On the IDM ,not for sure . A stuck IPR can cause the no start also ,,

Buzz test will tell if there are codes stored in it . As was said ,a swap is an easy test if you have one(spare IDM) to try...

 

Also , there are 4 small relays in the power distribution box under the hood . One is for the horn, use that location to test the rest of the relays (If the horn works with each one they are good)...

 

Relays all worked.
IPR plug had 12V KOEO

I will see what I can do about an IDM, I do have friends but none of them have a PSD.

 

i missed this post for some reason.

This will have to wait till Monday. I will get My mechanic back out with the scanner to check the DC% and pressures while cranking.
Thanks

 

If you can do a buzz test the IDM should be good.

 

also checked the fuel pressure and it read about 45 psi with a cheap tire pressure gauge.

 

If the IPR is working ,you can crack open one of the lines to the heads while someone cranks it , oil should spray out ,not drip. If there is high pressure there & no start , it may be the IDM .
I suspect the IPR is stuck open . (It may need hittin with a hammer )

 

I will crack open a line and see if there is pressure.

That is funny, I actually tapped on the IPR with a screwdriver. Maybe I just need a bigger hammer.
Thanks Rick.

 

Make sure you don't hit the magnet

 

My '96 had a wire to the inj. short out against push rod-The mechanic that did glow plugs may not have pushed them out of the way, I dunno- and back feed through the system and fried the GPR and the first modded IDM I had. With someone cycling the key I watched smoke coming off my GPR - WAY-after the initial 2 min. were over. Fixed fried wires, changed GPR and 120v IDM (till I switched it later) and she fired up. I got lucky on the IDM at parts yard and bought for $20.00. FTE is the most important diesel tool in my opinion.

 

I cracked open a line then had someone crank the engine and oil poured out after a couple seconds of cranking. it definitely didn't spray out.
I am not sure if did it correctly though, am I supposed to have someone crank the engine and then crack the line open or is it ok to just crack the line first and then crank?

 

Instead of having a mechanic come out to check icp while cranking you can put a hydraulic guage in the icp port and manually check pressure while cranking. You need about 450psi to fire the injectors

 

Rick I think you called this one.
Buzz test pass
Rpm179
Koeo icp% 15%
cranking
icp 50%
icp pressure 190
From what I read, if the pressure is in the 180-250 the ipr is stuck open
Low pressure in the 60 psi range, injectors are leaking
Does everyone feel the same, pull the fuel bowl and change the ipr?
I need to pull the fuel bowl anyway and change the orings since I have been putting it off

 

Well the truck is fixed, 5 Months later....
After my last post I got the word my company was closing both facilities in Washington and moving us to Utah.
So I took the truck to a local high performance shop to finish the work because I no longer had the time to work on it.
They were led down the same path based on the code "IPR circuit Fault". They changed the HPOP which gave me another 10PSI but still not the 500psi I needed. They also did an injector swap, still didnt solve the problem so they re-o-ringed mine and put them back in.
The guys were stumped and tried pulling the connector for the CPS and it didnt throw any codes which lead them to believe it was the computer.
They got an old computer from someone last week and plugged it in and it started right up.
After 5 months I will finally have my truck back now that winter is hitting in Utah!
Lesson Learned: 1. jump IPR straight to battery if it starts its the computer, if not its something else (got this from another mechanic while trying to figure out what to do 2 states away), 2. have a spare computer sitting in the garage for trouble shooting.

Anyway, thanks everyone that helped trouble shoot the problem.

Scott