I've spent a few hours this evening trying to figure this out and have a few thoughts, IPR or CPS, but wanted to get some more insight and input that could point point my problems.

Here is what happened... On the way to work, from a stop sign, I got onto the gas fairly good. While accelerating, the truck shut down. The engine just shut off but I still had power to the instrument cluster, radio, ect. After pulling to the side of the road I immediately I suspected the DP Tuner that I just put in. Thinking that it was a bad connection on the PCM, and only two blocks from home, I removed the DP Tuner. Still no start.

Got it towed home and have checked several other things this evening.

1) Found a co-worker that has a Super tuner. I know... they aren't great, but useful for pulling limited codes. Only one code appeared, P0603 (PCM Keep Alive Error) The code is now been cleared

2) While cranking, RPM neddle moves, I am thinking this rules out the CPS

3) Oil level was low, topped it off to be safe.

4) Fuse #30, fuel bowl heater, has not been blown

5) All instrument lights work as normal, ABS light is on, WTS comes on, ect.

6) No flashing OD light

7) ICP plug appears to be dry, no oil pooling in the plug or leaking

8) Fuel pump is operating

9) Fuel bowl has fuel and when drain is refilled by the pump

10) HPOP reservoir has oil in it, continual cranking did not appear to drain it

11) Could not find chaffing on the wiring harness going over the driver fender to the drives valve cover (the harness wrapped with red tape)

12) Fiddled with the CPS plug just to see if there was a bad connection, appears to be ok

13)The DP Tuner is out and keys were removed before removing the tuner this morning.

14) Removed battery clamps and cleaned posts and clamps

After all of this I have tried to start it with no luck. It will crank but not start. What else am I missing? Any other things to check?

Some basic truck info in addition to the signature (haven't updated the signature in a while)

DP Tuner installed a week ago, removed today after no start problem. I have had it in and out about 4 times in the last 3 weeks, and back to Jody for tweaking all to solve a shifting issue.

John Wood Valve Body

Auxiliary Trans cooler

New batteries within the last 4 weeks.

Any help would be appreciated!

 

Any smoke while cranking? Does it sound like its turning over fast enough to fire? Whats the voltage while sitting there with everything off? How about while cranking (needs 10.5v to fire). Charge the batteries overnight so you've got a fresh set in the morning.

 

It is dark out, so smoke is hard to see from the driver seat. My dad said what was coming out had a slight tint of white.

Voltage with everything off is 12.4.

Voltage while cranking will have to wait till tomorrow. Thanks for stating the voltage needed to fire! I will post as soon as I can.

I can't get the truck up my drive way, it to just to steep. It is on the other side of the street for the night, but I will pull the batteries in the morning and let them charge while at work.

Thanks for the ideas!

 

bad PCM or IDM? Sounds like everything on the truck is as it should be so I have to wonder if it's time to suspect the worst

 

Check this list. Maybe you missed one of these steps.

Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Procedures
2000 PCED OBD II Diesel SECTION 4A: Diagnostic Subroutines — F250-550 and Econoline
Procedure revision date: 01/02/2003
Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Procedures
1. Visual Engine/Chassis Inspection
Purpose:
This is a visual inspection to check the general condition of the engine and look for obvious causes of hard start or no start conditions.
Recommended Procedure:
Inspect fuel system including fuel tank and fuel lines for kinks, bends and/or leakage. Check oil lines and high pressure pump in engine V for major oil leaks. Inspect for coolant leaks at radiator and heater hoses and check coolant level. Inspect MAP sensor and intercooler for pinched hoses and leaks. Inspect wiring for correct routing and make sure no rubbing or chafing has occurred. Inspect the in-line 42-way, injector driver module (IDM), powertrain control module (PCM) and sensor connectors to make sure they are completely seated and in good condition.
Possible Causes:
Loose or leaking fuel supply lines could cause fuel system to lose prime.
Kinked or blocked fuel supply lines will create fuel restriction.
Massive fuel or oil leaks could contribute to no start conditions.
Coolant leaks could indicate serious engine problems.
Electronic connectors may be damaged or not installed properly causing a no start condition. The camshaft position (CMP) sensor and the injection pressure regulator (IPR) are the two most critical electronic sensors/actuators to inspect in no start situations.
Pinched or open MAP sensor hose.
Pinched or open intercooler hose.
Tools Required:
Inspection light
2. Check Engine Oil Level
Purpose:
To determine if there is enough oil or oil of sufficient quality to operate the injectors.
Recommended Procedure:
Check oil level with dipstick when vehicle is on level ground. If there is no oil or very little oil in the crankcase, the injectors will not operate. If the oil level on the dipstick is overfull it is possible the engine was incorrectly serviced or fuel is diluting the oil and filling the crankcase. Usually if a substantial amount of fuel is in the oil it will have a fuel odor.
Inspect oil for color. A milky white oil indicates possible coolant contamination and will have an ethylene glycol odor.
Check service records for correct oil type and viscosity for the vehicle operating temperature. Single weight or 15W-40 oil is not recommended for cold ambient temperatures. 10W-30 oil is recommended for cold ambient temperatures. Oil that has had extended drain intervals will have increased viscosity (become thicker) and will make engine cranking more difficult and starting less reliable at temperatures below
freezing. Refer to the lube oil chart in the Workshop Manual or Owner's Guide for the correct oil selection for temperature conditions.
The level in the oil reservoir should also be checked. Remove the inspection plug in top of reservoir and check to see if the oil reservoir is full. (A reservoir that drains back after the engine has not been operated for a period of time can cause a hard start and die condition.) Filling the reservoir will allow the system to prime faster facilitating starting.
Possible Causes:
Loss of lube oil pressure
Oil level low — oil leak, oil consumption, incorrect servicing
Oil level high — incorrect servicing, fuel dilution from tandem fuel pump, fuel dilution from injector Orings
Oil contamination with coolant — oil cooler, head gasket, porosity
Low reservoir level — engine built dry (not pressure lubed), prolonged period of not running, excessive cranking without starting
Tools Required:
1/4-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove inspection plug
3. Intake/Exhaust Restriction
Purpose:
This is a visual inspection to determine if an air intake or exhaust restriction is contributing to a no start or hard start condition. If the engine does start with a high air intake or exhaust restriction, a considerable amount of black/blue smoke is produced.
Recommended Procedure:
Inspect the air cleaner inlet and ducting to assure that it is not blocked or collapsed. Inspect the air cleaner housing and filter for proper installation. Inspect the filter minder to assure intake restriction is below the red marks.
Inspect the exhaust back pressure device bellcrank during cranking and assure that it is not closing. Inspect the exhaust system for damaged or blocked pipes. When the tang is against the stop, the valve is fully open.
Possible Causes:
