I went with the 8 lug hub upgrade, 16” wheels, G rated Sailuns and 7,000lb axles (up from factory 5200lb axles) on our TT. Our trailer scales at 12,000 to 13,000lbs depending on water load and toys on the rear rack. To the best of my knowledge I’m the only one here that has made these TT upgrades, hopefully if there are others they will chime in also. I did mine in stages, hubs, wheels tires first then 2 years later the rear axle bent so we replaced both axles with the heavier units and matching springs, already had the heavy duty shackle kit with wet bolts installed earlier, of course due to the bad axle I had to buy 2 new Sailuns too. Soon I’ll be replacing the 2 7 year old original Sailuns that have about 60/65 K miles on them as they are getting thin.

How much does your TT scale at?
What were the tires that failed? Build date? Inflation pressure? Load range? Brand? How fast do you tow, max?

 

I will actually be upgrading my axle as well, and already have the wet bolt kit. I can only upgrade to the next weight increment, which is 6100 I think, instead of the 7300 because that will require a larger rim and tire. Not enough room in the fender well. I decided to order the new axle with the leafs on top of the axle instead of underneath like I have now, this will give me 3" of lift.

 

My TT is a 2017 Rockwood 8311WS and 'the sticker' says it has a GVWR of 8,955 lbs. When I weighed it unpacked (i.e., no food or clothes onboard) it scaled at 8,920 lbs. The previous owner installed a second A/C unit in the front bedroom, which adds weight, and I'm sure the Hensley Arrow adds 150 lbs, so we don't have much packing margin left.

The tires were 2017 date coded Castle Rock ST 225/75 R15 with only a D load rating. I had them filled at 65 psi. I drive 65 mph on the freeway, even when its posted 70 mph. Life is just way easier in the slow lane. I knew I was playing with fire using the original tires, but I was hoping to just get through the summer on them. I'm glad it blew this weekend because we have a long trip planned starting next weekend. The new tires are Carlilse E rated and filled to 80 psi.

My other reason for exploring an upgrade is the fact that upon inspection of my wheels, they are stamped to be rated to 2,150 lbs each. Thats only 8,600 lbs total. Furthermore, the axle stickers say that they are rated for 4,000 each. That's only 8,000 lbs total. Yeah, the tongue gets some of that weight, but I would have expected a bit more margin for a TT with a GVWR of 8,955 lbs.

I don't like it. I want a lot more margin.

 

That’s pretty much the industry standard to under size the tires, springs and axles vs the total TT weight, they feel it’s OK since the hitch is carrying about 15% or so. I agree with you, more capacity is better.

 

I upgraded my shackles and equalizers, adding wet bolts and supports that run between the hangers under the belly. I do not have enough room between my wheels to upgrade axles or larger wheels.

 

Very nice setup! Looks like you're all set up to get out on the road and have some fun. (or get on the water and have some fun Installing that 250A alt has to have made a big difference. Upgrading the alt on PowerStroke is a smart move on a daily driver, let alone a rig that has additional draw demands. Have you noticed longer battery life and better voltage levels?
Ever heard of the RAS system? FICMRepair.com\USA Diesel sells them. It's a pretty cool setup; goes on the leaf springs and converts them into a "mechanically active" suspension setup. Makes it so you can adjust to your load and level your ride to improve stability/handling (reduces sway and helps with traction). I know a lady that installed one on their tow rig for the sole purpose of towing a camper and she says they absolutely love it.

 

Welcome to the EX forum!
Which rig are you commenting on, there are several really nice setups here in the big wagon crowd?
Yes, the RAS is fairly well known here, a few members are using it and are happy. Of course there are also air bags that provide very similar benefits are even more easily adjustable.
FICMRepair is also pretty well known and respected around here.

 

Last weekend we did the final TT trip for the year to Carter Caves State Park in Kentucky. Beautiful park! Today I winterized the trailer. Sad day. We used it a lot this first year of owning it and are already planning next year's trips since we now know that reservations must be done 6 months in advance for most state/national parks or else you are at the mercy of jumping on other people's cancellations.

Now that the trailer is ready to go into hibernation, I'm looking for any real world advice/suggestions on a decent quality travel trailer cover for winter storage. Prices seem to range all over the place and its hard to get an honest review off a lot of websites nowadays. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
4Kids

 

Was hoping someone would jump in, as I have the same questions.

I was told by an experienced Class C owner that he's not a fan. Said his first RV got a winter cover and it's a "PITA to get it on and off and I don't think it was worth it." He said he keeps the vents with Max Air covers open, uses DampRid inside (goes through four tubs each winter), and just ensures his roof has no leaks.

I don't think my roof leaks (32' travel trailer) but I do get some decent snows here in CT and I was hoping it would be easier to clean the roof with a cover. He said it realy does not help much.

