1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Project "No Buck"

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  #61  
Old 12-13-2011, 06:20 AM
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I see the vent ports are a bit different in shape than the original. I also do not see any screw holes in the vent ports for screwing down. Do they have on the back a marking for drilling holes for the screws?
Hate to see the dash get all marreg from drilling after you painted it.
 
  #62  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:44 AM
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Trent, how does the new pad attach? Does it just glue over the old pad? Or does it replace the old pad entirely? I will be getting one of those or similar when I get that far with my interior. I didn't know you had a silver interior, or that Ford even came out with one.
 
  #63  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I think I'd send the rubber back and get carpet since it will cover. Then, if you need rubber, get good rubber mats.
I'm not the biggest fan of carpet, and with me trying to keep my budget down I think I'm going to have to get a little creative. I only work about two miles from LMC's main shop so I'll see what they say and possibly have laying around.

Originally Posted by 66gpw
I thought the factory floor mats went around the sides of the seats. My 85 does for the rubber flooring.
So LMC does not? That will play in effect when I get around to do my 85 truck.
When I first got the new rubber mat I didn't think anything about it, however once I put it down on the floor I was a little shocked. I went right to the catalog and noticed it wasn't the full piece.

Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
By the way, it sure looks good! You are really going to be happy when you get it going. Much less noise.
I think it will help out a ton!!
Originally Posted by ctubutis
I see people do this, how do you prevent water from being trapped underneath that silver stuff (and thereby rotting the floor out)?
66gpw is correct, it has a tar backing that is actually used for roofing, so I made sure the whole floor was clean and once I stuck this product to the floor I used a heat gun to ensure it's not moving.

Originally Posted by 66gpw
I believe the stuff has a adhesive tar that sticks to the floor and gives it a good seal.
For the short peices of rubber missing from LMC. could you trim the olds ones and have the new one over lap it. Then the sides would be covered. Just a thought.
But I would of thought the new ones would of extended up the sides.
I can imagine your disappointment the new ones did not. I would be.
My old rubber mat was in such bad and brittle shape it came out in chunks. I'm going to do a little talking with LMC today and see what we can come up with.

Originally Posted by 66gpw
I see the vent ports are a bit different in shape than the original. I also do not see any screw holes in the vent ports for screwing down. Do they have on the back a marking for drilling holes for the screws?
Hate to see the dash get all marreg from drilling after you painted it.
This is actually a dash pad cover, it will fit over the original dash pad. It's amazing on how well it fits over the original, you just place some adhesive that they supply with it and stick it down. Then you use all the original screw holes from the old one and call it good.
 
  #64  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Grubbworm
Trent, how does the new pad attach? Does it just glue over the old pad? Or does it replace the old pad entirely? I will be getting one of those or similar when I get that far with my interior. I didn't know you had a silver interior, or that Ford even came out with one.
Ya it glues over the old pad and it's amazing on how well it fits over the original.And for the silver interior, I used SEM color coat to change my old tan/brown interior. I believe in post #32 it shows the before pictures of the interior and then the after pictures.
 
  #65  
Old 12-24-2011, 11:55 PM
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So finally returned the half piece of rubber to LMC. I exchanged it with a full piece of molded industrial polyvinyl, it said it would need some trimming. That is a complete understatement, I was shocked on how much I actually had to trim off of it. However I didn't get any pictures of this process because I was actually getting a little frustrated with it. I'm hoping this upcoming summer heat will smooth it out a tad. It actually doesn't look as bad in person as it does in the pictures. As for the rest of the cab, got the new dash pad installed as well as the original door sills that were painted black. Got the seat bolted down as well as the few other panels. Hopefully get the rest of the panels and door panels on this next week. Oh, and don't mind the torn and tattered seat, hopefully with some Xmas money I can grab a seat cover. Hope you all enjoy and have a great holiday.
 
  #66  
Old 12-25-2011, 02:57 AM
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I wonder if you had a heat gun when installing would of helped smoothing out the install. We use the heat gun to help bend plastics at work or to heat up glue backing on things to let go from surfaces without it tearing what we want to remove and reglue back down. Like decals.
 
  #67  
Old 12-25-2011, 08:58 AM
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You're supposed to unroll it in the house, at room temps for at least 24 hrs....
 
  #68  
Old 12-25-2011, 10:08 AM
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Completely random question, but did you really haul your F100 with the yellow Ranger in the pics? What's the GVWR on your Ranger?

