined with nicotine withdrawals all happening at the same time and I lost control.
About the vacuum lines you need, the guys are right in that the smog devices & low-compression were quick & dirty mods made by Ford to meet EPA requirements until something more elegant came about.
You may need to re-curve your distributor's advance mechanism if you remove the EGR and experience pinging under load, though.
-chris
I want to publicly apologize for my spew of last week towards brian1080, he didn't deserve the foaming at the mouth he got from me and everybody else shouldn't have had to have read that. I cracked and I blew it, was blaming him for future problems I was making up in my head, my attitude was the result of too much real-life stress combined with nicotine withdrawals all happening at the same time and I lost control.
About the vacuum lines you need, the guys are right in that the smog devices & low-compression were quick & dirty mods made by Ford to meet EPA requirements until something more elegant came about.
You may need to re-curve your distributor's advance mechanism if you remove the EGR and experience pinging under load, though.
-chris
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Rossmoor at Seal Beach
Hey, guys,
I want to publicly apologize for my spew of last week towards brian1080, he didn't deserve the foaming at the mouth he got from me and everybody else shouldn't have had to have read that. I cracked and I blew it, was blaming him for future problems I was making up in my head, my attitude was the result of too much real-life stress combined with nicotine withdrawals all happening at the same time and I lost control.
About the vacuum lines you need, the guys are right in that the smog devices & low-compression were quick & dirty mods made by Ford to meet EPA requirements until something more elegant came about.
You may need to re-curve your distributor's advance mechanism if you remove the EGR and experience pinging under load, though.
-chris
I want to publicly apologize for my spew of last week towards brian1080, he didn't deserve the foaming at the mouth he got from me and everybody else shouldn't have had to have read that. I cracked and I blew it, was blaming him for future problems I was making up in my head, my attitude was the result of too much real-life stress combined with nicotine withdrawals all happening at the same time and I lost control.
About the vacuum lines you need, the guys are right in that the smog devices & low-compression were quick & dirty mods made by Ford to meet EPA requirements until something more elegant came about.
You may need to re-curve your distributor's advance mechanism if you remove the EGR and experience pinging under load, though.
-chris
Actually before going to the trouble of re-curving the Dizzy ... If you have an adjustable Vacuum advance pot on your dizzy , if your engine is pinging under load, you can back off the Vac Advance a 1/4 at a time until you get rid of the ping, by doing that your initial timing will remain the same it will only effect the timing under load, at middle to high RPM.
Put the truck in high gear, and full throttle it to remain in high gear, if it pings, then using an allen wrench pull the Vacuum hose off of the dizzy, I think it takes an 3/32 in. or there abouts Allen , and then turn it 1/4 turn counter clockwise... drive it again if it still pings repeat the process until the ping is gone.. if it take about 2 full turns or more then back off the timing 2 degrees or so , and retry it! If your Dizzy does not have an adjustable Vacuum advance, you can pick one up at most any Auto Parts for around 10 bucks.... This method Keeps your initial timing the same , and only adjusts timing under a load condition.
Timing Tips for Ford Distributors
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