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Funny how we talked about u-joints I had to remove a u-joint from a drive shaft in my off road buggy to repair a drive shaft I twisted. I had to cut off the twisted tube and weld on a new tube. The tube had twisted off till it snapped in two. To much HP dropping off a ledge on the rear end. Snap crackle and pop was the sound. Oh the joy of having fun. Good thing I can do these repairs I'd be broke.
It was the u-joint. One side of it was all dried out and rusty. Won't neglect to grease them anymore. Ended only replacing the u-joint. Didn't feel like replacing the ball joints at this time and they seemed fine. Besides, it doesn't take long to get to them.
My 0.02: I don't think a guy needs to replace the seals everytime. I was able to get everything apart and the seals were all reusable. I used the new ones since I had them but the old ones definitely could have been reused. This is why I didn't replace the ball joints right now.
glad you got your issue taken care of! yea its just a good idea to check the ball joints and yea I wouldnt replace them unless they needed it anyways. also its just good to get the seals just as a precaution if the tear....
The spicer 3x's are the non greasable. I only install 4x's,,, Those are the greasable ones. We normally have them in stock. NOBODY in KC has 4x's in stock,,, except us!!! Lol
The spicer 3x's are the non greasable. I only install 4x's,,, Those are the greasable ones. We normally have them in stock. NOBODY in KC has 4x's in stock,,, except us!!! Lol
Saved by the bell. Thanks. Hadn't ordered yet. Found that the local jobber has Moog u joints in stock, and those are also greasable. I am also replacing the hub assemblies (Moog).
Still trying to hunt down part numbers for seals I will need.
I took a pic so you would know they do exist,,, contrary to what EVERY parts store might tell you. If you want a set,, you can call the shop n we can get a set out to you. However,, we are not an online store,, we are a shop with parts in stock,,, I gotta eat so you can get better prices elsewhere. Iirc they're gonna be about $75 each. I don't even try and compete with online sales. Lots of places sell parts and make pennys.
Got the bearing part numbers, the seals are what I keep asking about.
I didn't have time to read the entire ball joint thread, maybe someone listed them in the 30+ pages of replies. Or maybe they are in the first post and I overlooked them. I had to go to work to earn money to pay for this repair. Hope someone has easier access to those seal part numbers.
Hit the circlip with a cold chisel straight down on the flat portion. It should pop loose.
I normally just cut the cross out with a cutting torch then tap the caps inward easily with a ball peen hammer.