My motor rebuild/replace thread

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Aug 10, 2011 | 08:21 AM

#16

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

Ok, so my motor was probably never opened until I started on it. I plan to use whatever is required to do it right. Thanks.

Aug 10, 2011 | 08:49 AM

#17

megawatt00

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From: Rochdale MA

I am still in amazement from when you sent me the pics last night. As much as this is not good for you it is a testamant of the toughness of the 7.3 to keep running!

Aug 10, 2011 | 06:39 PM

#18

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

Checked ring gap on a used top ring and it was 0.018 gap. Still within spec. My cousin came over with bore gauge and found cylinders are 0.001 out of round.

Aug 14, 2011 | 08:01 AM

#19

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

Anybody have any ideas how/why a piston skirt would/can break?

Aug 14, 2011 | 03:59 PM

#20

94 smokin stroker

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Joined: Jun 2010

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From: Salisbury NC

Hey jt371 here is a thread that should help you out tons if you cant find what you need in it ask pm cory nobody i would trust more on knowing the tolerances and what is ok to do https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tor-build.html

Aug 14, 2011 | 04:08 PM

#21

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

Thanks. I did finish reading that thread the other day. I found a service manual for the 7.3 online. I downloaded it. It has all the torque specs and tolerances.

Aug 14, 2011 | 04:22 PM

#22

ChunderDownUnder

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Joined: Apr 2009

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From: Man Cave

There is a great list of PDF manuals here
Workshop Manuals - 1999 SD 250-550 - PowerStrokeNation
I think its page on the engine pdf that has all your measurement specs.
Those bearings look fine compared to mine
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-build-2.html

Aug 14, 2011 | 04:46 PM

#23

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

That is the manual I downloaded and yes it does have the specs. Thanks for the list of the other manuals. Ill download them tomorrow when I get to a computer.

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Aug 15, 2011 | 08:06 AM

#24

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

Well spent most of yesterday cleaning some parts. After removing the engine I found that my oil pan had quite a bit of rust on it. So I cleaned, primed and painted it. Then I deceided to paint a couple other things.

Attached Images

Aug 15, 2011 | 08:28 AM

#25

bulla

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Joined: Jun 2010

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From: Louisiana

Nice! I like following these rebuild threads. Soon enough I'll feel confident enough to tackle my own!

Aug 15, 2011 | 04:12 PM

#26

garsm

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Joined: Dec 2010

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just pulled me engine yestereday too due to low compression, im going out now to tear the internals down. ARe you planning on doing a rebuild kit? And what upgrades are you doing while the engine is out?

Aug 15, 2011 | 04:19 PM

#27

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

I'm planning on doing a OEM rebuild kit. My cylinders checked out so no need to bore it. I'm going to install the bellowed up-pipes. Also going to rebuild the EBPV, turbo and install WW. I would like to install head studs but I have to draw the line somewhere, plus they can be installed later easily.

Aug 15, 2011 | 04:37 PM

#28

Shake-N-Bake

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Joined: Sep 2003

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From: Mesa AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt371

Look what I found in the oil pickup. That is a chunk if piston. There was smaller pieces that fell out after I removed the pickup. Also a picture of what I found in the oil pan, a big piece of the piston. Also the crank bearings. They are in order. So I can see why my lead was high, missing some from the front bearing.

How high was the lead in your last sample? Did you post the lab report in another thread? Mostly curious to see how the reports looks considering the issues you actually discovered during the tear down.

Aug 15, 2011 | 04:50 PM

#29

jt371

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From: Upstate NY

Between my last two samples it went from 3 to 8ppm.

Aug 15, 2011 | 05:03 PM

#30

Shake-N-Bake

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From: Mesa AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt371

Between my last two samples it went from 3 to 8ppm.

Wow, that is surprising. A delta of 5 ppm is practically nothing. I was expecting you to say the lead was in the 80-200 ppm range.

Are all your piston cooling jets in place?

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