No start
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 10,121
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From: Orrville, Ohio
The PCM is not working. That is why you have no WTS light and no power to the GPR. We need to be sure you're getting power to the PCM before you go out and buy a new one. Do you get any lights on the dash when you turn the key on?
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2011
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Yeah i get a ABS light, my RABS was all messed up so i by passed it, still need to figure out how to shut that off, I get a water in fuel, engine temp, and break light some times, I was getting the CEL but that seems to have stopped coming on recently, im more than happy to pull plugs and check voltages anywhere else if i knew where to start looking. Again I have no wiring diagram so let me know if there are any good spots to check.
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keeping you guys updated
So i just pulled the connector on the pcm, and only have power on two plugs, number 2 which is the CEL and 55 which is the "keep alive power", so it seems to me that i need to get power to the PCM yes? any idea where it comes from what plug to look for or where to start looking? ohh yeah key was in the run position.
thanks
Lucas
thanks
Lucas
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Freshman User
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Grounds
ok so also went through the whole think looking for grounds, few things caught my attention,
24 had no ground, listed as a ground
34 was grounded, MAP sensor
40 No ground, speed control ground,
55, ground keep, keep alive,
80, grounded, wait to start,
90, week ground, reference output voltage
other pins that were grounded but made sense were,
34, 37, 38, 41,42,51,64,65,76,77, 79, 80, 84, 87, 89, 91, 92, 95, 96, 100
let me know what you guys think about all of that, and will it hurt anything to run strait 12 volts to the pin 71, which is listed as "power input"? or is it a reduced votage?
24 had no ground, listed as a ground
34 was grounded, MAP sensor
40 No ground, speed control ground,
55, ground keep, keep alive,
80, grounded, wait to start,
90, week ground, reference output voltage
other pins that were grounded but made sense were,
34, 37, 38, 41,42,51,64,65,76,77, 79, 80, 84, 87, 89, 91, 92, 95, 96, 100
let me know what you guys think about all of that, and will it hurt anything to run strait 12 volts to the pin 71, which is listed as "power input"? or is it a reduced votage?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
As you know pin 71 is main power to the PCM. It comes from the PCM relay which probably is not energizing, or the relay is bad. The coil of the relay is protected by fuse #22 (30 amp), might be another number on E-van. After fuse #22 power flows through a diode, looks like a fuse in the power distribution box (white in color) then to the relay coil.
Do you have an owners manual with the fuse box layout showing the PCM relay, diode and PCM 30 amp fuse locations? I might have one I can upload if not. How many relays in the power distribution box (3) and are they on the top left hand side.
It's almost always the fuse, even though it checks good with a meter.
I would not hook power directly to Pin 71 and yes it is 12 volts.
Do you have an owners manual with the fuse box layout showing the PCM relay, diode and PCM 30 amp fuse locations? I might have one I can upload if not. How many relays in the power distribution box (3) and are they on the top left hand side.
It's almost always the fuse, even though it checks good with a meter.
I would not hook power directly to Pin 71 and yes it is 12 volts.
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Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2011
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I got the pcm talking again, Series of unfortunate events, but in the end hooked the cigaret lighter up, replaced some fuses and got power up at 71 plugged it back in to the PCM and got all the lights WTS and CEL, cranked it, still no start, what next.
And no i dont have a wiring diagram or owners manual, i have a manual, but wiring or fues box stuff, just mechanical compnets, and a Gas engine manual,
And no i dont have a wiring diagram or owners manual, i have a manual, but wiring or fues box stuff, just mechanical compnets, and a Gas engine manual,
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
The other thing you can do is to check the fuel pump pressure while cranking the engine. You can use a stick style tire gauge for this (use a cheap one b/c the fuel may ruit the seals in it). There is a Schraeder valve on the outside of the FPR assembly on the driver side of the fuel bowl. Remove the black plastic cap and check the pressure while someone is cranking it. Press firmly and keep your face out of the way as fuel may spray. As long as you are seeing 20 or so PSI of fuel pressure while you're cranking it, you should be good to go.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Look here at post #73 and #82 ... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ncluded-6.html
Also these have most of the information you might need ...
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...ia/siamain.htm
Also these have most of the information you might need ...
1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual
http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/949...ia/siamain.htm
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