when i replaced my injectors in my truck it took forever to start. it finally started and i test drove it. went great! pulled it back in the shop and killed it. went out about 5 hours later and same thing took forever to start. bet there is still air in the system. if not that then go for the ipr.

 

Yeah man, I just can't win.

I'll see how it goes tomorrow, going to work and leaving. If I don't have any problems I might just leave it alone.

 

Not that it matters but Yeah!!! I spent around $30 on a 36mm Craftsman, 1/2" drive, 6 point, deep well, impact socket (on sale a couple years back). Looks like it's a $59.99 socket today.

I guess if I wanted to drive 90 miles round trip into town and back to grab some crap tools from advance I could have, but the one I had was readily available

The special IPR valve socket tool ranges from $67 to $148 on the internet.

 

Mine isn't an impact socket. Just a 6 point deep well (probably made in China). Freakin impact stuff is serious $$$.

I knew that IPR socket was expensive. That's why I'd just assume pull the turbo--LOL.

 

remove the ipr, inspect the screen, if you find a hole in the screen replace the vlave if the screen is full of trash replace the screen and reinstall then retest.
the reason the ipr gets messes up is install errors on the oil cooler. it happens no matter how carefull you are.

 

Ill see how it starts this morning, I am keeping my fingers crossed.

I will remove the turbo to take it out and clean it.

Ill keep you posted.

 

Well it cranked and cranked and nothing.

So I'm checking this now, I honestly hope this is what it is.

Took the turbo out in less then 20min but now I have to wait for the auto parts store to open to go get the 36mm wrench and possibly a new ipr valve.

 

This is what it looked like


Screen is not torn, not even dirty...IMHO.

Any ideas now?

 

Before I go in and reinstall my turbo anyone think it could be my HPOP?

How hard is it to replace it?

Would this cause my issue?

 

HPOP is right below it.

<a href="http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii288/DE123005/?action=view&amp;current=photo7.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii288/DE123005/photo7.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

Great pic!

how hard was it to do?

 

also, i want to add while cranking, no smoke at all, or codes

 

From that point, it was really easy, it was getting the turbo, intake and all that crap off that was the hardest for me. But it sounds like you're already a champ at getting that turbo off. Being that you have an EGR delete, you MAY be able to get the HPOP cover off without removing the intake, but I'm not sure. The IPR has to be out, then unbolt the cover. Once that's done, stick a drive extension into the hole where the turbo drain tube goes in, and pry it up, it will pop up off the HPOP. To get the HPOP out, it's just the two bolts on the branch tube in the pic, and three torques bolts (two on drivers side, one on passenger side). Comes off and install is revers.

There are more pics in my thread "EGR delete, oil cooler and STC fitting install"

Word of warning, and I'm sure I don't have to tell you this BUT, do NOT drop anything down behind the HPOP, hold onto those bolts like your life depends on it. I dropped one of the bigger bolts when I was taking it out and I was LUCKY that it got caught between the cam gear and block. There's no telling what would of had to happen to get that bolt out had it fallen further down. I about had a mini heart attack....seriously!

 

Great thanks.

Well, its back to stock now...

So the intake has to come off no matter what?

I have a HPOP that will be here tomorrow from the dealer. $700 damn dollars.

Im not even sure its my problem but it seems like what else could it be?

I really need my truck this weekend, so im pushing to have it figured out

 

Before replacing the HPOP, I would think you would want to do an air pressure test.