New CPS died?
So far it looks like their initial diagnosis was correct. Sounds like as the oil warmed up it leaked more causing a drop in HPOP pressure. I'll post again when I get it back tomorrow.
Steve
You can buy a tool specifically made for measuring the air gap. Look at this Cam Sensor Measurement tool price is $376......which is why I machined my own

awesome info and wright up . so i noticed the size difference with the black to the new gray one as i just put my international one in sat . and i felt the difference in idle and it starts quicker. i feel like there is more low end power maybe in my head but it feels like it.did you shim yours up ?
So far it looks like their initial diagnosis was correct. Sounds like as the oil warmed up it leaked more causing a drop in HPOP pressure. I'll post again when I get it back tomorrow.
Steve
It's a pretty consistent problem, 15 miles or so of highway driving and it quits. It died this time when I was turning a corner just after leaving the interstate, may have done that another time also. Anyway, I called the dealer and they sent a tow truck. They were convinced it was the o-rings so the guy was shocked when I called him and said I was once again on the side of the road. I had a bad feeling about the repair, I asked him several times if they were sure that was the issue and brought up some of the other things I thought it may be as I had done when I took it in. He said the manager was aware of the problem and something would be done. I expressed my unhappiness, but was civil!
I told them from the start that I thought it may be the IPR, they said it was very rare for those to go bad on this motor. I would think the o-ring problem would be even rarer from what I have read? So now I'll wait to see what they find. I'm thinking IPR, cracked oil pickup tube, HPOP? I don't know, just tired of thinking about it. The only code it showed last time was low/high oil pressure or something like that.
Steve
awesome info and wright up . so i noticed the size difference with the black to the new gray one as i just put my international one in sat . and i felt the difference in idle and it starts quicker. i feel like there is more low end power maybe in my head but it feels like it.did you shim yours up ?
It's a pretty consistent problem, 15 miles or so of highway driving and it quits. It died this time when I was turning a corner just after leaving the interstate, may have done that another time also. Anyway, I called the dealer and they sent a tow truck. They were convinced it was the o-rings so the guy was shocked when I called him and said I was once again on the side of the road. I had a bad feeling about the repair, I asked him several times if they were sure that was the issue and brought up some of the other things I thought it may be as I had done when I took it in. He said the manager was aware of the problem and something would be done. I expressed my unhappiness, but was civil!
I told them from the start that I thought it may be the IPR, they said it was very rare for those to go bad on this motor. I would think the o-ring problem would be even rarer from what I have read? So now I'll wait to see what they find. I'm thinking IPR, cracked oil pickup tube, HPOP? I don't know, just tired of thinking about it. The only code it showed last time was low/high oil pressure or something like that.
Steve
The most prevalent areas are at the IPR connector and along the drivers side valve cover. Unfortunately it is a tough deal to find. If it is the 5 volt VREF signal, it could easily cause all the sensors to be lost and the truck could die. If it is the IPR it will definitely die.
When it dies, does it do it at throttle or idle? I can understand it dying at idle, but if it is dying at driving RPM it would have to be either the IPR or CPS signal.
The most prevalent areas are at the IPR connector and along the drivers side valve cover. Unfortunately it is a tough deal to find. If it is the 5 volt VREF signal, it could easily cause all the sensors to be lost and the truck could die. If it is the IPR it will definitely die.
When it dies, does it do it at throttle or idle? I can understand it dying at idle, but if it is dying at driving RPM it would have to be either the IPR or CPS signal.
I did check the wiring some after the first time, but not thoroughly, mostly where the harness goes over the valve cover and at the sensors etc. I did put a piece of rubber material between the harness and valve cover to prevent chafing and or shorting. I mentioned the wiring harness when I initially took it in. I would (but should not) assume they would take a look, at least at the wiring under the valve covers where there are typically problems.
It seems that if it was a wiring problem, it may not be as consistent when it dies? The last two times it quit, the driving time and distance were nearly identical. It may have been the other times too, but I didn't take note at that time as I was sure it was the CPS. It was like clockwork, at least the last 2 times.
The first time it died, I don't recall whether I had my foot on it or not. I was pulling into a parking lot. It re-started and on the way home I was just approaching an intersection and depending on the traffic light, I may have been coasting, may have been accelerating, just don't recall. I think I rolled through the intersection when it died. The next time I was driving on a rural road and it quit. I was approaching a bend in the road, but I think I still had my foot on the throttle. The next time I was on the interstate (on a bridge no less), I had just turned my chip to the 80HP position from stock. Thought it may be an issue with the chip, but it was never in any mode but stock when it happened the other times. Not that that means a bunch if the chip were loose or defective. I did check it to be sure it was seated well. I probably should have removed it, but I was on the interstate, had to get to work and it was cold plus the tow truck was on the way. I figured when the chip kicked in with the increased power, that the HPOP pressure may have dropped or something. BTW, the shop was aware of the chip. When it quit today, I was turning a corner, I believe with foot off the accelerator.
