Considering the multiple threads we have on "Start Issues" these truck have. One of the maintenance items I do on a annual basis, is to completely remove both batteries from my van, do a good cleaning of the battery trays, the battery cases, terminal posts, cable terminals, check batteries for capacity, re- install batteries then re-coat all contact surfaces and re-assemble battery cables. Since my second battery is under the frame rail on the passenger side, it's the only time I can actually see that battery. I do a good visual on the starter cable, checking for tightness of all starter bolts.

 

By any chance to you have any pics or a small write up? How do you go about checking the batteries for capacity?
Thanks for the suggestion, this is a good item to add. Especially true for me since my truck eats batteries every two years since the day it rolled off the assembly line. I've never been able to figure out a fix. Maybe your preventive maintenance idea will extend the life of my batteries.

 

I have a small automotive resistive load tester made for this purpose.

 

Excellent idea! I can't believe we missed that up to this point. Thanks for reminding us. I updated the list in the original post.

Thanks for the phantom reps, always appreciated.
What does the coolant filter mod do exactly? I've always wondered about that one. I think some of our larger fleet trucks have a filter but I've never known why. Do you have a link to a write up?

Thank you as well.

Added to the list. Thanks for posting the link to your write up.

Thanks for the link. And yes, the AC shim by SpringerPop is a great idea. I'll find the link and post it.

 

A/C compressor Clutch Air Gap write up by SpringerPop.

Issue: Over time the clutch plates wear enough to increase the air gap and make it difficult for the electromagnets to pull in the clutch plates. This results in no cold air or intermittent cold air.

Here is a link to SpringerPop's write up with more details and step by step instructions.
SpringerPop's Compressor Clutch Air Gap

 

[quote=gchavez;10073667]Excellent idea! I can't believe we missed that up to this point. Thanks for reminding us. I updated the list in the original post.


Thanks for the phantom reps, always appreciated.
What does the coolant filter mod do exactly? I've always wondered about that one. I think some of our larger fleet trucks have a filter but I've never known why. Do you have a link to a write up?

I don't have a link or a write up, but there's been some discussion, and Big Poppa posted some pictures of the sand or whatever that came out of his filter. Apparantly, the castings have residual sand left in them that circulates and contributes to the premature wear of the water pumps. There's also some mention of silica from the green coolant that is removed as well. I don't know if that harms anything or not. The sand issure was enough for me to put one on. I'm just getting ready to change mine out on the first 3 month changeout.

 

This thread is one of the golden nuggets of this forum which was on page one yesterday and page three today. Easy for me & I'm sure others to miss. Thank you Gregg for this great idea. I'm hopeful that we can get contributions from our most experienced members; You know who you are.
While not my idea, I didn't see it mentioned to put some split loom around the hose going from the water pump to the filter. This would prevent a shredding belt from taking out this hose too.
Include it or not, I am grateful to all of you men & women who share their experiences helping me to avoid that trouble. Thank you again for being a great bunch of teachers & mentors taking me where I have not been before.
Thanks again!

Francis B

 

Thanks a lot for that idea! I hadn't thought of it, but will have to do it.

 

Subscribing.

 

....because Andy texted me earlier this evening about his IPR nut coming off...

Riffraff Diesel: IPR Re-Seal kit



Description:
New o-rings (3), spacer and nut for the IPR valve that is installed in the High Pressure Oil Pump. Internal o-rings can get worn and have high pressure oil leak by causing rough idle and poor performance. You may not need a new IPR valve, just replace the worn out o-rings.
Manufactured in the USA

I figured this would be perfect for the preventive maintenance thread.

Stewart

 

Thanks Stewart. I actually have this kit in my glove box along with my mechanic's combo kit. Like you say, good insurance. I updated the first post to reference post 18 and 40.

Since we are talking about spare parts....
I think ALL 7.3 owners should carry a spare CPS as well. (I am actually surprised that nobody had mentioned this yet...) They are relatively inexpensive so it's worth it in my opinion. If you haven't done the recall yet, then go the Ford and they may give you one over the counter. If you have the recall CPS installed then try and find a new black CPS and use that one instead. (Sure makes my truck run better as well.) Then put the recall CPS back in the bag/box and keep it handy just in case.

Here is a link where you can get a black CPS.
Riffraff Diesel: International "Black" CPS - Original

Here is a link to the procedure.
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/cps.php

 

Thank you Greg and all of you for sharing on this tread. I am going to use this as a check list of things to do since in about a week my truck is going back in the garage for a few weeks and having the trans(front seal, bushing and pump valve and gears) and fuel tank (hutch) ripped out and worked on. I have no real problems but I plan on keeping it that way.
You guys are what make FTE a great place. Honestly you 7.3 guys are the best. I would be lost without you. Thank you.

 

This weekend I said that it was time to rotate my tires. I put the rear axle on 'trucks stands' and took the lug nuts off.... The Rear Wheels were 'rusted' to the hub and I could not pull them off by hand. This is the second time that this has happen. Both times I had to use a Scissor Jack to 'pop' the tire off. Both time I cleaned the tires and hubs off and put anti-stick (copper) lube on the tires/hubs. I was lucky that I did not have a flat on the road and had the tools (scissor jack and sledge hammer) to get the wheels off.

Rotate your tires and keep the 'rust' off of the wheels/hubs.

 

There are a couple of products that us boat trailers users use. One of them is called Fluid film, a lanolin based product that "creeps" into all the nooks and crannies and seals the metal against moisture. leaves a film on the hub and lugs. My trailer has no brakes, so I am not sure how that might make a differance. The other product is call "Corrosion X HD" it works in the same way, but is a little thicker. Not sure of what it is made of. Still works well for trailer wheels to stop rust in salt water. Both products are in aerosol cans.

 

[quote=Waynenap;10074050] Hey Greg and Ken, a preventitive mod I'd call this. After seeing Izzy351 Joe's silica dropout thread and hearing about muiltible waterpump failures, I decided to install a filter setup. Here's the thread with pics of my install https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...with-pics.html