went with the 94 one i will update every one when i get it
help with u haul ip's
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
Likes: 1
From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
like a fat kid in a candy store i was all over it!! hahaha. i absolutely rushed it, totally hilarious in that i just hooked everything up, let it sit for the GP warm time and went after it....der!! haha. Im learnin!! lmfao
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 20,359
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From: Mi'kma'ki
i had a feeling.
id be pretty exited too lol.
well,i may not see as much a drastic change as you guys lately with new ips.my truck sure likes the 2.5 more degree's advance.
we're gunna be breaking our own fuel economy records here shortly im thinking.
well,once we get used to the added power and keep our foots out of 'em lol.
id be pretty exited too lol.
well,i may not see as much a drastic change as you guys lately with new ips.my truck sure likes the 2.5 more degree's advance.
we're gunna be breaking our own fuel economy records here shortly im thinking.
well,once we get used to the added power and keep our foots out of 'em lol.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
What fuel economy? What added power? Round here if I go much faster than 25 the truck will either shake itself into pieces, or slide right out a corner and into a ditch. Speed limit is 45 by the way, and some people actually keep up with it, not quite sure how they get traction on that loose dirt and gravel that is considered roads, lol. But methinks I actually found a reason/opportunity to take the stupid thing out for a drive soon, at least for a few hours - she needs headlight bulbs (well one, but I replace them as sets), and I need a new X-box controller - so AutoZone first, then Best Buy, or the other way around, lol.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Hagerstown, Md
same here egts didnt change and it didnt spool any faster, no added smoke either... but then again the pump was probably on its way out so that could be why
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
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Those of you folks with the '94 E350 pump, does it come with a bracket for the TPS? Just curious, cause my '89-'90 pump was set up for a VRV (cause those U-haul trucks hadC6 transmissions), and I had to remove the VRV drive pin and install the TPS duckbill and bracket from my old pump in its place.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 131
Likes: 0
i just got my new ip today looks great 
packaged nice in a sealed bag i was wondering if it is OK to turn the fuel up with the pump off the truck and any tips to help the install go smooth would be great
packaged nice in a sealed bag i was wondering if it is OK to turn the fuel up with the pump off the truck and any tips to help the install go smooth would be great
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Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Hagerstown, Md
if the torque screw is really as good as you say it is i might order another pump from them this time order the E350 for the 94 trucks and just keep this one as back up
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
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About the install, well removing the top mounting stud for the pump from the gear hosing will make yanking the old pump out together with its lines a whole lot easier. Then I swapped the lines from the old pump to the new one while both were off the truck, cause the nuts on the lower lines are a bear to tighten down if pump is on the engine already. Move whatever accessories your old pump has (TPS/VRV, inlet line fitting, outlet line fitting) on the new pump at the same time too. Do not install the fast-idle solenoid before the pump is in tho, cause that will limit access to the stud on that side big time. You got a special wrench for the nuts on the pump mounting screws? Take a 9/16 Craftsman wrench and chop the open end off and sand the edges smooth, then on the boxed end grind it down so it's only about half as thick as it was before - tis what I did, and it works great on all three locations on the pump.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4,086
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From: Malahat/Cowichan Valley
fuel screw adjustment can be done right fron the rebuilder but i would think it better to run the truck first rather than overfuel from the get go.
As for the wrench, exactly what i did but i didnt chop off the end, just bent the boxed end at a small angle to ensure fitment.
As for the wrench, exactly what i did but i didnt chop off the end, just bent the boxed end at a small angle to ensure fitment.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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I cut the end off to get rid of its prongs that were getting hooked on the #1 injector return line and the cold-start circuits harness. Now I still got the leverage of a long wrench, but the smooth handle don't catch and hang up on stuff.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Clarksburg WV
I bought a small lot of 6.9/7.3 Rotunda tools off ebay a couple months back...one of the things in there was an injector line wrench and I will definitely get my use out of that thing doing this job!
I just need to rig up a wrench so I can get off the bolts holding the IP on....
I just need to rig up a wrench so I can get off the bolts holding the IP on....
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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That's just what the cut and trimmed 9/16" wrench me and Wreck mentioned is for - the three 9/16" nuts that hold the IP to the housing. And they are actually nuts on studs, and not just bolts - you can remove the nuts and the studs should stay in the housing, you actually don't have to pull those off if you pull lines from the pump first, at least one particular line (don't recall which one exactly, but you'll know it right away when it hits the intake manifold neck while you try to yank the pump and lines as one). When I swapped my pump I removed the nuts first, then pulled the top stud only, as that allowed for just enough clearance to lift the head of the pump's input shaft straight up once it was out of the gear housing - if the stud was left in place I'd have to pull the pump and lines like an inch further back, which didn't wanna happen cause that one injector line I mentioned interfered with the intake.
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