Snow, plastic bags or other foreign material may restrict airflow at the air inlet.
Misrouted air cleaner ducting.
On engines recently repaired, rags or cap plugs may have been inadvertently left in an air inlet pipe.
Exhaust back pressure device may be closing during cranking or stuck closed.
Tailpipe or muffler may have collapsed or been damaged.
Tools Required:
None
4. Sufficient Clean Fuel
Purpose:
The purpose of this test is to see if the fuel system is getting sufficient clean fuel to start and run.
Recommended Procedure:
Route a hose from the fuel drain line to a clear container and open the drain. When the key is turned to the on position, the fuel pump will run for 20 seconds. Turn the key on and observe the fuel flowing into the container. Turn the key off when the container is half full.
Observe the WATER IN FUEL lamp while cranking the engine. If the lamp is illuminated, the fuel is probably contaminated with water.
Flow out of the drain should be a steady stream. Insufficient flow could indicate fuel supply or fuel system problems.
Inspect fuel in the container. It should be straw colored, but not cloudy. It also should be free of water and contaminants. Dyed red or blue fuel indicates off-highway fuel.
If engine oil is present in the fuel it may indicate an injector O-ring leak and subsequent loss of rail pressure.
If that is suspected, check rail pressure during engine cranking (Hard Start/No Start Diagnostic Procedures Step 9C).
Some sediment and water may be present in the fuel sample if the fuel filter has not been serviced for a prolonged period of time and/or if the sediment and water have not been drained recently. If that is the case, a second sample may be required to determine fuel quality.
Possible Causes:
No fuel in tank.
Fuel supply line could be broken or crimped.
Fuel could be jelled (most likely in cold weather with No. 2 fuel).
Pickup tube screen in tank could be clogged.
Cloudy fuel indicates that the fuel may not be a suitable grade for cold temperatures; excessive water or contaminants may indicate that the tank and fuel system may need to be flushed and cleaned.
Tools Required:
Clear container — approximately 1-quart
5. Electric Fuel Pump Pressure
Purpose:
To determine if there is sufficient fuel pressure for starting.
Recommended Procedure:
First verify that there is fuel in the tank and battery voltage going to the fuel pump, using a digital multimeter connected between the two circuits going to the pump. Battery voltage will be present for approximately 20 seconds after the ignition key is turned on. If no voltage is present, GO to Pinpoint Test FK .
Remove the doghouse cover and remove the 1/8-inch pipe plug from the top rear of left head. Install Gauge (0-160 psi) Bar 014-00761 or equivalent. Measure pressure in crank or run. If pressure measures below specification (30 psi), perform test step 8a in Performance Diagnostic Procedures in this section.
F-Series
Remove the 1/8-inch pipe plug from the top front of the right head. Install Gauge (0-160 psi) Bar 014-00761 or equivalent. Measure pressure in crank or run. If pressure measures below specification (30 psi), perform test steps 8a-d in Performance Diagnostic Procedures in this section.
6. Perform KOEO On-Demand Self Test
Purpose:
To determine if the PCM has detected any fault conditions that would cause a hard start or no start condition.
Note: The IDM stores both historical and hard IDM fault codes. To retrieve IDM fault codes, you must run KOEO On-Demand Self Test or KOEO Injector Electrical Test. To ensure that the DTC is a hard fault, you must first clear Continuous DTCs (be sure to record all DTCs before clearing) even though IDM codes do not show up on the Continuous display. Rerun KOEO On-Demand Self Test, if an IDM DTC is set a hard
fault has occurred.
Recommended Procedure:
Connect the NGS Tester to the data link connector (DLC) under the dash. Turn off accessories. If vehicle is equipped with an auxiliary powertrain control (rpm control), it must be turned off to perform self tests.
Perform the necessary vehicle preparation and visual inspection. Refer to Quick Test Operation .
SELECT CORRECT VEHICLE, YEAR and MODEL.
Select DIAGNOSTIC DATA LINK.
Select PCM — POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE.
Select DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE.
Select KOEO ON-DEMAND SELF TEST.
Turn key on.
Follow operating instructions from the menu.
Record DTCs and follow appropriate pinpoint test.
