Front Hub Help
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From: Augusta, GA
Front Hub Help
This week, while replacing the wheel studs on the front hub of my '76 4x4, I could not get the studs to seat properly. It seems as though the hub is trashed and needs replacing. The problem I'm having is that in trying to find new hubs online (searching for locking hub) I am only coming up with pages for the mechanical portion that one turns to lock in the front end.
Is there a different term for the piece that the wheel actually mounts to?
Is there a different term for the piece that the wheel actually mounts to?
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From: shamokin pa
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From: Suburbs of Chicago
Is the hub actually trashed or just where the wheel studs come through? If the wheel studs spin a little, try putting a little booger in there with a welder. If you don't have a welder, knurl out the inside of the wheel stud hole in the hub with a punch to make em stick.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 211
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From: Augusta, GA
Is the hub actually trashed or just where the wheel studs come through? If the wheel studs spin a little, try putting a little booger in there with a welder. If you don't have a welder, knurl out the inside of the wheel stud hole in the hub with a punch to make em stick.
You think it will be OK?
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From: Suburbs of Chicago
I think it'll be okay. Personally I used JB Weld and that shtuff works better than... I don't know what but it'll work better than anything else me or you can think of! It stands up to the heat on the intake manifold (choke tube on my 2150) so it'll handle the heat of a hub and drum/rotor.
I'm a big backer of JB weld for the poor man without a welder
or just the man in a quick pinch
I'm a big backer of JB weld for the poor man without a welder
or just the man in a quick pinch
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,098
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From: shamokin pa
I think it'll be okay. Personally I used JB Weld and that shtuff works better than... I don't know what but it'll work better than anything else me or you can think of! It stands up to the heat on the intake manifold (choke tube on my 2150) so it'll handle the heat of a hub and drum/rotor.
I'm a big backer of JB weld for the poor man without a welder or just the man in a quick pinch
I'm a big backer of JB weld for the poor man without a welder
or just the man in a quick pinchi never had luck with jb weld, i had a 4 wheeler once and my clutch handle snapped and jb weld didnt fix it =/ haha
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
On my '92 T-bird I had a leak that kept reoccurring at the back of the AC compressor where the manifold bolts on. When not leaking, it worked great but then it would leak on a hot day. I had tried new O rings. Problem was that sometime in the past before I bought the car, someone had broken out a small part of the aluminum wall around the O ring. It's a place where the casting was thin. J B quick weld would work short term putting in place, but not long.
I pulled the manifold off, cut a piece of aluminum shim stock the width of the Oring groove's depth, about 1/2" long. Took a new O ring and just barely shaved it on the outside. Slipped the O-ring and shim stock in place, a new O ring beside it, put the manifold back on and cleaned the outer side good removing all old J B Weld. Applied new regular slow set J B Weld which has a higher temp rating, let harden overnight, vacume, then new R-134a, and that was several years ago. She's fixed now.
J B Weld is good stuff.
I pulled the manifold off, cut a piece of aluminum shim stock the width of the Oring groove's depth, about 1/2" long. Took a new O ring and just barely shaved it on the outside. Slipped the O-ring and shim stock in place, a new O ring beside it, put the manifold back on and cleaned the outer side good removing all old J B Weld. Applied new regular slow set J B Weld which has a higher temp rating, let harden overnight, vacume, then new R-134a, and that was several years ago. She's fixed now.
J B Weld is good stuff.
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