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Emergency brake setup for 8.8 Rear

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Old 08-27-2011, 01:14 PM
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Emergency brake setup for 8.8 Rear

I have a 2000 Explorer 8.8 all setup in my No Limit 4 bar and I am trying to figure out how the emergency brakes will work. Its a Disk brake setup and I have the cables from the caliper on each side but that is it. Can I somehow make this work with the stock setup, or would it just be easier to go get the rest of the setup from the Explorer and fab that pedal in?
Thanks
Kelly
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 03:18 PM
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Keep it stock

Kelly;

I used 2001 3:73 from Explorer on my '50; used stock handle and cable from cab; then transitioned to rear bracket from Explorer.

Took very little effort; and does work. I originally tried using compression fitting, which "slipped off" so used a loop connection and fabbed short straight section with bolt through it. So far , so good.
 
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Old 08-27-2011, 04:10 PM
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Originally Posted by rzns60
I have a 2000 Explorer 8.8 all setup in my No Limit 4 bar and I am trying to figure out how the emergency brakes will work. Its a Disk brake setup and I have the cables from the caliper on each side but that is it. Can I somehow make this work with the stock setup, or would it just be easier to go get the rest of the setup from the Explorer and fab that pedal in?
Thanks
Kelly
I have an older 8.8 disc brake setup, which uses the calipers to apply the parking brake. What does the newer one do? Caliper or internal shoes?

I bought custom cables from a foot pedal to the rear connections.

A cable from pedal to junction under the cab, and two cables from the junction. See http://store.controlcables.com/servl..._streetrod.htm

Sam
 
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:57 AM
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On my F1 with stock e brake handle, I bought a Lokar brake cable and ran it along the left side frame rail. I connected the two cables from the rear into a fabbed T bar which attaches to the lokar cable. I used stock explorer cables running across the axle in a stock fashion. I read an article in Street Rodder a few year back that used all lokar parts and ran the cable down the center from the handle/pedal to lokar cables from the axle forward. That worked fine, but it's alot more money.
 
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:01 PM
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There is also a company called Control Cables, in Santa Fe Springs, Ca. who specializes in custom cables for anything. They are very knowledgeable about all types of applications. They could probably hook you up with whatever you need to adapt.
 
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Old 08-28-2011, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2dasand
There is also a company called Control Cables, in Santa Fe Springs, Ca. who specializes in custom cables for anything. They are very knowledgeable about all types of applications. They could probably hook you up with whatever you need to adapt.
yep.. referenced on post 3 with link

Sam
 
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:34 PM
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Hey Kelly,
Let me know what direction you go on this one - I've got an Explorer 8.8 going in mine as well - Saving it to the end as the chassis has wheels & rolls now. I was looking at a foot pedal in the lower driver's side.

Ben in Austin

(I'm tired of this crappy heat - 112 degrees in Austin today - tied for the hottest day ever since they have been keeping track in the 1850's. I'm about fully cooked over here - I have no idea how Sam is out working on his truck in this).
 
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Old 08-30-2011, 06:24 PM
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Hey Ben,
I will keep in you in the loop. I will take a look at the old setup this weekend so I can start to figure out how to hook the two together.

I hear you about the heat, my Dad and I have been working all summer and we have have lost some weight out there in the garage. I can't wait till October gets here.

Sam I will take a look this weekend to see how the brake setup works. I have not even pulled the rotors off yet. Its still the way it was when I grabbed it at the Junk yard.
 
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Old 08-30-2011, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ben73058
Hey Kelly,
Let me know what direction you go on this one - I've got an Explorer 8.8 going in mine as well - Saving it to the end as the chassis has wheels & rolls now. I was looking at a foot pedal in the lower driver's side.

Ben in Austin

(I'm tired of this crappy heat - 112 degrees in Austin today - tied for the hottest day ever since they have been keeping track in the 1850's. I'm about fully cooked over here - I have no idea how Sam is out working on his truck in this).
6:30-8:30am is how!..
go out to the shop, turn on the big wall fan, open the 10x10 door
when u start to drip on the parts, quit..

Sam
 
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:44 PM
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I am using the 96 and later disk brake setup on my 9 inch rearend. I bought two sets of cables from Lokar, one is seen in the attached photo and the other attaches to the stock e-brake lever in the cab. These disk brakes have the shoe-type e-brake inside the rotor.
 
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:48 PM
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I am hopping on this thread also, stealing the best idea hope ya'll don't mind!
I cleaned and painted my 8.8 explorer axle this weekend. had a wheel stud to replace so I pulled the cover, axles from the housing. I went to harbor freight and bought a slick rear axle bearing remover! pulled the seals easily then used the remover on the end of a slide hammer and those bearings were putty in my hands!
I bought oem e-brake cables for mine a couple days ago. And it is a disc brake unit. so i am interested in learning!
 
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Old 09-03-2011, 12:32 PM
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After choosing the explorer disc rear I also had the same questions, solved by looking under several different models of cars/trucks and gathered up about a bucket worth of odd-shaped metal chunks of stuff. Oddly enough most of it was from other explorer's brake cables. One coupler was from a Jeep Cherokee..I ended up cobble'ing just enough together to make it work. Before I got too far, I completely dissasembled the brakes and cleaned /lubed everything ..the stock cables needed the most attention to operate smoothly, remember to leave 'some' type of adjustment somewhere...
 
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Old 09-03-2011, 04:33 PM
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My 49 F-1 emergency cable ends in a threaded fitting. In the corvette they use a "parking brake cable equalizer" from 1964 -1982. With this you can use a single cable from one rear brake to the other or two cables run through the equalizer and use cable clamps. The part works using the stock cab handle and cable back to where it splits. Use stock threaded fitting and fit through the equalizer and add a nut on the threaded fitting. Google,there is a picture of the part. You could make this part. chuck
 
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