After test, cycle key to off before running other tests or driving vehicle.
Note: If performing repeated self tests, it may be necessary to unplug glow plug relay to keep battery from going dead. Ignore glow plug codes while glow plug relay is unplugged.
Possible Causes:
The most likely PCM detectable faults that will cause a no start or hard start condition are:
CMP sensor inactive faults.
IPR output circuit check fault.
FDCS, CID and IDM ENABLE circuit faults.
Tools Required:
New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent
7. Retrieve/Clear Continuous DTCs
Purpose:
To determine if the PCM has detected any historical or intermittent fault conditions that would cause a hard start/no start symptom. The condition that caused a continuous DTC may no longer exist.
Note: The IDM stores both historical and hard IDM fault codes. To retrieve IDM fault codes, you must run KOEO On-Demand Self Test or KOEO Injector Electrical Test. To ensure that the DTC is a hard fault, you must first clear Continuous DTCs (be sure to record all DTCs before clearing) even though IDM codes do not show up on the Continuous display. Rerun KOEO On-Demand Self Test if an IDM DTC is set. This is a
hard fault.
Recommended Procedure:
Connect the NGS Tester to the DLC under the dash. Turn off accessories. If vehicle is equipped with an auxiliary powertrain control (rpm control), it must be turned off to perform self tests.
Perform the necessary vehicle preparation and visual inspection. Refer to Quick Test Operation .
SELECT CORRECT VEHICLE, YEAR and MODEL.
Select DIAGNOSTIC DATA LINK.
Select PCM — POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE.
Select DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE.
Select RETRIEVE/CLEAR CONTINUOUS DTCs
Turn key on.
Follow operating instructions from the menu.
Record DTCs and follow appropriate pinpoint test for continuous code diagnostics.
Continuous DTCs must be cleared after repair is made.
If performing repeated self tests, it may be necessary to unplug glow plug relay to keep battery from going dead. Ignore any glow plug codes while glow plug relay is unplugged.
Tools Required:
New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent
8. KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test
Note: If unable to perform KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test, disconnect IDM connector and check injector high and low side for shorts or opens.
Purpose:
To determine if the injector solenoids and valves are operating by buzzing all injectors together and then each injector in numerical sequence (1 through 8). 7.3L DI Engine, Cylinder and Fuel Injector Location
Recommended Procedure:
Note: If no DTCs are present and the KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test aborts while trying to perform, GO to Pinpoint Test NA , Step NA29.
Note: This test determines if the injector circuits and solenoids are electrically operating without fault. All injectors will first buzz together for approximately 2 seconds, then each injector will buzz for approximately 1 second in numerical order (1 through 8). The IDM stores all historical IDM fault codes; to ensure that the DTC is a hard fault, you must first clear continuous DTCs (be sure to record all IDM fault codes before clearing). After clearing, rerun self test; a fault must be present at the time of testing for the KOEO Injector Electrical Self Test to detect the fault. If a fault is detected, a DTC will be output on the data link at the end of the test when requested by a scan tool. Only a hard fault code (DTC) will be displayed.
Connect the NGS Tester to the DLC under the dash. Turn off accessories. If vehicle is equipped with an auxiliary powertrain control (rpm control), it must be turned off to perform self tests.
Perform the necessary vehicle preparation and visual inspection. Refer to Quick Test Operation .
SELECT CORRECT VEHICLE, YEAR and MODEL.
Select DIAGNOSTIC DATA LINK.
Select PCM — POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE.
Select DIAGNOSTIC TEST MODE.
Select KOEO INJECTOR ELECTRICAL SELF TEST.
Follow operating instructions from the menu.
Record DTCs and follow appropriate pinpoint test.
After test, cycle key to off before running other tests or driving vehicle.
Possible Causes:
Open or shorted injector circuits
Bad injector connector
Open or shorted CID or FDCS circuits
Open injector solenoid
IDM powering or ground circuits
Defective IDM
Tools Required:
New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent

