Before I owned my truck, it was wrecked and had the engine replaced. My dad is telling me that that timing is off, due to lack of power and low gas mileage. When I turn the distributer cap to the right, where the timing should be, the engine dies. Have any clue what's going on there, or what I should do?

 

Did you remove the SPOUT plug before trying to set the base timing?

It should be located near the Ignition Control Module (ICM):

Courtesy of subford

 

Hmm, not sure. Dad was the one actually doing it while I was away. I'll try that and post an update afterward, but I'm pretty sure he did. Is the 95 model supposed to have two timing points? Because someone from an automotive shop said it's missing the one I'm supposed to time it to.

 

I am not aware if the 300-I6 has two pointers. I know the V8s do not.

 

Yeah, mine only has one down on the passenger side. He said something about bolting a piece on that has the other pointers, but I've not seen one on another I-6 or know what it's called for that matter. He said I needed to time it to the one that isn't there on my vehicle.

 

Nothing like that mentioned in my 1995 Ford Service Manual

Procedure

1. Place transmission in PARK or NEUTRAL, A/C and heater in OFF position.

2. Connect an inductive timing light, Rotunda 059-00006 or equivalent.

3. Disconnect the single wire in-line SPOUT connector or remove the shorting bar from the double wire SPOUT connector

4. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temperature. To set timing correctly, a remote starter should not be used. Use the ignition key only to start the vehicle. Disconnecting the start wire at the starter relay will cause ICM to revert to start mode timing after the vehicle is started. Reconnecting the start wire after the vehicle is running will not correct the timing.

5. With engine at timing rpm if specified, check/adjust initial timing to specification.

6. Reconnect single wire in-line SPOUT connector or reinstall the shorting bar on the double wire SPOUT connector. Check timing advance while varying engine speed to verify distributor is advancing beyond the initial setting. If it is not, refer to Section 2A, Quick Test.

7. Remove test instruments.

 

I'll try it, and let you know what's up.

 

Could be you're looking at the wrong timing mark.

The back of the damper has a notch in it which is not the timing mark.
The timing mark is a scribed mark that can be very hard to see.

Some people use sand paper on the damper to get the rust
off of it which makes it easier to find the timing mark. Once you find the
mark use white paint on it so it can easily be seen.

The first picture shows the mark.
The second picture shows the notch.

The third picture shows the notch and the scribed mark.
Looking from the back side of the damper, the scribed mark is about
7 1/4 inches in the ccw direction from the notch.

The timing numbers are on a saw tooth shaped piece of metal that bolts
to the timing cover and is on the passenger side of the timing cover.

The timing cover also has timing marks engraved in the timing cover
on the driver side. These timing marks are not used for a fuel injected engine.

The fourth picture shows the timing numbers on the sawtooth shaped
piece of metal.

 

Excellent info....with pics!

 

Agreed. Thanks, I'll try that.