After $168.00 charge to read the codes, the service writer tells me I need to replace the passenger side UVCH and gasket.
That will be another $370.00 thank you very much.

The way my truck is acting & the reading I've done, it sounds like I may have a loose connection under the valve cover.

I haven't done any engine work for years.
Never done any diesel work.
You can understand why I'm hesitant to start yanking stuff off.

Can anybody point me to instructions, with pictures would be excellent.

DK

 

O.K...We can help ya.Is the gasket leaking?If not you need the $.50 cent mod...I do not have the write up but maybe Chris (F350_6) will see this.Remove the valve cover and insert a quarter that has been cut right above Washington's head.It will snap right in there to hold the harness and prevent it from working loose.
If the gasket is bad then the new style gaskets have a better clip.....DO NOT TAKE IT BACK TO THE STEALERSHIP.You can do this with our help.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8408158 This thread contains the info on the 50 cent mod and some other things that are good to know.

 

Sorry, not a lot of pictures. Maybe once it warms up I'll have Barry help me do this so I can take a bunch of pictures and do a full write up on this.

Seeing how there's almost $400 on the line here, I guess we need to determine you're level of mechanical aptitude. Can you remember righty tighty, lefty loosey?

If the answer is Yes, then we're ready to get started. You will need a ratchet, some sockets, a couple of different length extensions, one of those u-joint or swivel joint socket adapters, and maybe a pair of channel locks or vice grips, pliers, and a flat blade screwdriver.

First remove the big aluminum intercooler tube that's on top of the valve cover and in your way. You'll need to unplug the wires to the MAP sensor and use the pliers to loosen the clamp holding the rubber hose on the MAP to get them out of the way. Loosen the nuts on the clamps and you can pull the tube out of there after a little maneuvering.

Next, look at the oil fill cap and notice how it sits on a long plastic tube. Under the cap is a hex head shape. Either use your hands or channel locks and unscrew that long tube off the valve cover to get it out of the way. Then locate the 2 plastic things that hold the heater hoses next to the valve cover. Those things just pull straight up and off the valve cover bolts. If they don't feel like they want to budge, use a flat blade screwdriver and pry them off the studs.

The worst part is the oil dipstick flange. It is held in place with a nut on a valve cover stud. (remember this when re-installing and don't tighten this up too much). When you start to loosen that nut, watch the flange that holds the dipstick tube. If it starts to twist, stop and get the pair of vice grips. Hold the flange still with the vice grips while you break the nut loose.

After that, it's the whole righty tighty, lefty loosey thing as you remove the rest of the valve cover bolts. You'll need the swivel for the two bolts next to the AC. The valve cover gasket is rubber and re-usable. The loose connector often looks like this



You can buy a set of shims from Ford or International, or simply make your own out of quarters as Barry mentioned. The quarter happens to be the right thickness and diameter to provide a good shim if the top edge is ground down.






Got any torque wrenches? There's a couple of other things you might want to check as long as you're in there.

 

not meaning to hi-jack, but I've been wondering what the re-torquing is to be down under the VC. What are the specs and everything? I'm planning a bunch of work on my engine once it gets warmer here so i figure while i'm in there doing up pipes down pipe hpx frx and everything I might as well pull the VC's and get the .50 mod out of the way along with the torquing...

Thanks guys, and sorry again about the bit of a hijack

 

Rocker arm pedestal bolts circled in red to 20 ft - lbs.

Lower injector hold down bolt circled in blue to 120 IN - lbs.

 

Chris, you hit it right on the head...great info...reps to ya'...the only missing info, which you would figure out without being told, is that the quarter, when ground down, slides into the slot from the top of the block so the ground side clears the valve cover, hence the reason to grind the quarter to the aforementioned location...nobody told me that, but like i said, in a pinch, you have to think and make it work...lol...this was really a simple repair, and while you're in there with the valve cover off...think about doing the CCV mod too...it's a great time to get that out of the way...


The best advice...this is your truck...take your time, don't worry about how long it takes...this ain't no race, you and us all want your rig running strong...

 

Well it looks like the instructions came to me.
With pictures.

Yeah, I got that righty tighty, lefty loony thing covered.
Plenty of tools too. They're mighty useful me being a contractor.

With all this encouragement, pictures, near step by step instructions,
the weekend & a quarter I may have this problem licked.
I'll keep you updated as the weekend and job progresses.

Thanks everyone.
DK

 

Make sure you have a couple of u-joint socket adapters and a variety of extensions to get a few of the hard to reach VC bolts. Not a huge deal, just looks intimidating the first time you do it.

 

Not "a" quarter....it's called the 50 cent mod for a reason....lol...don't go doing just one side...do 'em both or you'll be doing it eventually...and go on and get the CCV mod out of the way...you'll kick yourself if you don't and then want to do it later...

 

F350-6 has laid it out for you real well.

If the two bolts by the A/C give you trouble, then you may choose to pull off the right front tire and reach in there with a wrench. It's real easy to reach those two bolts through the wheel well.

 

I removed the inner fender well to gain better access to the passenger side valve cover bolts. It makes getting to the back bolt by the down pipe a lot easier.
Jrod

 

With good weather and a step ladder next to the front tire, I managed a couple of hours on the truck today.
I took it slow and easy so not to break anything. Scraped my hands and arms as you would expect.
Got it apart and sure enough the connector was backed out so far it's amazing that side of the engine was firing at all.
Installed my quarter, torqued everything, then bolted the valve cover back on.

Dark now so I'll have to finish tomorrow.
Time to put a different kind of screwdriver in hand now.

DK

 

Congrats. Sounds like you've got an extra $369.75 now, so have a couple.

Now you see why so many of us have a supporter badge next to our names. The info available on here is easily worth $20.

 

We knew you could do it!...Congrats....Does'nt it feel good to do it yourself and not have sex at the stealership.Keep up the good work