I'm checking into options for a powertrain for my truck, the current 272 sounds great but gets about 5mpg on a good day, in other words it's not being driven much and doesn't have the power I'd like anyways.

I found a 351w in town that's taken apart for a rebuild. It's from a '78 Ford Elite.

I've worked on engines before, particularly the 302, but I've yet to fully build one up. It doesn't strike me as something that I'll get in over my head with but it does seem like one of those things where it would be wise to ask a few questions first so I don't end up doing something that causes a problem down the line.

I would like to get some decent power out of it, around 300hp, but it's also meant for daily driving so decent gas mileage as well. If there is a time to build it the way you want, its definitely when it's in pieces.

This isn't a dream build, just a practical one, I can't afford $2000 heads on it right now for example. So what would be the musts to swap out? Cam I'm sure, but what to go with? It's all stuff I know about but having never actually built an engine from the ground up I can't help but ask for opinions.

Things to look out for or be cautious of?

Thanks

 

If it was me I would build up the Y Block. Be about the same money and same power when done. Without all the mods to mounts and like that. Lots of performance parts for the Y's out there now. My .02

 

I got a 351w and all I am planning on doing is a set of Ford GT40p heads (getting P because they are easy to find and cheap) and a Cobra Upper and lower intake. I might also do 24lb injectors since I have to buy a MAS for the motor anyways. I am hopping for 300hp but we will see. My buddy has a 408 stroker kit but I feel it would be a waste to install that kit with GT40p heads and intake.

 

I thought about building up the y-block, but I'm "poor man" building right now, I'm not completely rebuilding everything, just making things work for daily driving.

I'm use to the 302 and from what I've seen the 351w is pretty close, so that makes a plus for it... not to mention it may find it's way under my '67 Mustang which is set up with a 302 currently.


It looks like a pretty decent deal, the engine I'm looking at has been taken apart but all there. If its just in need to be reassembled and not in need of a full rebuild kit, it could be a great deal for me. It's about time I learned how to rebuild an engine anyways.

The 351w seems to be a pretty ideal engine for me, it's something that I can use in multiple projects and interchange parts (when you have 4 small block Fords, it's nice to interchange things if you need). I may keep the 272 and build it up, but in truth the truck is a daily driver, and having to replace something on the spot is easier with a 351w than a Y-block.

The Gt40 heads seems to be a common mod, if I can find a cheap set and maybe an intake, that might be all I need. I guess the only thing left to mildly do this would be a new cam, but it might not even be necessary for what I'm using it for. Just want to build it strong and build it right, would hate to go through all the work then have someone ask, "So why didn't you put this in there while you where at it and have it be much better?" lol

 

1978 was about the nadir of performance for American automobile engines.

To get 300 hp you will need to change the heads, camshaft, intake manifold and carburetor, for starters.

It might be wiser to search out a 1994 and up 351, as it has a roller camshaft. Nowadays there is some concern about excessive wear with flat tappet camshafts because modern oils do not contain so much of the additives that protect the camshaft lobe/lifter base contact surfaces.

Even with the 1994-up engine you will most likely be replacing those same items as listed earlier, to achieve 300hp.

 

It's a 2bbl so I planned to swap that out, needs a carb. So basically I can build it up with a new camshaft, the heads I figured I would look into some Gt40s as well.

Alright, like I said, I'm new at the whole rebuilding thing and don't know exactly whats good and what needs to be replaced. What all do I have to replace on it when putting it back together, I mean how do I know if a part has gone bad? I see rebuild kits that have pistons and everything else, I'm not looking to build a monster, it's my first engine build, I'm just giving it a go and want to come out with something decent. Maybe down the line when I am more experienced with it all I might have some more fun and put some more money down into it, but right now I just want something that will make it so I can drive my truck reliably (the 272 is sorta reliable, my ability to change gears with that transmission is not, lol)


The guy is cleaning out his garage, the 351w is in pieces but all there minus the carb, valve covers and oil pan. He also has a C4 (might be a FMX) that comes with it that he said shifted well. Course thats here-say but he only wants about $125 for everything and said he was willing to negotiant because he just wanted it out of his garage, so I might be able to get it for like $50. Seems like a fair place to learn how to build an engine.

What I am most weary of is the nickels and dimes. If I can re-use a part, I'd like to. I've been a professional blacksmith for many years and use to do machine work, I've worked on cars for many years just never actually put together an engine from the block up. Are there certain things that must be replaced other than seals? How can I tell if it needs this or that, such as honing the cylinders?

