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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Project "No Buck"

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Old Oct 20, 2011 | 04:28 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by 4x484150
Nice truck, it's coming along nicely! But whats up with the off road wagon?
Well someday it will be for my kids but for now it will be a parts wagon at swap meets. A friend and I saw one here a while back and thought it was a cool idea so we thought we'd give it a shot!!
 
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Old Dec 8, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #47  
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Well it has been a while since I last posted, kind of had to hit the brakes a little with the holiday coming up. I have managed to finish welding in my patch panels and seam sealing everything up, as for the seam sealer I used the brushable kind from Eastwood and it is amazing!! Once I finished that I started laying the Quick Roof that I picked up from Home Depot. From what I can tell so far I like the way it is laying out. I'm one roll into this step and looks like I'll need at least 3-4 more rolls for the rest of the floor, back of the cab, doors and the roof. After the floors are complete I'll finally be able to lay my new rubber floor in and button everything up. Hope you enjoy the pictures, however I totally forgot to take pictures of welding in the new patch panels so here is where I stand now.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 06:51 AM
  #48  
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Trent - Looking good! I'll bet your Quick Roof from Home Depot is the same as Peal & Seal from Lowes. A nephew of mine used the latter extensively in his diesel pickup and the result is amazing. He's had several people ride in it and not realize it is a diesel.

After his experience, I used it on a dishwasher in my shop. (Yeah, I'm sure you are asking "why a dishwasher?" It was given to me and I use it for washing parts - does a great job.) You couldn't even think while it was running before, so I laid P&S on every inch of the tub and then stuffed the area between the tub and the outside shell with fiberglass insulation. Now you can hear it run, but it doesn't just take over the shop when running, and I can easily hear the radio.

So, when I do Dad's truck I'm going to do exactly what you are doing.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:35 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Trent - Looking good! I'll bet your Quick Roof from Home Depot is the same as Peal & Seal from Lowes. A nephew of mine used the latter extensively in his diesel pickup and the result is amazing. He's had several people ride in it and not realize it is a diesel.

After his experience, I used it on a dishwasher in my shop. (Yeah, I'm sure you are asking "why a dishwasher?" It was given to me and I use it for washing parts - does a great job.) You couldn't even think while it was running before, so I laid P&S on every inch of the tub and then stuffed the area between the tub and the outside shell with fiberglass insulation. Now you can hear it run, but it doesn't just take over the shop when running, and I can easily hear the radio.

So, when I do Dad's truck I'm going to do exactly what you are doing.
Well I'm glad to hear that the product works like I hope it would. My dad and I are also going to lay this stuff down in his 48 when the time comes.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:50 AM
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You are going to do the firewall and the back wall, right? According to my nephew, those actually made the biggest difference.

Also, have you thought about the inside of the doors - the inside of the outside door skin? I did that on a Miata, using a commercial sound deadener, years ago and it helped a lot as well. If you can get them clean the Quick Roof should adhere very well and water won't get in there to rust the door skin. I used a heat gun to get the stuff warm enough to adhere well, and a wooden wall paper roller to get it to lay down to the contour of the metal.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 07:52 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
You are going to do the firewall and the back wall, right? According to my nephew, those actually made the biggest difference.

Also, have you thought about the inside of the doors - the inside of the outside door skin? I did that on a Miata, using a commercial sound deadener, years ago and it helped a lot as well. If you can get them clean the Quick Roof should adhere very well and water won't get in there to rust the door skin. I used a heat gun to get the stuff warm enough to adhere well, and a wooden wall paper roller to get it to lay down to the contour of the metal.
Yes I plan on doing the back wall, the firewall actually has some new insulation on it from the previous owner so I'll see how that goes I can always go back and add to that. And as for the doors I do plan on doing them for sure.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2011 | 08:17 AM
  #52  
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Insulation and damping should be used in conjunction with each other. The damping, which is what Quick Roof is doing, adds mass to the panel in question and that lowers the resonant frequency of the panel. And, since our hearing is much more sensitive to higher frequencies, that in and of itself reduces the perceived noise level.

Absorption, which is what the insulation provides, does what its name suggests, and absorbs sound energy. But, it also works best on the higher (I should actually say mid-range) frequencies, so you get a double-whammy.

And, if you have the headliner out a good place for damping material is the underside of the roof as that panel radiates directly to your ears. You could add some insulation up there before reinstalling the headliner, but make sure you don't have any place for moisture to get in or it'll hold it and cause rust.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:31 PM
  #53  
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So did a little more work this weekend and finished up the floor and back of the cab. I was wanting to get all this done so I could put down the new rubber floor that I picked up from LMC, however I didn't realize the factory OEM style rubber floor mat didn't go all the way to the back of the cab. So now I have to figure out what I'm gonna do for the rest of the floor. Leave it like it is....or find some more rubber floor, I'm open for suggestions? Also painted under the seat a little bit to clean up the rust, and put a few coats on the door sills, and finished it all up by running all the new stereo wiring. Now just need to finish putting it all back together.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:47 PM
  #54  
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I think I'd send the rubber back and get carpet since it will cover. Then, if you need rubber, get good rubber mats.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 09:51 PM
  #55  
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I thought the factory floor mats went around the sides of the seats. My 85 does for the rubber flooring.
So LMC does not? That will play in effect when I get around to do my 85 truck.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:11 PM
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By the way, it sure looks good! You are really going to be happy when you get it going. Much less noise.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:23 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by trent_44
I see people do this, how do you prevent water from being trapped underneath that silver stuff (and thereby rotting the floor out)?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:27 PM
  #58  
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I believe the stuff has a adhesive tar that sticks to the floor and gives it a good seal.
For the short peices of rubber missing from LMC. could you trim the olds ones and have the new one over lap it. Then the sides would be covered. Just a thought.
But I would of thought the new ones would of extended up the sides.
I can imagine your disappointment the new ones did not. I would be.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2011 | 10:28 PM
  #59  
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Make sure the floor is painted well, seal all the holes in the floor and firewall, and use heat to seal the stuff to the floor. It is intended for roofing use so will not allow water under it if you have it well sealed.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2011 | 10:26 PM
  #60  
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Just a few pics of painting the new dash pad cover I picked up from LMC. Gave it a quick coat of SEM color coat and called it good. Also gave the old pad a quick coat around the edges that shows through for the new pad, turned out pretty well I thought.
 
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