Continued next post

 

9a. Check VPWR During Cranking
Purpose:
To verify PCM power-up during cranking. Lack of power to PCM can cause a no-start condition as well as fault code loss.
Recommended Procedure:
Install NGS Tester. Access VPWR PID on NGS Tester and monitor while cranking the engine.
Possible Causes:
Low battery voltage
Charging system problem
Power circuit and ground faults to the PCM
GO to Pinpoint Test A to diagnose a voltage concern.
Note: Battery voltage below 9.5 volts can cause the NGS Tester to reset. If the NGS Tester resets during a self test or while PID monitoring, it may be necessary to install a battery charger to maintain the correct voltage.
Tools Required:
New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent
9b. Check RPM Signal While Cranking
Purpose:
To determine if the CMP sensor and circuit are functioning.
Recommended Procedure:
Possible Causes:
Weak battery or starter
Faulty wire harness connection
Poor CMP ground connection
Incorrect CMP sensor to target wheel spacing
Defective CMP sensor
GO to Pinpoint Test DF for CMP sensor diagnosis.
Tools Required:
New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent
9c. Monitor ICP While Cranking
Purpose:
To determine if the injection control system can supply enough injection control pressure to sustain starting.
15 of 26
Recommended Procedure:
Install NGS Tester. Access ICP and IPR PIDs on NGS Tester, and monitor PID readings while cranking the engine.
Note: CMP signal is required before IPR is commanded above 14%.
If ICP does not meet the minimum specification of 3450 kPa (500 psi), the injectors will not be enabled by the PCM because of insufficient rail pressure.
If IPR goes above 14%, ICP pressure should easily go above 3450 kPa (500 psi) provided that the oil reservoir is full, the IPR valve is not stuck open, the high pressure pump is building pressure and there is not an injection control pressure leak between the high pressure pump and all of the injectors.
Possible Causes:
Injection control pressure system leak
Oil reservoir level low
IPR failure
Faulty high pressure pump
Injector O-ring leaking
Injection Control Pressure Leak Test
Removing the ICP sensor and inspecting the level in the oil rail will determine if oil is being supplied to the rail. Removing the inspection plug in the top of the reservoir will help determine if the reservoir is full. A reservoir that drains back after the engine has not been operated for a long period of time can cause a hard start condition. If reservoir empties after filling, verify it is being supplied oil from the low pressure oiling system.
Purpose:
Isolate the cause of low injection control pressure.
Recommended Procedure:
Right Cylinder Head Check
Remove the high pressure hose from the right cylinder head using Quick Disconnect Tool 303-625, and cover the fitting on the cylinder head with the appropriate cap from the Fuel/Oil/Turbo Protector Cap Set T94T-9395-AH. Install the plug from the Oil High Pressure Leakage Test Adapter Set 303-S626 into the high pressure hose to block it off. Crank the engine and monitor the ICP PID. If the ICP Adapter Cable D94T-50-
A is connected to the ICP sensor, connect a digital multimeter between signal return and ICP signal wires on the adapter cable. Crank the engine and monitor the signal. The digital multimeter should read 1 to 4 volts.
CAUTION: The engine may start!
If the engine starts or if injection control pressure is now within specification, the injection control pressure leak has been isolated to the right cylinder head. Inspect the fuel to see if oil is in the fuel. If no oil is present in the fuel, remove the valve cover, crank the engine and inspect the injector body and injector bore area for leakage.
CAUTION: Oil is under high pressure!
Left Cylinder Head Check
Remove the cap and plug, then reinstall the high pressure hose to the right cylinder head. Remove the high pressure hose from the left cylinder head using Quick Disconnect Tool 303-625, and cover the fitting on the cylinder head with the appropriate cap from the Fuel/Oil/Turbo Protector Cap Set T94T-9395-AH. Install the ICP adapter from the Oil High Pressure Leakage Test Adapter Set 303-S626 into the high pressure hose.
Remove the ICP sensor and install the sensor in the end of the ICP adapter. Connect the ICP/EBP Adapter Cable D94T-50-A to the ICP sensor. Connect a digital multimeter between the signal return and ICP signal wires of the adapter cable. Crank the engine and monitor the signal. The digital multimeter should read 1 to 4 volts.
CAUTION: The engine may start!
If the engine starts or if injection control pressure is now within specification, the injection control pressure leak has been isolated to the left cylinder head.
IPR and High-Pressure Pump Test
If injection control pressure is still low after ruling out both cylinder heads as the source of injection control pressure leakage, perform the following steps to isolate the cause. Leave the ICP sensor and ICP adapter connected to the left high-pressure hose. Remove the high-pressure hose from the right cylinder head and cover the fitting on the cylinder head with the appropriate cap from the Fuel/Oil/Turbo Protector Cap Set T94T-9395-AH. Install the plug from the Oil High Pressure Leakage Test Adapter Set 303-S626 into the
high-pressure hose to block it off. With the high-pressure pump effectively deadheaded, crank the engine and monitor the signal. If injection control pressure is not within specification, replace the Injection Pressure Regulator (IPR) with a known good IPR and retest. If a low pressure condition still exists, the problem is most likely with the high-pressure pump or the high-pressure pump drive gear.
Tools Required:
Fuel/Oil/Turbo Protector Cap Set 303-493 (T94T-9395-AH)
ICP/EBP Adapter Cable 418-D003 (D94T-50-A) or equivalent
