Let the fun begin!
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,696
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
Let the fun begin!
Front clip off in one piece. This was a low powerish 78 smog 351W. I hope to make 350- 400 hp when done. Block is at the machine shop now. I found I had a broken compression ring in #3, scoring the wall pretty good to the point where I had to send back the .30 over hypereutectic slugs and get .60 over. Got World products Windsor SR. heads, Crane cam, New Sandersons, lots of other goodies. Next I will cut out homemade motor mounts and weld in new 1" offset prefab motor mounts from MF. I hope to have it done by the NSRA S.E. nats in October.I would love to lose the big Chrysler brake booster/mc. but am having trouble finding a bolt in replacement in a smaller size. 
Logistics Pro
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,644
Likes: 55
From: Moro Bay, AR
Sounds like a plan, but, and there's always that "but", in my experience some engines bored over .030 start getting into the danger zone of thin cylinder walls and possible overheating. I've never bored a 351W that far, so I don't know if it will affect it.
On the brake booster, you could go to a hydro-boost unit, but then you'd have an extra hose or two to plumb
Here's a link to a kit to do just this http://www.theramman.com/products/mo...ost/index.html
On the brake booster, you could go to a hydro-boost unit, but then you'd have an extra hose or two to plumb
Here's a link to a kit to do just this http://www.theramman.com/products/mo...ost/index.html
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,696
Likes: 1
From: S.W. Florida
Jeff, my machinist says that these mid-late 70's blocks have plenty of metal and he is not concerned about getting too thin. Iappreciate the link, but 575$ is a bit too much for my wallet..
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
Way cool! I've got a 408/351w for yah! Course it's also over budget.
Trying to decide on driving to Dallas this weekend to pick up a rebuilt AOD tranny to replace the C4, and skip te 383 stroker.
Sam
Trying to decide on driving to Dallas this weekend to pick up a rebuilt AOD tranny to replace the C4, and skip te 383 stroker.
Sam
FTE Legend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 32,044
Likes: 2,430
From: Upstate NY
Seems like that ought to be enough to get that thing down the road at a decent speed. Hope you get it done by show time!
Meanwhile, I will be putting down the road with my redone 223! I have a 429 sitting in the barn that needs building but I just can't bring myself to make the financial commitment! One of these days another wild hair will grow!
Meanwhile, I will be putting down the road with my redone 223! I have a 429 sitting in the barn that needs building but I just can't bring myself to make the financial commitment! One of these days another wild hair will grow!
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Austin Texas
You might consider fixing the patch with steel as a low cost alternative. I also see those pans all the time on the mustang forums and occasionally craigslist.
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
Likes: 14
From: Pflugerville, tx
well, the problem on the ford is that the pickup connection point on the block is still the front side, and the pipe has to go down and turn 90 degrees..
so the front part of the rear sump pan is taller than one would see on a ch*vy pan..
here's what my 460 rear sump (mid sump for van) looks like in the front, front on the left
Sam
so the front part of the rear sump pan is taller than one would see on a ch*vy pan..
here's what my 460 rear sump (mid sump for van) looks like in the front, front on the left
Sam
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,276
Likes: 0
From: Westminster,Md
I installed the oilpan Sam posted, it allowed a little more room around the crossmember...just enough to warrant the price tag.
As a sidenote, if you are installing new motor mounts to offset the engine/trans anyway, why not do both the offset and the new oilpan at the same time..this was the way I approached the ford/ front oilpump/crossmember obstacle, jockeying all the pieces (brakes,radiator,firewall-valvecovers,crossmember..) until a reasonable compromise was reached.
One benefit of an all steel oilpan is that it carved-up and re-welded to suit your needs pretty cheap and quick.The ford/ oilpump location is a challenge, I've seen pick-up tubes/sump pick-ups lengthened and re-directed to help (3-4 cut pieces welded together for optimal sump position)...then the pan customized to fit. I once heard the 351w Bronco equiped oilpans were the pan of choice in this operation..I have a good used one in stock (1989 351w) if you want to experiment with it.
You may also consider "notching'" then re-inforcing the crossmember in the oilpump interference area. This modification is often done for pwr steering rack interference issues..might be something else to look at..where there is a will..there is a way LoL!
Good Luck!
