hi all,

i've had some time to think….. and i thought of doing a u-joint replacement for the front axle by the wheels. i've never done one before so i figured i'd ask around those who have done it and could offer tips and advice on how not to screw up.

do i need to remove anything from the front, besides the u-joint by the wheel? how do i remove it? any torque settings? any special tools?

oh and would Moog u-joints be a good replacement? maybe someone can recommend a better replacement than Moog? what is the part number for the Moog one if it's good?

thanks again.

 

Spicer for quality u-joints.

You have to remove the spindle to remove the axle shafts.

Josh

 

josh, is tat for the front? couldn't i just replace the u-joints for the left and right wheels right there? sorry i'm a little lost here. lol.

 

Spicer sounds good. just gotta find them now. any leads on part numbers? thanks.

 

Hi Dom,

I got all my parts from these guys ... Drivetrain America Auto Parts For Sale Rear Differential Spicer Driveline Ring Pinions

Best prices I could find. Also, I called on the phone and got a better price on shipping than the default values you get when you go through the website shopping cart.

Mine is a 2003 so I don't want to mix you up with my part numbers just in case.

 

You mean drive-out the u-joints right there at the axle housing?

Do it!

Normally have to pull:

Wheel
Caliper with brackets
Rotors
Hubs
Pry out axle


Of course the dually front has the extra step of the lug adaptor



Josh

 

Josh

 

thanks for the video, josh. looks straightforward, but man oh man, i can see why y'all get tat axle out of there. gotta drive tat thing out. what a pain.

i just figured to go ahead and do the u-joints since i'll be tearing into the front axle to find tat leak. i have a leak coming out of the driver side axle dust seal. it's only obvious when i engage 4wd, which i haven't done so for a while. lol.

i'm just guessing there's an inner seal by the side of the pumpkin? and it's on the axle spline? lol. oh damn.

thanks guys.

 

Lots of Cussing going on Dom LOL

 

Yes Benny. Lol. I haven't started work yet but I'm already cussing. Even in my sleep. Lmao!

Sent from my iPhone using IB AutoGroup

 

use spicer only u joints.. the seals on there u joints are far better then any others out there.. part number should be SPL55-3X..

like others have said you have to remove the axles from the front end..also when you get the old ones out take a flat file and run it across the axle ears where the snap rings go to clean up and burs...

 

I give the guy credit for even finding the joints with all of that corrosion. Guess I'm spoiled living in Ca. A lot of things here I don't like but the weather isn't one of them. Of course I guess all states have politicians.

 

thanks gregory. tat part number will help. i'll need 2. i guess i'll have to do it nice and slowly so as not to tear into the dust seals.

guys, how would i know to replace tat rear seal on the inside of the hub?

thanks!

 

the seal on the back side of the hub is the vacuum seal.. wouldn't hurt to replace at this time but it takes a special tool made by otc you can install the seal without the tool but makes it a real bear to install without seal..

if you find a local spicer dealer in town they should also be able to get you the seals along with the u joints.. ford will have the seals but they are real proud of it and its just a spicer seal in a ford bag..

amazon has the tool if you were closer I would let you borrow the tool.. if you need help with the seal or u joint and or tool let me know...

 

thanks greg! much appreciated. here's the seal i was talking about. u mean there's another seal right in the back of the hub? i'm talking about from the outside looking into the wheel. tat kind of direction. remove wheel, caliper mount, rotor, auto locking hubs, snap ring, wheel hub, then axle spline. am i missing something?

here's a pic of tat axle seal. how many seals am i missing?

http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/ima...edium/4226.jpg

thanks.