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Epic, I read over in TDS that Rancho told a owner that the truck had to be raised 2" for this kit to work. Do you think there will be a problem with my stock truck and this setup? Also what about this notching the adjusting arm on the drag link? Can you take a picture of your passenger mounting spot in detail so I do it right?
Lex, did you get answer on this? I did reply with my opinion that I didn't think there's a problem using rhe dual stabs without a lift. There is so much clearance all the way around that there just really isn't anything for them to interfere with. As a matter of fact, I think there is something different between the 2010's and 2011'. The stabilizer install instructions say to reposition the tie rod adjustment sleeve clamps and brackets but after that was done I got to looking at them and found that step unnecessary. I've written Rancho for clarification and asked them to update their instructions. The photos in the instructions show parts in different positions than what was on my truck.
So I did do it and notched the drag link but left that part out of the video. I didn't want to perpetuate an out-dated install guide.
I ordered my Rancho dual steering stabilizers Wed night and Fed Ex dropped them on my door Saturday morning. Busy all day Saturday but was able to sneak out before church this morning and install them. Finally went for a drive tonight - found every pothole and bump I could find.
Wow what a difference...no wobble over bumps or potholes. Firmer steering - which I like and the truck should have from factory.
Of all my mods this one and the speaker upgrades are probably my least amount of money and best money spent.
Baseline for everyone:
- F350 CC FX4 Camper Package (1 up on front spring) Michelin 18" LTX/AT2
- Bilstein 5160's - reduced the rear end bounce/firmed up front end (OEM Ranchos are pathetic)
- 2" lift (increased the "bounce steer" - almost dangerous)
- Did alignment & positive castor (eliminated bounce steer - then I started to notice steering wobble)
- Installed the dual steering stabilizer Rancho RS98510 --> problem resolved!!!
The truck no handles like I want it to - "supposed to"...
Again thanks Lexustbs for ID'ing wobble and Epic for problem solving!!!
Brian
Do the new Rancho's put up with the noise better than the old ones??
My apoligy. I went to summit racing website. punched in all info.included stock height no raise. but now after looking.i see 2 different part #s, so now im not really sure what to order, then on stabilizer part #RS-98510 it listed it for a 2005/2006 so im baffled as what to order or from who. any help would be appreciated. Truck is not lifted.
My apoligy. I went to summit racing website. punched in all info.included stock height no raise. but now after looking.i see 2 different part #s, so now im not really sure what to order, then on stabilizer part #RS-98510 it listed it for a 2005/2006 so im baffled as what to order or from who. any help would be appreciated. Truck is not lifted.
I did a google search on the RS98510 and got to this site on Partsgeek. Somehow when I ordered it I got a better price???
My apoligy. I went to summit racing website. punched in all info.included stock height no raise. but now after looking.i see 2 different part #s, so now im not really sure what to order, then on stabilizer part #RS-98510 it listed it for a 2005/2006 so im baffled as what to order or from who. any help would be appreciated.
Ok then. Makes sense as to why the photos in the instructions were different than my truck I can say for certain that they work on a 2011 and you can ignore the steps of moving the tie rod adjustment sleeve clamps and bracket. Clearly they do work on multiple years.
Ok then. Makes sense as to why the photos in the instructions were different than my truck I can say for certain that they work on a 2011 and you can ignore the steps of moving the tie rod adjustment sleeve clamps and bracket.
Confirmed on my install you do not have to move the adjustment sleeve nor do you need to "file" a groove for the u-bolts on the tie-rod ends...the tie-rod ends actually have a little bit of a "block" casting chape and the u-bolts and bracket fit perfectly around this with no movement possible.
The only thing I questioned was why do Rancho instructions say the tie-rod clamps need to be tilted slightly forward??? I did tilt mine, but I don't see any potential interference. Is this some sort improved stability geometrics issue?
Confirmed on my install you do not have to move the adjustment sleeve nor do you need to "file" a groove for the u-bolts on the tie-rod ends...the tie-rod ends actually have a little bit of a "block" casting chape and the u-bolts and bracket fit perfectly around this with no movement possible.