But at around $400, it's still kinda attractive...I'm undecided. - GA

 

We have had the ADCO Expedition TT cover since our TT was new in ‘13. We did not use the cover two of those years but otherwise it has been on from late November through at least March or April every year besides those two. I have had to patch up a couple of spots with duct tape on the inside where little pokey bits have worn through the cover but otherwise it has held up very well here in SE PA where do see some Winter winds and snow. Using the cover does keep the camper much cleaner and it saves a few months worth of UV damage and fading while it’s on. And it should help to protect the factory roof and extend its life, which in turn extends the TTs life as roof leaks are typically the first step towards a campers demise. We have all read about folks having them torn up by winds, it is very important when using the cover to use the included straps to get it as tightened down as possible to reduce the amount of movement from the wind. That movement is what will cause wear and failures over time.
We are hoping to be in the market for a new fiver next year and if the ADCO Expedition cover is still available in whatever size we will need I would buy a new one for it without question, very happy with ours.

 

My 2 cents on RV protection.

First trailer bought new and it sat outside uncovered like 98% of it's brethren. Life happened and we got busy with other stuff for a season or 2, the roof started leaking unbeknownst to me (AKA neglect). Then you don't even want to use it and after a couple more years of it sitting around I had quite the project on that, replaced at least half the walls and 1/3 of the celing. Value plummeted of course, but at least we were back camping. Next camper was bought used and we covered it with a large heavy duty tarp in the winters. I had no issues with moisture or mold despite the fact that everybody who sells a breathable cover swears you will rot the camper overnight if it's covered with a tarp. Downsides to that is you can't get in the door while covered, it's a PITA to install, it will rub somewhere, and you will get leaks in the tarp at some point. Plus side it was under $100. (OK, it's been a few years!!!) Then there was my grandparents trailer out in New Mexico. They had it parked under a carport type structure. (wood frame & shingles) Out there, the sun is merciless and it will cook any RV left outside. They eventually passed away and the RV came to me. It was in amazing condition both inside and out at over 20 years old. Dry air sitting in the shade, perfect combo like a time capsule. Seems to be a pattern here.....

We wanted to buy a new or nearly new trailer, but couldn't bear to just leave it outside in the elements. So we decided to build a building to house the camper, and just a little extra for my shenanigans. 40X44, the camper gets 1 bay and I get the other 2. Obviously, that solution isn't for everybody!! Plus side is that our now 10 year old trailer looks brand new aside from the road chips on the nose from putting a few miles on it.

So for a more realistic solution, I highly recommend a carport type structure. Even that sounds pricey on the surface, but I am convinced it will pay for itself. The prices for RV's are astronomical to an old guy like me. A carport can be had for well under 10K, probably around 5 if you can do most of it yourself. It is the easiest solution to use. Park the trailer under it and walk in the house. It won't care if you buy a different RV. (unless you go big upsizing! ) If you quit RVing, the carport still has value.

Pay for it self?? This guy is nuts..... OK, let's take a typical $30,000 mid level trailer. 1 is parked outside, 1 is parked under a carport. Exactly 1 month beyond warranty, both trailers develop cracks in the roof sealer. Trailer 1 starts admitting water inside immediately. Not enough to notice at first, but one day it's .... hmmmmmm seems musty in here, ah let me grab the foil I came in here after, open a window a crack and you forget about it. Trailer 2 is just sitting there dry under the roof. Then one day months later both trailers go camping in a downpour. Crap, the ceiling is dripping! Trailer 1 has been leaking for months and when you start poking around, you realize 6 feet of the wall is now mushy and maybe the fiberglass is starting to bubble up near the roof. Trailer 2 is the first time water got in, no real harm yet. How much you think that trailer with the mushy wall and de-laminating fiberglass is now worth? I would bet 98% of RV's meet their end because they start leaking. It's not if, it's when.

 

Good inputs, thanks! Yes, my longer term plan is to add onto my pole barn or build a second pole barn to park it inside. However, that's a couple years out so I'm looking for stop-gap solutions. I'll check out the ADCO covers.

 

Southbound and down. Heading towards Gulf Shores AL today, overnighting tonight at a Love's RV camping site. We have done Christmas trips but never have traveled on Christmas Day, I hope getting through Atlanta will not be too much of a pain.

 

I wish you and your family a great experience!

I actually *like* traveling on Christmas Day, especially from the Northeast (we're from CT). The traffic is always light (only t9ime I've ever taken the travel trailer across the George Washington Bridge and through DC) and most of the time the other drivers' stress levels are lower.

We drove to Opelousas LA starting Thursday, and it was madness for all three days (though the weather was nice for the whole trip). I'm glad our family is sitting here safe at my mom's place, hooked up and relaxing this wonderful morning.

 

Atlanta is not fun in the rain in the dark, made it to our overnight stop. Tomorrow we will be at Gulf State Park.