As a sidenote, if you are installing new motor mounts to offset the engine/trans anyway, why not do both the offset and the new oilpan at the same time..this was the way I approached the ford/ front oilpump/crossmember obstacle, jockeying all the pieces (brakes,radiator,firewall-valvecovers,crossmember..) until a reasonable compromise was reached.
One benefit of an all steel oilpan is that it carved-up and re-welded to suit your needs pretty cheap and quick.The ford/ oilpump location is a challenge, I've seen pick-up tubes/sump pick-ups lengthened and re-directed to help (3-4 cut pieces welded together for optimal sump position)...then the pan customized to fit. I once heard the 351w Bronco equiped oilpans were the pan of choice in this operation..I have a good used one in stock (1989 351w) if you want to experiment with it.
You may also consider "notching'" then re-inforcing the crossmember in the oilpump interference area. This modification is often done for pwr steering rack interference issues..might be something else to look at..where there is a will..there is a way LoL!
Good Luck!
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,192
Likes: 4,801
From: Burbank, WA
The front "sump" isn't really so much a sump as it is a clearance bump for the oil pump. You're not going to get away from that, as long as you're using a Ford engine with wet sump oiling. And it doesn't sound like you want to spring for some custom racing dry sump set up. 
The Mustang pan does have a drain plug in front because the floor of the pan is too high in the middle for full drainback to the sump. Truck application and other pans may have a lower floor not needing the second drain, but there won't be any more clearance at the pump location.
For $100, the Ford Racing kit is hard to beat. Sure, you might find a pan cheaper somewhere, but the kit includes a new, matching pickup tube, special main bolt and hardware to install it, dipstick and tube, all clean and new, ready to go. No taking a chance on used/stripped drain bolt threads or gummed up pickup, and not spending extra time and materials cleaning off 100,000 miles of grease, grime, and sludge, inside and out.
Nothing is going to be 100% perfect. As with any custom modification, you always have to be prepared to adjust fitting as necessary, per your application.
The Mustang pan does have a drain plug in front because the floor of the pan is too high in the middle for full drainback to the sump. Truck application and other pans may have a lower floor not needing the second drain, but there won't be any more clearance at the pump location.For $100, the Ford Racing kit is hard to beat. Sure, you might find a pan cheaper somewhere, but the kit includes a new, matching pickup tube, special main bolt and hardware to install it, dipstick and tube, all clean and new, ready to go. No taking a chance on used/stripped drain bolt threads or gummed up pickup, and not spending extra time and materials cleaning off 100,000 miles of grease, grime, and sludge, inside and out.
Nothing is going to be 100% perfect. As with any custom modification, you always have to be prepared to adjust fitting as necessary, per your application.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 935
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver, WA
There are a couple of factory pans out there that may work for you. The Crown Victorias came with 351Ws optionally up till the dawn of the 4.6s. Then there is the '80s Ford Fseries and Bronco pan. Here's a couple pics to give you food for thought.
Here a pan from an '87 Crown Victoria.
Here's one from an '83 Ford Bronco. I have this same pan in my '69 F100 and it came from an '81 F-series.
Here's the two pans side by side to give you reference. The Bronco/F-series pan is about as tight as you're gonna get. The High Volume oil pump is said not to fit, but i made it fit into mine. It was VERY tight. Knowing that, this pan is as tight to the pump as you're gonna get. The crown vic pan obviously is a tad deeper because it has a front drain.
Here a pan from an '87 Crown Victoria.
Here's one from an '83 Ford Bronco. I have this same pan in my '69 F100 and it came from an '81 F-series.
Here's the two pans side by side to give you reference. The Bronco/F-series pan is about as tight as you're gonna get. The High Volume oil pump is said not to fit, but i made it fit into mine. It was VERY tight. Knowing that, this pan is as tight to the pump as you're gonna get. The crown vic pan obviously is a tad deeper because it has a front drain.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,577
Likes: 29
From: Pekin, IL
The '87 Crown Vic pan is what I had to use. I had clearance issues with the truck/van pan, also I am using a JAG IFS so i can't really tell ya how it will work for your truck. The main sump sits farther back which solved my clearance. I bought a brand new one and oil pickup tube, from Autozone.
It was around a hundred dollars with basic black paint/powder coat, whatever it is.
It was around a hundred dollars with basic black paint/powder coat, whatever it is.
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