Radiator core support / front frame mount replacement
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Willow Grove, PA
Radiator core support / front frame mount replacement
I'm not sure how to change out the front cab mounts / radiator core support mounts on an '86 F150 - and I need them done to pass inspection. If I understand correctly, there is a bolt & washer "unit" that presses the rubber mount against the rad support & the accompanying housing on the frame? If that is correct, with the mount is sandwiched between, then I should be able to brace the body panels, et. al, up when the mounts are removed.
It looks like the main cab mounts are pressed into a cutout; are the radiator core supports also press-fit? If so then I'd imagine they're gonna be pretttttttty unfriendly to press out
It looks like the main cab mounts are pressed into a cutout; are the radiator core supports also press-fit? If so then I'd imagine they're gonna be pretttttttty unfriendly to press out
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 8,786
Likes: 28
From: Northern California
A: The radiator support bushings are held in place by bolts.
The bushing is threaded, and has a hexagon shape that fits into a symetrical hexagon shape in the metal support bracket on the frame. If the hexagon shape is rusted away, you should replace the metal brackets as well.
They are not pressed in, but can be a bear to remove. It's better to remove the grille, and other hardware and unbolt and remove the radiator support to get at them.
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B: Front cab mounts: The bolts are accessed by the floor cover plates inside the cab. You will have to remove or move out of the way, the floor covering to access the cover plates.
C: Rear cab mount bolts are behind the seat and are covered and protected with circular rubber caps.
When you get the new mounts, spray them with silicone lubricant. This will help protect them from cracking and deteriorating in the future.
The bushing is threaded, and has a hexagon shape that fits into a symetrical hexagon shape in the metal support bracket on the frame. If the hexagon shape is rusted away, you should replace the metal brackets as well.
They are not pressed in, but can be a bear to remove. It's better to remove the grille, and other hardware and unbolt and remove the radiator support to get at them.
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B: Front cab mounts: The bolts are accessed by the floor cover plates inside the cab. You will have to remove or move out of the way, the floor covering to access the cover plates.
C: Rear cab mount bolts are behind the seat and are covered and protected with circular rubber caps.
When you get the new mounts, spray them with silicone lubricant. This will help protect them from cracking and deteriorating in the future.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 2,935
Likes: 34
From: Arcadia, Fla
The radiator mounting bolts will most likely be all rusted up. I had to cut mine out with a reciprocating saw and grinder. Not a fun job with burning rubber mounts. I wished I had a torch to burn the nuts off.
Best thing to do is spray all mounts down with PB blaster or equ and let it soak in.
As for the cab mounts, best to take out the seat and flooring for access. Once you have all mounting bolts loose, use a jack to jack up one side of the cab with the mounting bolts loose on the oppisite side for the cab don't slide off the frame. Put your new cab mounts in and loosley put the new bolts in, and repeat for the other side.
Best thing to do is spray all mounts down with PB blaster or equ and let it soak in.
As for the cab mounts, best to take out the seat and flooring for access. Once you have all mounting bolts loose, use a jack to jack up one side of the cab with the mounting bolts loose on the oppisite side for the cab don't slide off the frame. Put your new cab mounts in and loosley put the new bolts in, and repeat for the other side.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Willow Grove, PA
Appreciation
Thanks guys, this gives me a better idea what I'm in for. The kit I bought consists of mounts for the rad support as well as the front cab mounts, but I don't think the rear cab mounts need anything. If I understand correctly, the inspection station requires me to replace the rad mounts, not the front cab mounts. Hopefully this process will go smoothly 
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 133
Likes: 1
From: TX
I did the same thing last year, and these guys are right, cut em out and go back with grade 8 bolts and poly for bushings. My girl rides a thousand times better!! Well worth the sweat and stench of old rubber stink.
I took it one step further tho and did the entire truck after I did the cab & rad mounts. I personally think the rear leaf springs & shackels were harder than the cab mounts.
Good luck bro
And use loctite red!!!
I took it one step further tho and did the entire truck after I did the cab & rad mounts. I personally think the rear leaf springs & shackels were harder than the cab mounts.
Good luck bro
And use loctite red!!!
Last edited by 85_Blue; Jun 1, 2011 at 05:49 PM. Reason: more info
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Willow Grove, PA
The nut from inside the engine bay comes off easily; the bottom bolt head is being a ... block head. Heh, heh, OH MAN. Yesterday I had some time available to assess the situation better, hit stuff with PB - oh, and the mount kit I got in the mail? It DOES have all the mounts. They were stacked on top of each other, as they would be when installed on the vehicle ... that explains the "missing parts." D'oh.
Now armed with more understanding, onward ho. I've already did the ball joints, front shocks, and tie rods & drag link setup last week; why stop when it's only a couple of rad. support mounts?
Now armed with more understanding, onward ho. I've already did the ball joints, front shocks, and tie rods & drag link setup last week; why stop when it's only a couple of rad. support mounts?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 110
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From: Willow Grove, PA
The bracket that bolts on to the frame is really rusted on the passenger side, so I might have to replace that
Know what it's called or where I can get it? Can I just grind away the rust and brace around the hole with washers? No one will know once the mount assemblies are in place, heheheheheh ....Also, look at the new mounts in the last photo of the passenger side set - they are smaller than what's on the truck, but they should work cause I'm pretty sure I bought the right mount kit
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Willow Grove, PA
Well, the hole in the center of the rad. core support bracket is rusted away to the point where the new mount is just barely larger than the diameter of the hole. The passenger side is even worse - that, coupled with these replacement mounts being smaller in diameter than the ones I removed, leads me to either needing to put some kind of spacer plate / washer on these existing brackets, or to replace the brackets for a stupid $50!!
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Willow Grove, PA
success
Truck passed inspection, which is celebrated with an exhaust system exiting after the second cat Sounds real cool, not as loud as I expected.
I wound up inverting the stock mount design; instead of sandwiching the frame brackets with an upper and lower rubber mount, I put the mounts around the radiator support framing. That way, the drivers' side radiator support mount bracket - which was considerably rusted away - could be straddled with washers, thus removing the danger of the rubber mount pulling through. The passenger side had to be removed, which was fun for someone drilling out rivets the first time
I had a piece of sheetmetal welded on top, then I drilled a hole through the new metal for the bolt to pass through.
Oh, and it rides better
Sounds real cool, not as loud as I expected.I wound up inverting the stock mount design; instead of sandwiching the frame brackets with an upper and lower rubber mount, I put the mounts around the radiator support framing. That way, the drivers' side radiator support mount bracket - which was considerably rusted away - could be straddled with washers, thus removing the danger of the rubber mount pulling through. The passenger side had to be removed, which was fun for someone drilling out rivets the first time
I had a piece of sheetmetal welded on top, then I drilled a hole through the new metal for the bolt to pass through.Oh, and it rides better
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