Oil High Pressure Leakage Test Adapter Set 303-S626 (D94T-6600-A) or equivalent
23 Multimeter 105-00050 or equivalent
1/4-inch drive ratchet or breaker bar to remove inspection plug
Quick Disconnect Tool 303-625
9d. Check Fuel Pulse Width (FUEL PW) While Cranking
Purpose:
To verify that the Fuel Delivery Command Signal (FDCS) system is functioning correctly.
Recommended Procedure:
Install NGS Tester. Access FUEL PW PID on NGS Tester and monitor while cranking engine. No fuel command signal when ICP, RPM and VPWR signals are correct usually indicates a loss of CMP sync signal. GO to Pinpoint Test DF for CMP sensor diagnosis.
A 1-6 mS fuel pulse width (FUEL PW) will be sent by the PCM to the IDM if system voltage does not go below 7 volts during cranking, engine cranking speed is above 100 rpm and injection control pressure is above 3450 kPa (500 psi). Even though a 1-6 mS fuel pulse width is shown on the NGS to be sent to the IDM, it is possible the IDM did not get the signal, due to a fault on either the CID or FDCS circuits or even the IDM. Note that low fuel pressure or no glow plugs could still be the cause of the No Start or Hard Start condition. A 0.60-ms fuel pulse width (a no fueling pulse) will be sent by the PCM when a sync pulse has not been received from the CMP sensor and if insufficient injection control pressure is present. This 0.60-ms fuel pulse width will not allow injectors to be enabled, but does keep the IDM and PCM synchronized until sufficient injection control pressure is realized.
Possible Causes:
FDCS and CID circuitry
PCM
IDM
Tools Required:
New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent
10. Glow Plug System Operation
Purpose:
To determine if the glow plug system operation is sufficient to permit starting.
Recommended Procedure:
Relay Operation
Install a digital multimeter on the glow plug feed side of the glow plug relay (large stud with two wires connected). Turn the ignition key to the ON position but do not attempt to start. Note the time in seconds from when the key is turned on and the glow plug relay energizes until the glow plug relay de-energizes. The relay does not come on if EOT is above 55°C (131°F) for F-Series and 30°C (86 °F) for Econoline. The glow plug relay makes a loud click noise which is easily heard when it energizes and de-energizes. Compare the times measured to the table (time will be affected by engine temperature, battery condition and vehicle altitude). The voltage at the glow plug feed terminal may vary from 9 to 12 volts depending upon battery condition. If battery voltage is not present, check for B+ at the power supply terminal (terminal with single large wire).
Power for glow plug power supply is supplied from the starter relay through two fusible links at solenoid. Disconnect all of the glow plug/injector harness connectors from the valve cover gaskets. With the Rotunda Glow Plug Injector Adapter 134-00132 or equivalent installed, measure glow plug resistance to ground (preferably B-). A resistance measurement of 0.1-2 ohms indicates a good glow plug.
Glow Plug Harness Continuity
Measure for continuity from the connector harness to the glow plug feed terminal on the glow plug relay. Resistance should be less than 0.1-1 ohm.
California Only
For California only, the glow plug system monitor will start when the glow plugs are commanded on for over 30 seconds and the battery voltage is between 11.5-14 volts. A glow plug code will be stored in continuous memory if one or more glow plugs are not being powered.
Note: Look very carefully for poor connections, burnt looking or loose fitting pins that will cause high resistance and set a code.
The Glow Plug Monitor Self Test (California only) is a functional test of the glow plug system performed on demand with the engine running and the A/C off. The PCM will activate the glow plug relay and monitor the glow plug circuits. A fault must be present at the time of testing for the test to detect a fault. If one bank is reading less than 39 amps, a fault will be detected and a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will be output on the scan tool. If a fault code is set, it is a hard fault.
California or 49-State
The glow plug on time is dependent on oil temperature and altitude. The glow plug relay comes on between 1-120 seconds and does not come on at all if oil temperature is above 30°C (86°F) for Econoline or 55 °C (131 °F) for F-Series. By using the NGS you can run the Output State Self Test which will cycle the glow plug relay on for 5 seconds the first time only that the accelerator pedal is pressed. This self test does not set any codes.
You can verify glow plug on time (and amps for California) by monitoring NGS PIDS: EOT, GPCTM (California GPMR and GPML). The wait to start lamp ON time (1-10 seconds) is independent from glow plug relay ON time. Incorrect measurements will result if all glow plug/injector connectors to valve cover are not disconnected.
Possible Causes:
Insufficient glow plug ON time will not allow enough heat to accumulate in the combustion chamber to easily facilitate starting. If the glow plug system ON time does not meet any of the specifications in the accompanying chart the problem is most likely a faulty wire harness connection, ground connections or glow plug relay.
Note: Look very carefully for poor connections, burnt looking or loose fitting pins that will cause high resistance.
Glow plug relay.
Powering circuit to glow plug relay (fusible links from starter relay).
Glow plug relay to valve cover connector circuits.
Valve cover gasket.
Under valve cover (UVC) harness.
Glow plugs.
Tools Required:
l Multimeter 105-00050 or equivalent
l Glow Plug Injection Adapter 134-00132 or equivalent
l New Generation Star (NGS) Tester 007-00500 or equivalent

