Something weird happened today..
#47
To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).
3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.
4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listen to where the leak is coming from (note - 12V applied for more than 30 seconds can ruin the IPR valve).
When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.
Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).
3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.
4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listen to where the leak is coming from (note - 12V applied for more than 30 seconds can ruin the IPR valve).
When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.
Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.
#50
You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting for the air to the ICP port.
I know of only the dealership for a spare IPR connector.
Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" or "CLICK" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.
There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad.
I know of only the dealership for a spare IPR connector.
Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" or "CLICK" sound.
Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.
There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad.
#51
Hmm...Quick question...
Im not getting any codes...If it was a failed IPR, ICP, or like a crankshaft position sensor wouldnt I throw a code?
Could I pull out the HPOP and check for play or something wrong?
Also, I have the turbo out now, would that cause it not to start?
Could I have possibly done something wrong when doing the injectors? But I would assume if I did it wouldn't have started at all..right?
Im not getting any codes...If it was a failed IPR, ICP, or like a crankshaft position sensor wouldnt I throw a code?
Could I pull out the HPOP and check for play or something wrong?
Also, I have the turbo out now, would that cause it not to start?
Could I have possibly done something wrong when doing the injectors? But I would assume if I did it wouldn't have started at all..right?
#52
I am no expert, But, Does anyone see alot of hpop failures on the later model 6.0? I thought I read somewhere that HPOP failures on later models were rare. I know you want to do it all yourself, but maybe towin it to the Ford Garage for a diagnostic test would be more efficient than throwing parts at it! You may have a simple plug (or Wire) loose or broken somewhere, that makes contact now and again to get ya goin than vibrations, or the aligning of the stars allows it too work! I am not saying any of this to degrade or deter you, but your wallet has got to be getting pretty light, and I just wanna see it runnin, and read your next post as "I just towed a Cummins to the garage"!
PS once again your patiance and determination is admirable! By now I woulda took a Sledge hammer to every piece on that truck, than rolled it over and drug it on its roof to the scrap yard, for the $400 scrap steel they would give me! I wish you luck!
My temper is short (getting better though, Kids helped that alot) But I have taken hammers to stuff, and broke my hands and wrist on a Bronco 2, because I couldnt get the spring on the back brake drum to go right! (My Pops fixed it in 3 minutes)
PS once again your patiance and determination is admirable! By now I woulda took a Sledge hammer to every piece on that truck, than rolled it over and drug it on its roof to the scrap yard, for the $400 scrap steel they would give me! I wish you luck!
My temper is short (getting better though, Kids helped that alot) But I have taken hammers to stuff, and broke my hands and wrist on a Bronco 2, because I couldnt get the spring on the back brake drum to go right! (My Pops fixed it in 3 minutes)
#53
Oh believe me I have my fair things of bein smashed do to not having the patience.
I've been keeping my cool lately with this truck because it's my pride and joy. Yes my wallet is getting REAL LIGHT.
I just picked up a new ipr valve and a hpop. I sure hope this fixes it. I should have it done by Friday. Does the intake manifold have to come off for sure?
I also went to a "dealer" and looked at about 6 6.0s and wow. They made my truck look new, puking, leaks, dents...etc
Now I'm even more determined to fix mine
I've been keeping my cool lately with this truck because it's my pride and joy. Yes my wallet is getting REAL LIGHT.
I just picked up a new ipr valve and a hpop. I sure hope this fixes it. I should have it done by Friday. Does the intake manifold have to come off for sure?
I also went to a "dealer" and looked at about 6 6.0s and wow. They made my truck look new, puking, leaks, dents...etc
Now I'm even more determined to fix mine
#55
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: N. Fort Worth, tx
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remove the ipr, inspect the screen, if you find a hole in the screen replace the vlave if the screen is full of trash replace the screen and reinstall then retest.
the reason the ipr gets messes up is install errors on the oil cooler. it happens no matter how carefull you are.
the reason the ipr gets messes up is install errors on the oil cooler. it happens no matter how carefull you are.
best O luck with your truck.
#56
#58
No the screen was not flat against the Y, I didnt know it had to be.
I will replace the IPR valve before I do the HPOP. The screen had a little bit of **** on it I sprayed it with brake cleaner and put it back in, tryed to start it with it unplugged, and plugged in and nothing...
Does it matter if I am trying to start it with the turbo out?