The only thing I questioned was why do Rancho instructions say the tie-rod clamps need to be tilted slightly forward??? I did tilt mine, but I don't see any potential interference. Is this some sort improved stability geometrics issue?
Brian
I think the forward tilting was required due to the tight clearance of the model year used in the instructions. It just didn't seem right or necessary on our trucks. Now we know. I'll send another email to Rancho.
I think the forward tilting was required due to the tight clearance of the model year used in the instructions. It just didn't seem right or necessary on our trucks. Now we know. I'll send another email to Rancho.
After thinking about this for a couple of minutes, the "tilting" does provide ever so slightly longer lever arm to dampen the front wheel - assuming the wheel is "wobbling" on a fore-aft of truck vertical plane.
I'd have to get a measurement of the dampner point of connection to the tie-rod arm with the bracket in "flat" position to center of wheel versus the install of the dampner brackets tilted forward.
Brian
(of course compare this estimate with the reason Rancho gives back to Epic )
So here's the question...why isn't Ford dealing with this as a warranty or design issue?
Death Wobble Update
<HR style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #d1d1e1; COLOR: #d1d1e1" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->I had the dreaded "Death Wobble". I found a place I could reproduce the "wobble" at will. It was a manhole that was about 4 inches below road grade and I would hit with my left tire. This is where I took the Service Manager for rides.
I put my truck in the dealer's shop the first time and they replaced the front shocks and said a nut had "loosened". I'm assuming the nut was on the ball joint for the track bar. They said the front shocks were dead.
Several months later I took it back in with complaints of the front end bouncing too much. They replaced the front shocks again. On the drive home I still wasn't happy with it. I called the dealer and got the number for - THIS IS IMPORTANT, SO PAY ATTENTION - ask for the number of FORD CUSTOMER ASSITANCE and file a formal complaint. I called them and they opened a ticket on my truck. I took it to the dealer and left it for a week.
The Ford engineers came onsite and were in charge of all repairs. They replaced the front shocks with upgraded factory certified Rancho 5000s. They also replaced the track bar and ball joint, along with the steering damper.
This DID fix my problems and I am happy with my truck again.
They also tested and replaced my rear shocks, they said they were weak. This eliminated the bounce I was getting on concrete highways and was not part of my complaint, but I sure am glad they did it. I was ready to pull the trigger on a Firestone R4Tech airbag system.
Before I took it in, I talked to Steve at WC Motorsports about their track bar solution - $825.00 - parts only.
But the item of note is he said you can't run BFG All Terrain KOs on these trucks - which I am. I have standard size with 18" rims. I noticed if I ran 65lbs in the fronts it would bounce like crazy and the Death Wobble was easy to reproduce, but if I put 70-75lbs in them, no death wobble. I did report this to the Ford and their response was, you should be able to run any tire of the right size on these trucks without issue.
Now I am running my BFGs with 65lbs and have no issues.
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Makes me feel good that I didn't need the engineers to get a solution. Lol. Can't they get ahold of a GoPro? :-)
I guess over time we'll need to keep our eyes on the trackbar ball joints.
I just have a hard time spending money to fix my truck when it's under warranty.
I will say I was getting desperate and was getting ready to dump a bunch of money in it. Then my wife started nagging about the warranty and I caved. I'm glad I let Ford deal with it, now I know exactly how to deal with it when it is out of warranty.
I just have a hard time spending money to fix my truck when it's under warranty.
I will say I was getting desperate and was getting ready to dump a bunch of money in it. Then my wife started nagging about the warranty and I caved. I'm glad I let Ford deal with it, now I know exactly how to deal with it when it is out of warranty.
No problem, I was just kidding. With everyone pitching in like this, we'll all be a lot better informed when the warantees run out. Lots of folks will appreciate the combined knowledge gained here.
With everyone pitching in like this, we'll all be a lot better informed when the warantees run out. Lots of folks will appreciate the combined knowledge gained here.
Amen to that, I'd have never hooked up the Drift cam had I not seen this thread...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.