Help! truck will not start
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Help! truck will not start
1990 F-250 264k Replaced my fuel pump as a preventative maintenance item and truck will not start. getting fuel to injectors(have cracked them to bleed probably forty times) checked shutoff solenoid it clicks and has power when key on. Changed the fuel filter and found some glycerin in bottom of filter(been running some bio and that is not good)Truck ran before new pump so I re-installed old fuel pump and still nothing. She is cranking over fine and I know the glow plugs work, block heater is on anyway. Can the ip clog with grit? Can you clean it? I would appreciate any ideas!
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Murray KY
On a diesel tractor I had a problem like that and finally just left one line loose (leaking some that is) at the injector and turned the engine until it started to hit on that one then the others came on line.
I do not know your engine so this may be a bad idea in your case. I was pulling my remaining three hairs out and stopped trying to keep diesel off the side of the engine.
When a system has been totally opened I guess there can be air locks at points other than the injectors. I had a Zetor that would restart every time on its own and it had two filters with screen elements that had to be manually washed.
Best of luck.
I do not know your engine so this may be a bad idea in your case. I was pulling my remaining three hairs out and stopped trying to keep diesel off the side of the engine.
When a system has been totally opened I guess there can be air locks at points other than the injectors. I had a Zetor that would restart every time on its own and it had two filters with screen elements that had to be manually washed.
Best of luck.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Peterborough, Ontario
I've always found that disturbing a fuel system as little as possible at a time is a way to prevent some aggravation. Changing a fuel filter for example, I make sure the tank(s) are full, and where possible, I will pour fuel into the filter to fill as much as possible while installing. This way it reduces the volume required to remove the air that is left.
Even when I changed the o-rings and return lines at the injectors I would only do a couple and then fire it up for a couple minutes, that way I wasn't getting excess air into injector lines. I'm sure to an extent it's overkill, but when you've had to fight a cummins 350, or 60 series detroit for 2 hours after a fuel filter change, you learn things to make life simpler for yourself. (Boosting something that has 4 batteries in it, when it's parked in a shop with the batteries along a wall is also interesting.)
Even when I changed the o-rings and return lines at the injectors I would only do a couple and then fire it up for a couple minutes, that way I wasn't getting excess air into injector lines. I'm sure to an extent it's overkill, but when you've had to fight a cummins 350, or 60 series detroit for 2 hours after a fuel filter change, you learn things to make life simpler for yourself. (Boosting something that has 4 batteries in it, when it's parked in a shop with the batteries along a wall is also interesting.)
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
jt46321,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Are you getting any white or grey smoke out of the exhaust?
I am assuming you changed the lift pump.
Also did the pump you installed the one with the almost straight arm, or did it have a 90 degree bend in it?
If you are getting fuel to the injectors, you should be getting white smoke when you crank it over.
With the block heater plugged in, that should be enough heat for it to start if it is working.
Might try removing the fuel filter and making sure it is full.
Just remember 20 seconds max cranking time, minimum two minutes cool down time before cranking again.
Starters will overheat, and then need replaced.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
Are you getting any white or grey smoke out of the exhaust?
I am assuming you changed the lift pump.
Also did the pump you installed the one with the almost straight arm, or did it have a 90 degree bend in it?
If you are getting fuel to the injectors, you should be getting white smoke when you crank it over.
With the block heater plugged in, that should be enough heat for it to start if it is working.
Might try removing the fuel filter and making sure it is full.
Just remember 20 seconds max cranking time, minimum two minutes cool down time before cranking again.
Starters will overheat, and then need replaced.
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No smoke is coming out of the exhaust and the new lift pump has a 90 degree bend. I have not checked the filter to see if it is full, but it was topped off when i installed it. I cracked a line after the lift pump and fuel went everywhere so it does work. I am getting fuel at the injectors but no smoke.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Bleed the fuel filter, see if you have any air at the Schrader valve.
Fuel at the injectors, no smoke, how fast is it cranking over?
It has to be on the verge of it starting.
How long is the wait to start light staying on?
Fuel at the injectors, no smoke, how fast is it cranking over?
It has to be on the verge of it starting.
How long is the wait to start light staying on?
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I let the truck sit for a few days because I have about had it. Went back checked fuel filter and it was topped off. block heater was plugged in overnight and the radiator was toasty warm. Started cranking very fast and bled all 8 injectors again and got fuel to all of them. Tried to start it for an hour and it just wont give that extra little kick right before it starts. I must be getting air from somewhere. I have opened the fuel system many times on this truck including an unfortunate dry filter change and It has always eventually started. At least my bicycle works.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I keep thinking about the glycerin in the filter.
I am more inclined to think some may be in the IP, and has the FSS linkage stuck.
If you had fuel at the injectors, then you should be getting smoke, probably white from unburnt fuel.
Since you are not getting smoke, I have to wonder how much fuel is actually getting to the injectors.
I think I would pull the trianguler plate off the passenger side of the IP, let the fuel drain out of the IP.
Remove that plate carefully, don't tear the rubber gasket between it and the IP housing.
Now remove and drain the fuel filter, refill it with Diesel Kleen and reinstall.
Now loosen several of the injection lines and re bleed the injection system again.
When you get fuel at the injectors, let it sit for several hours and let the Diesel Kleen clean out anything that has the linkages stuck.
Alternative fuels are fine.
But I see to many potential problems with them when the temps drop.
I am more inclined to think some may be in the IP, and has the FSS linkage stuck.
If you had fuel at the injectors, then you should be getting smoke, probably white from unburnt fuel.
Since you are not getting smoke, I have to wonder how much fuel is actually getting to the injectors.
I think I would pull the trianguler plate off the passenger side of the IP, let the fuel drain out of the IP.
Remove that plate carefully, don't tear the rubber gasket between it and the IP housing.
Now remove and drain the fuel filter, refill it with Diesel Kleen and reinstall.
Now loosen several of the injection lines and re bleed the injection system again.
When you get fuel at the injectors, let it sit for several hours and let the Diesel Kleen clean out anything that has the linkages stuck.
Alternative fuels are fine.
But I see to many potential problems with them when the temps drop.
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Thanks Dave that sounds promising.
Is there any way to directly fill the injection pump?
I will let you know how this goes in a few days, I have to go work on our deuce and a half today as it has been down for a couple weeks now.
Is there any way to directly fill the injection pump?
I will let you know how this goes in a few days, I have to go work on our deuce and a half today as it has been down for a couple weeks now.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
You can pull the top off the IP and pour it full.
But the you have to be sure the FSS linkage gets hooked back in place and the govenor linkage don't get jambed open.
If it does, when it starts you will have it running wide open with no govenor till it goes BOOM.
Not worth the extra work and headache in my book.
If I wanted to get some Diesel Kleen inside the IP, I would pull the triangular plate off the side and let the fuel drain out.
Then remove the return line fitting on top of the IP and pour the Diesel Kleen in there.
Mush less to worry about going at it that way.
But the you have to be sure the FSS linkage gets hooked back in place and the govenor linkage don't get jambed open.
If it does, when it starts you will have it running wide open with no govenor till it goes BOOM.
Not worth the extra work and headache in my book.
If I wanted to get some Diesel Kleen inside the IP, I would pull the triangular plate off the side and let the fuel drain out.
Then remove the return line fitting on top of the IP and pour the Diesel Kleen in there.
Mush less to worry about going at it that way.
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