I'm not looking for a money pit, frankly I'm just looking for a good engine for my truck and to learn the process of building engines, there is a really good chance I will go back and re-do all of this in a few years with sparkly chrome and forged this and that, but right now I'm more curious of what it NEEDS, and how to tell if it's a need or a "it be nice". My project funds are pretty limited, but this could be something that makes my truck a whole lot more daily drivable.

 

I'm just finishing up a budget 351w.

I started with a stock bottom end, new rings, bearings etc.

A new cam and lifters is a "must" IMO. I went with comp cams XE262H and matching lifters.

For intake I chose a Weiand Stealth, but any dual plane 4bbl should be fine.

You'll definitely want different heads too. I couldn't find a good set of GT40's so I went with E7's with a bit of porting.

Any carb around 600cfm should work fine. I went with a used Holley 600cfm vac. secondaries and rebuilt it myself.

My engine should be around 300hp and 400ft/lbs. It cost me about $800 and many hours of enjoyment building it!

 

So this is not going to be one of those things that can just go back together is it? I'm guessing I will need at least $1,000 no matter what I try with it.
Crap.

 

How long do you want the engine to last? Stop gap until you can build something nicer or 100,000 miles? Maybe it runs fine with new bearing and rings, then again maybe it doesn't. Engines usually don't get disassembled for no reason, though.

If you're interested I've got a new Comp XE250 cam and timing set for a 351W gathering dust that I'd part with for cheap.

 

Maybe Abby's trying ta tell ya she likes here Y Block.

 

If it were me i would just rebuild the engine using new rings & bearings. There is no reason not to since the engine is apart. The only part I would replace at this time is the cam. Get a flat tappet cam as converting the block to use a roller cam is not cheap and requires special roller lifters.

Get a RV/Truck cam if you want good fuel economy. Later when you have the cash you can get a set of GT40 heads, headers, 1.7 rockers, and still use any intake you choose to use now.

I had a 1993 Cobra Mustang. Using a stock short block including the cam but with a larger Mass Air meter, ported upper & lower Cobra FI intake and long tube headers I pulled 270 HP at the wheels on the dyno. In your case add 49 cubic inches and you are looking at 300 HP! The only difference would be that I had a roller cam and you would have a flat tappet one.

 

Yeah... I'm a bit torn on which way I will want to go in the end. Nothing sounds like a Y-block. Right now that old manual behind it is killing me though (I love it in my Mustang, but man, a lot sure changed from 56 to 67!) I may just look into a cheap way of putting some sort of auto behind it in the mean time... might build up a nice Y-block and change everything all out later (still planning some 4x4 stuff, so I will probably need the power) But I've still been wanting to build up a 351w for my Mustang.

Thanks for the help guys. I think I'll have to wait on doing an engine build for a while, simply can't afford all the parts I'll need. The 272 in my truck only has about 25,000 miles on it (she was garaged for 50 years too, worked at a Gold mine, found silver nuggets in the glove box, ha) and I think it could be a decent engine for me till I need more power. The 351w was just something that came up and if I could have just put it back together and paid $100 for it an a c4, it seemed like a good idea, lol. But I have a feeling it would be one of those never ending journeys for a while and one more thing to move...

 

here's what i did for my 84 bare 351w scat crank,h-beam rods, bored .040 over, gt40 heads with a 3 angle valve job 1 piece stainless steel valves 2.02 intake 1.94 exhaust, 509 lift cam, edelbrock intake mustang shorty headers,summit racing catback dual exhaust kit. coming soon is a holley 750 dp carb 3.73 gears rebuild kit for the c4 tranny & a pbm balancer.

 

Hey man if gas millage is a concern for you, don't go with the c4. You might want to find an AOD. Also instead of the gt40 heads, you could find some E7 heads. They are not as good, but they are a lot cheaper. Some people even put bigger Chevy valves in them to make power.

If you could find an early 90's motor with AOD attached, that might be your best bet.

 

IF you can find them GT40 heads can be had for $300 in good condition. If you get the E7 you then have to port them a bit, cut the valve seats for bigger valves, maybe new guides, etc. etc. Unless you "know" someone who works in a machine shop and get the used heads for free you're going to spend more then $300 getting all this done.

Look for a good used set of GT40's and just bolt them on.