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Aug 15, 2012 | 08:05 PM

#76

BadDogKuzz

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From: Gary,Indiana

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD

No CEL or SES light.

Think about where the heater is mounted...

if you were going to have gelling issues(purpose of the heater) wouldn't it gel long before the fuel bowl? Like the tank, or pickup lines, or fuel pump. That's just my thoughts on it's function.

Now I do accept that after the engine is running, that heating the fuel is also heating the return fuel so it would theoretically warm the tank some, although I don't know how effectively. As with Pop, if you live in pretty extreme climates then maybe service the heater, and keep it in good order.

That is some very good points Al.

Now I have had my bowl heater unplugged for 2 yrs now and I only plug it in when it is below 0* I have never had a code or CEL

Personally what the heck was Ford thinking when they put the fuel bowl heater and pcm on the same fuse. DUMB

Aug 17, 2012 | 01:38 PM

#77

JayTheCPA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BigAlsPSD

. . . if you were going to have gelling issues(purpose of the heater) wouldn't it gel long before the fuel bowl?

IIRC, the gelling will first occur in the filter which turns into a plug, as it collects the bits that are coming out of solution, until heat turns the stuff back to a fluid. Am sure that there is more to it in terms of the combustion cycle, but others with better expertise will need to chime-in.

Aug 18, 2012 | 08:48 AM

#78

SkySkiJason

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From: N.GA Mountains

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayTheCPA

Never heard that before...

A large quantity of fuel will take longer to gel than a small quantity, so in theory the steel fuel lines exposed to wind under the truck and the fuel pump itself are going to be more viscous before the relatively protected fuel filter.

The exception would be water-contaminated fuel trapped in the filter - this would certainly freeze early and cause problems.

It seems like it would be more smarter to just use a winter-blend fuel and/or additives that lower the gel point to below your anticipated temps and perhaps drain the filter housing to mitigate the chances of water collected in there. I have operated my truck in -10* and not had any problems starting (or gelling) without the fuel bowl heater.

Put a piece of hose on the end of the steel line the filter drain discharges out of. Make the hose long enough so you can set a water/soda bottle on the ground and collect the contents of fuel bowl. Now you can have a sample you can inspect and then set out and SEE if it has a tendency to gel.

Aug 20, 2012 | 11:54 AM

#79

JayTheCPA

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Quote:

Originally Posted by SkySkiJason

Never heard that before...

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9; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin-top:0in; mso-para-margin-right:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:10.0pt; mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> Always love an opportunity to test the memory and learn / re-learn something. Agree that fuel lines are susceptible to the effects of gelling where personal intuition is that given they are under pressure, any gel / slush will first work its way through them (up to a point) where it accumulates at the filter. Found a reference point on the diesel gel topic:
Cloud point - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Also seem to recall that the fuel filter heater was a discussion point in one of the Ford videos that came with the Navistar engine (which IIRC the heater turned on at 45F and lower). Found a thread on another brand’s site where #2 diesel (excluding WVO and Bio mixes) starts to experience temperature related blockage around 40F down to 20F depending on some variables like water content; also, found comments that the fuel would gel and not flow through lines starting around 5F to -10F depending on misc factors. (Am merely paraphrasing as I am not a fuel expert by any means.)

As a side note, never had a noticeable fuel starvation issue with a ’76 Mercedes (had a horizontal tank under the trunk and no filter heater) during the pre-ULSD days, lowest temperature I experienced was 10F (with and without a block heated start), and the thing ran fine even at highway speeds. To help keep the Mercedes fuel system clean, I added biobor periodically year round and cetane boost during the winter months; perhaps this was a snake-oil approach, but I never had to worry about cold weather starts. Naturally, I am not claiming that removal of the fuel filter’s heater element is or is not a good idea, just sharing an experience.

And for the thread topic, if lifting the engine to replace / coat the oil sump due to rust, consider going after the exhaust manifolds and up-pipes as they are rusting as well and likely lead to a performance / economy drop-off when they leak. But then, perhaps I am one of the lucky ones with extra rust due to brine on the roads.

Mar 25, 2013 | 08:51 PM

#80

jgilrfr

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From: Staten Island,hamilton ny

I would suggest changing or inspecting the brake line where it runs behind the fuel tank,I had mine burst 140 miles from home,and there is no quick fix and the danger factor is HUGE.I am in NY,where salt in the winter is used copiously and i think contributed to this.

Apr 1, 2013 | 02:47 PM

#81

Shake-N-Bake

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From: Mesa AZ

Quote:

Originally Posted by jgilrfr

Good call! I believe a couple of members have reported something similar as well. I think they said the metal tubing had rusted through due to moisture being trapped. Is a visual inspection good enough or is it more involved?

I saw a thread by Franko that seemed like a great addition.
He warns about loose steering column screws. I've seen it on one of my trucks as well. I think this is a good one to check.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-warning.html

Apr 2, 2013 | 11:07 AM

#82

JayTheCPA

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Now that you mention brake lines . . . I got a survey request from the DOT in May 2012 that asked about brake line failures (implication was from rust / corrosion); at the time the main focus appeared that it was on GM SUV & trucks, but they apparently expanded the scope to ask about other makes.

And while on the topic of brakes, had my rear flex hoses degrade from the *inside* which lead to failure of the rears when I had to stomp on the brakes one morning; result was I milled the front rotors as they warped from the overheat.

Jul 11, 2013 | 07:51 AM

#83

Dieselgrowl

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From: Greenville, PA

Im going to bump this thread back up as it has some good info!!

Aug 14, 2013 | 01:31 AM

#84

DougDiesel

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Great info guys. I've worked on gassers all my life and just had a basic working knowledge of diesels. You guys ROCK!!!!

I have learned so much just reading the help on this forum. I did the diy 6637 and the Radiator flush and added the ELC so far. I have a Walker Btm in the garage ready to go on now. Thanks again for all the help you give the world of Ford Diesel owners.
Doug

Oct 2, 2013 | 09:55 AM

#85

Crazyotto1

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From: Pahrump, NV

I'm subscribing to this thread as I'm new to Diesels and just got a stock 7.3 that will no doubt use some of these mods.

Jan 24, 2014 | 02:53 PM

#86

Y2KW57

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Another subscription here. Reps paid.

Jul 3, 2014 | 06:33 AM

#87

Freaky1

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From: Littleton, CO

Subscribing! I just rolled over 200k and I'm the second owner of my Ex, picked it up almost 10k ago, and I want it around for at least another 100k.

Feb 25, 2015 | 06:46 AM

#88

USMC1968

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From: Maryland

Great info guys! Subscribing :-)
So, my truck was just inspected and passed but I did notice some surface rust on the frame that I will be taking care of this Spring.
How often does that harness connection issue happen inside the UVCH (.50cent mod)
I know Millions of these 7.3's were made and have a reputation for being bullet proof.

Semper Fi

Feb 25, 2015 | 05:56 PM

#89

speakerfritz

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jgilrfr

I replaced mine twice in my expedition.....the last time I sprayed it with rustolum...comes bare metal from the factory.

Had to drive home in 4WL the last time it broke.

Mar 1, 2015 | 04:38 PM

#90

exbxtoy

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Subscribed. I just added wire loom to the power steering hoses and found in doing so the passenger side line was loose. I tried tightening with an 18 mm wrench and could not get it tight. The tube still feels like it's not seated and tight. Do the power steering lines on the firewall side use o rings?

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