hydro clutch help please
Summit Racing 14-0013 - Summit Racing® Master Cylinder and Pedal Pro Packs - Overview - SummitRacing.com
As far as hooking up the MC goes it will mount inboard of the brake master just like the late model trucks have it. You can use the same lever that the that the mecanical linkage used to hook to but it will need to be rotated so that it swings fore and aft instead of up and down. I accomplished this by cutting the weld where the shaft attaches to the pedal and rotating it to the position I wanted. When I mock it up and get everything it the final position I will weld it back together.
Hese's where I cut the weld
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Here's how I positioned the lever. I haven't actually installed the MC yet but this seems to be about the right spot. It also seems to have the right amount of stroke for the stock MC.
<a href="http://s742.photobucket.com/albums/xx65/Fordworth/?action=view&current=IMG_20110525_161140.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx65/Fordworth/IMG_20110525_161140.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
I'll get more pics later that will help to explain the process better, but it's really pretty easy.
As far as hooking up the MC goes it will mount inboard of the brake master just like the late model trucks have it. You can use the same lever that the that the mecanical linkage used to hook to but it will need to be rotated so that it swings fore and aft instead of up and down. I accomplished this by cutting the weld where the shaft attaches to the pedal and rotating it to the position I wanted. When I mock it up and get everything it the final position I will weld it back together.
Hese's where I cut the weld

Here's how I positioned the lever. I haven't actually installed the MC yet but this seems to be about the right spot. It also seems to have the right amount of stroke for the stock MC.

I'll get more pics later that will help to explain the process better, but it's really pretty easy.
Here's why I think it's best to stick with the factory hydraulic components. They're already designed to work with the trans and clutch and replacement parts are easy to come by at the local parts house. Here's what the setup from a 1990 F350 witha 7.2/ZF5 combo looks like.
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Here are the hose ends that slip into the master and slave respectively. Good lock trying to match this stuff with aftermarket parts.
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The master is going to end up in this area, though closer to the rubber grommet than my black circle. Unfortunately it will be a couple inches away from the lever on the pedal in order to clear the vacuum booster so I will have to make a spacer where the rod attaches to the lever. I haven't gotten to that yet. Another option is to convert to hydroboost at the same time to save space.
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As far as the pedal install goes, this is what the assembly looks like disasembled.
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The lever and shaft aren't splined like the later models which is why you have to cut the weld and rotate the shaft like I showed earlier. This is a good time to replace the shaft bushings you see in the right of the pics.
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Here's what it will look like under the dash after installation. The brake pedal is just hanging loose right now since the clutch pedal has been in and out several times and will be several more I'm sure. My satalite radio tuner is going to have to find a new home. Any ideas?
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Hey 78 PEB, do you know of any good threads on the hydro boost conversion?
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I found the hydroboost thread you posted in recently. I think I'm going to do as part of my project. The local self serve wrecker is having their 50% sale this weekend so that puts them in line with the prices the rest of you guys pay in real America (as opposed to here in comunistfornia).
The bushings came from Dennis Carpenter. I think they were $1 each.
Hijack complete.