I've always considered hauling my F150 with my Ranger a big fat no, but now I'm wondering if it's possible with a GVWR upgrade.
 
  #69  
Old 12-25-2011, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by 66gpw
I wonder if you had a heat gun when installing would of helped smoothing out the install. We use the heat gun to help bend plastics at work or to heat up glue backing on things to let go from surfaces without it tearing what we want to remove and reglue back down. Like decals.
I actually did use a heat gun when I installed it, but with the size of the entire thing it's hard to heat it all well enough in order for it to lay out. So I'm happy with it, just hoping with the heat it will smooth it out a tad.

Originally Posted by SideWinder4.9l
You're supposed to unroll it in the house, at room temps for at least 24 hrs....
Ya, I actually allowed it 48 hours in the house to get it to smooth out.

Originally Posted by Fordzilla80
Completely random question, but did you really haul your F100 with the yellow Ranger in the pics? What's the GVWR on your Ranger?

I've always considered hauling my F150 with my Ranger a big fat no, but now I'm wondering if it's possible with a GVWR upgrade.
Yes, my dad actually hauled it 100 miles to meet me half way with it. It pulls it extremely nice, however the trailer we used is small car trailer that is light weight. And the GVWR is 5120 on the Yellow ranger.
 
  #70  
Old 12-25-2011, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by trent_44
Yes, my dad actually hauled it 100 miles to meet me half way with it. It pulls it extremely nice, however the trailer we used is small car trailer that is light weight. And the GVWR is 5120 on the Yellow ranger.

Hmm, my Ranger is at 4950 with a 4.10 rear gear ratio. However my F150 is at a GVWR of around 5400, so it's a little bigger than your Flareside F100, so it may not be that good of an idea.lol.
 
  #71  
Old 12-27-2011, 10:05 PM
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Well with some xmas money in hand I went out and bought a seat cover for the old girl. Looks 100% better, however, the seat cover didn't cover all of the brown from the original seat. So I went and purchased a can of vinyl and upholstery paint, this stuff worked amazing. For being a quick fix I have zero complaints. With this going so well it got me thinking, why spend a couple hundred bucks on new seat belts when mine are in good shape just brown in color? I went and purchased a couple more cans and started painting away on the old belts. Hopefully tomorrow I can get them put back in and everything else buttoned up for the final time, don't mind the brown belts in the pictures. I took them before I decided to paint the belts. Also had to take a picture of the new tag my old man put in my stocking for xmas, don't mind the bug guts they'll be cleaned off sooner or later.


 
  #72  
Old 01-30-2012, 08:04 PM
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Just a little bit of an update, got most of the stereo in and done, just need new radio bezel to finish it up. In the last picture you can see the seatbelts have been updated. Instead of buying new belts that were going to cost a couple hundred bucks I decided I would get a little creative. I went and bought some fabric paint at the local automotive store and started applying multiple light coats. I think the finished product turned out great and only cost me about 5 bucks.
 
  #73  
Old 02-01-2012, 03:16 PM
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Just had to say you did an awesome job with it. I wish my 83 Could've turned out half as nice as yours did.

I'll be watching this thread for sure!
 
  #74  
Old 02-20-2012, 10:44 PM
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Thanks to Gary Lewis for hooking me up with a new steering wheel insert and radio bezel. I can finally see the light at the end of the tunnel with the interior. I took both parts and scuffed them with a 3m pad, primed, and painted with gloss black. Nice and simple but it's exactly what I was looking for. As for the steering wheel, you can see in previous post that it had a steering wheel cover on it, electrical tape and a steering wheel wrap. All I can say is I believe they used at least four rolls of electrical tape. All in all the wheel was in pretty good shape with a few small cracks and one bigger crack. Since Gary helped me out with the new wheel insert it kept me from buying a whole new wheel. So, I decided budget again for fixing the crack issue. The fix being a new wheel wrap from Autozone for a whopping 7.99, and I think it turned out great. The radio bezel turned out great- with this bezel it has the stock clock where as mine didn't have that. So once again Gary helped out with this and got this all hooked up. Had a little problem with the stock connection staying connected so I just cut both ends off and added some quick disconnects, worked perfect. Once I got the cd player installed, a set of subs, and an amp that I had sitting around, it sounds awesome. So just a few more touches inside and hopefully it will be buttoned up.
 
  #75  
Old 02-20-2012, 11:12 PM
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Looks good, Trent. As you said, the light at the end of the tunnel is more visible now. Good progress.
 


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