 

Thanks Kirk!

I 've got some work to do. I'll check a few that I have not done yet at post back.

 

I ways hoping not. PCM isn't to bad but I really would rather that is not the IDM, just because of cost. I know mileage is not always a good gauge of the longevity of a party, but I had kind of ruled these out since I only have 85K miles on the truck. Still a possibility though.

Thanks!

 

Subscribing.

 

subscribing

 

Here is an update to some of the things Kirk posted. I haven't checked all of them because the truck is at home and I am at work. Maybe this info will give some insight to the possible issues.

1) Visual inspection: Eveything looks good. Not leaks in common area. Only leak is the power steering from towing it. All other possible locations are dry. I did notice that the coolant resivoir is lower than normal! I have had a leak from as a result of my cold air mod, but it has never been this low. I'm guessing about 2 inches below min mark

2) Oil was a bit low, it has been lower and still started. To be safe I added 2 qts of oil last night, stil no start. This morning I checked the dip stick in the day light and it looked a bit off. It does not look milky white, but there is visible seperation of liquid. Could not tell if it was fresh oil mixed with older oil, or if it was coolant. couldn't detect a smell, it was windy this morning. I am hoping that it isn't, or include, a blown head gasket.

3)Intake and Exhaust visual inspection is good.

4) Fuel is clean and fresh. Full tank of gas less than 50 miles ago. Hasn't been cold enough to gell.

5) Fuel pump is cycling. Fuel is in the bowl. Don't have the tools to check pressure.

6)KOEO was preformed using a Super Tuner. Only code that cam up was P0603, Interanl Control Module Keep Alive Memory Error

7)P0603 code has been cleared.

8)Injector Test can't be done with the equipement I have. Should have sprung for the AE before the DP

9a) VPWR ??? Guessing that I need the AE

9b)RMP singal is apparent while starting. The needle move up slightly, no bouncing and holds steady while cranking

9c) ICP while cranking can't be check. I really need that AE!

10) GPR is working, the GPR led mod I did is showing a signal from the GPR.

I will check on more things when I get home tonight.

 

I know they are expensive, that's for sure but if you go to a local junk yard or order one online you should be able to pick one up for between 250 and about 350 vs Ford stealership for 750

 

Theirs really only one thing left to do before you start sinking money on things that aren't going to work!I think you need to remove your IPR valve and clean it then go from there!

 

Junk yard is a good idea, if I need to go that route.

I picked up a CPS today and going to give that a try. Sounds like even after the recall replacement CPS, these things can still cause issues. If that won't to it next shot is the IPR.

Thanks for all the ideas!

 

New CPS is in, still no start.

I think I have ruled out a blown head gasket that I feared this morning. No coolant smell from the dip stick and it looks like there is a coolant leak around the water pump.

I guess I am down to the computer or the IPR.