Sorry to beat this thing to death, but is this whole idea of casting sand, circulating through the system, erroneous?

 

1. UVCH ($0.50) and torque bolts

Haven't done it yet but I had some info saved:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...lve-cover.html
Posts #4 and #6

Copied from other threads:
Glow plugs: 124 in-lbs or 14NM
Injector hold down bolts: 120 in-lbs (10ft-lbs) or ~14nm
Rocker arm pedestal bolts: 20 ft-lbs
Conflicting info for the valve cover bolts:
Valve cover bolts: 97 in-lbs or 11NM
Valve cover bolts: 8 ft-lbs

 

There is possibly some casting sand left. Doubt they get 100% of it out.

 

Change your brake fluid. It has a tendency to absorb water and then becomes corrosive to carbon steel... Simply open caliper bleed screws and let gravity do the work - just dont let reservoir go dry!!! I do this every couple years or when fluid is no longer 'clear'.

In my life, calipers and master cyl's last almost forever.

FWIW, i switched to ELC and added coolant filter 140k miles ago. Still using same filter (no restriction yet...). I did ELC swap in Excursion and skipped filter.

 

Added to the list. This is such a simple and easy thing to do and the benefits seem quite worthwhile. Especially for those that live in freezing climates. (avoid bursting break lines if fluid contains some water)

A couple of other items added as well. Refer to post #1 for updated list.

 

Bumping this back up to page one. Real good info, some stuff I never thought about. Kudos to everyone and keep up the good work.

 

Awesome thread. Didn't see it mentioned yet, but on my truck the fitting coming out of the power steering pump was rubbing on the IC tube.

It looks like I have a lot of work to do. Saving this thread as my "to do" list.

 

Well I was reviewing this tread and since I come back to this tread on a regular basic to make sure I am staying on top of things it would be nice if there was a link for Torque specs on all orings. I couldn't find one.

Also I would like to touch on HPOP line replacement I think that is a important one. I think the lines, fitting o rings, hpo galley plugs gaskets & o rings should also be considered too. Since if a HPO o ring or gasket starts to leak it could go from bad to dead on the side of the road FAST due to the high pressure. I just finished replacing ALL HPO galley orings in hpop fittings, icp and plugs. I also replaced the oil galley plug gaskets on the front and back of the heads to the updated ones that are 1 piece and the old ones are 2 orings. And I just got my new T500 back from Joey / Terminator which I will install soon. So I will have the piece of mind knowing that I have a completely updated HPOP sytem.
Just something to kick around as far as Failure Pervention.

 

Welded piston oil jets when your in deep would be a good idea IMO.

 

I put a coolant filter on my truck when I flushed and filled the coolant. That was three months ago, and I am on my third filter since (1 filter a month). The first filter plugged at 3 weeks, the second plugged at 8 weeks. The filtration loop is bypass, so I never ran out of coolant for cooling.
The new green coolant, that almost instantly became mud brown, is now starting to get back to bright green. I don't know what was filtered, but the color tells me it was probably rust or dirt, maybe sand. I think it was worth it.

 

How about mods to the IDM to help keep water out of it? I tried a quick search to add a link, but got too many hits about the resistor mod. In my case, the IDM fried from water inside of it (on a clear sunny day) and took 3 injectors with it . . .

 

Does unplugging the fuel bowl heater cause any issues in the winter and does it throw a CEL?

 

I don't remember it throwing a code, and..

I guess it depends on just how cold it gets during your winter.

Mine? No problemo!

Pop

 

No CEL or SES light.

Think about where the heater is mounted...

if you were going to have gelling issues(purpose of the heater) wouldn't it gel long before the fuel bowl? Like the tank, or pickup lines, or fuel pump. That's just my thoughts on it's function.

Now I do accept that after the engine is running, that heating the fuel is also heating the return fuel so it would theoretically warm the tank some, although I don't know how effectively. As with Pop, if you live in pretty extreme climates then maybe service the heater, and keep it in good order.

 

Thanks for all the ideas. Need to come back and read when I have more time.