So, the first time(s) it quit pulling into a parking lot. It started back up so I shut it down and did my shopping. It started back up and on the way home in died and would not start. I replaced the CPS on the side of the road then it started but it had obviously been sitting while I was changing the CPS. The second incident when it quit on the rural road, I walked home a couple of miles, borrowed a car to drive back and see if it would start and it did so I got it home and changed the CPS again. The third incident on the highway, I waited awhile but would not re-start. That's when it was towed to the dealer. They said it would not start the next day. This time, I don't know. I had my kids with me and couldn't wait around and mess with it.
One more thing, some time ago, there were a few times the truck didn't start right away, like a CPS issue, it just cranked. I waited a minute and it started. It quit doing that so I just dismissed it. It's also always had to turn over a few times before it starts, nothing bad, just doesn't pop right off. Just a note, I keep the truck in a heated garage. I hope all this makes sense, as I was writing, I kept remembering different issues so my brain is kind of scrambled. Any further ideas would be appreciated as I'm sure I will be on the phone with them tomorrow.
Thanks,
Steve
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
One question, when I picked it up and started it, it blew quite a bit of blue smoke for maybe 10 seconds or so. Keep in mind it had already been driven a lot the previous day. I haven't tried another cold start yet but got thinking if one of the injector o-rings they installed may have gotten twisted or something? It did not do it before.
Steve
One question, when I picked it up and started it, it blew quite a bit of blue smoke for maybe 10 seconds or so. Keep in mind it had already been driven a lot the previous day. I haven't tried another cold start yet but got thinking if one of the injector o-rings they installed may have gotten twisted or something? It did not do it before.
Steve
If they replaced the ipr you probably got air in the system. Just drive it for 50-100 miles and it should clear up.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks for sharing!
FYI, there is an IPR on eBay right now for $99. You can generally pick up a new one on ebay for less than $150. I was going to pick one up prior, but since I just spent $350 w/ tax, I may hold off. There are some other sensors, fuses etc that I'll pick up and maintenance I need to perform. I'm pretty paranoid now, breaking down so many times has me thinking of the other weak links. Losing power in an interstate bridge isn't ideal! Two times I broke down, my kids were with me and in the midwest winter, that's not ideal either!
Thanks to everyone for the help! As always, there is more information and knowledgeable folks here then there is at the dealer in many cases. To be fair, in a conversation with the service manager, we did talk some about how the mods, while they increase power can put undo stress and wear on certain components. I think the techs are used to working on stock vehicles with stock problems. The IPR failure may be very uncommon in their shop, but in our little community it's fairly common. While their first course of diagnostic action was under the valve covers, our trouble shooting would probably take a different path. That's why I suggested the IPR right off. It's easy to understand and I don't disparage the technicians, they certainly know more than I as I'm not a mechanic. I also know there are many service techs on this board, I'm sure very good ones. I believe all of the collective knowledge here is is superior as we all have common mods and vast combined experience with certain issues.
So I spent a bunch on injector o-rings, but one had in fact failed. Although it wasn't the fix it was a problem I wasn't aware of and hopefully will solve my oil consumption issue and prevent future issues. At least I know I have new o-rings. I would love to raise hell at the shop, but I believe they did their best according to their experiences and made it a priority to get me back on the road. I seriously think the service manager was driving the Excursion a good part of the day. The last thing he said to me was, "you know my number but if it still isn't fixed, I think I'll put a bullet in my head"! It made me laugh and also recognize this was a bit hard on them too. I think we are too hard on dealerships and shops sometimes. Sure, some of them just plain don't know what they are doing or want to take advantage, it's that way in any business. We just need to find good reputable service facilities when we need them.
As much as I would like to wrench on the truck myself, there is too much going on in my life to always have time. It's good to know I can come here not only to fix an issue myself but to gain the knowledge so I can effectively communicate with the service facility. It certainly helps (in most cases) to go in with some valid knowledge of the problem, much less likely that they will take advantage. Again, thanks to everyone for their input! The good people on this board have helped me countless times over the years.

Steve











