I have a 1993 f350 idi non turbo
U guys gave me some great advice on my last post and directed me to get a new ip which i agreed with. After installing the new ip the engine sounds extremely quite and flat. it is also pouring out tons of white/greyish smoke. I realized that I the markings on my pump and the housing are off about 1/2 in. I assume that my timming is off because of that and it needs to be adjusted.

My 1st question is - Am I correct in assuming that. Are those the symptoms that I would expect to have if the timming is off or did I screw something else up?

And 2 - When I removed the old pump, I removed it with the housing attatched because the housing needed to be replaced. But to shift the pump it looks like all I have to do is lossen the 3 bolts that mount the Ip to the housing. My question is How on earth do you get to the bolts stationed at 3 o'clock and 9o'clock.

Any help would be much appreciated

 

If you removed the pump with the housing attached, then you also unmeshed the gears that drive the IP and now most likely the timing is off in the gears. Since the truck runs, its most likely only a tooth or two off.

The marks on the housing and IP should be lined up when you replace the IP. Get those lined up and see how she runs then. To get to the 2 of the bolts that hold the IP, I had to cut and bend a wrench so that the head would have a better angle of attack.

Others will chime in with more info on your timing issue.

 

YOur timing is retarded, to advance it turn the top of the pump to the pass side of the truck. im assuming you DID line your timing marks up again when you put the housing on. When i rattles like a powerstroke when cold with the advance arm working and it quiets down when warm you got it.

 

yikes, removed the housing with the hear attached, hopefully you got really lucky with the replacement. Why did the housing need to be replaced? For future reference, you can remove the IP, then the housing, leaving the gear in place and correctly timed on the crank/cam etc. the timing marks can be easily realigned by marking it with a screw driver once it is properly timed with equipment.

 

The 2 bolts on the front side of the housing that where the pulley was mounted were some how striped so I just ended up replacing the housing. Didn't now about the gear having to be aligned for timing. Is there away to somehow properly realign the gear

 

you mean the inspection cover bolts were stripped? someone would really have to crank on those to strip them. Either way, yes there is a way to do it and unless you get lucky, it involves tearing down the whole front end. There are a few posts on how people did it so hopefully they will post up or someone remembers it, i cant find them,

 

ok... Hope someone does....thanks

 

Dude...

Woopsie, the IP gear and the crank gear have marks which need to be aligned for proper timing. I had this same problem. I bought a complete motor without a pump, gear or housing and discovered a way to align them without removing your front cover. Here is a quote from a post I wrote when I did it. I will elaborate on it.

"thank you to all the help on this issue in my last post. It turns out the butter knife is the answer... sort of! After I tried to use the butter knife to "SEE" the mark and went "yeah right" I put my tired brain to work and thought...remember the old playdough and newspaper trick. Hummmm here is the answer. Set your Harmonic balancer mark to zero. Take a piece of plumbers putty (that is what I had. I supose any clay type medium will work, but it worked perfectly!) flaten it out to aproximately 1" x3" x 1/8" thick. Spray it with wd40 on both sides and get yourself a 1" putty knife (the perverbial butter knife). There is a small notch in the top of the front cover. Using this as a guide slide both the plumbers putty and putty knife down in front of the camshaft gear and press the putty to the gear with the knife remove it cleanly (the wd40 is the key here) you WILL get a clear imprint of the mark on the gear. If the mark is a O turn the harmonic balancer over one complete revolution and repeat the process to Identify a Y mark and you are ready to go! TDC of the compression stroke. Using care you can properly align the Y mark on your IP gear and the camshaft gear without further disassembly."

So here is an update.

After doing what I described above and just basically guessing where to set the timing gear with the housing and pump on, I decided I wanted more verification of proper alignment so here is what I did, and what you NEED to do if you want peace of mind that they are aligned right. Disassemble your pump, gear and housing into three seperate pieces. Do as described above to find the "Y" mark on your crank gear. It is fairly easy. Now find the mark on your pump gear (a visible Y on the face of the gear near the teeth), and for easier identification, file a small notch DIRECTLY above the stamped mark (the stamped mark doesnt show up as well as the one on the crank gear so look for the file mark instead) set the pump gear on the crank gear where you think the two marks will align. Now do the putty knife trick again with both gears in place. You may need to physically push the pump gear towards the putty to get a good mark as it is loose) If the mark you filed aligns with the Y on the crank gear you are good to go. If it doesn't move the pump gear one tooth at a time until they do. Once you have verified their alignment be prepared to immediately install your gear housing. Once the housing is in place and bolted the pump gear will not lift up enough to disengage from the crank gear. You can now install your pump onto the gear. There were a number of doubters as to whether this actually works, but I got a clear as day impression of both marks, and am certain it does. It is accurate and much easier than pulling your water pump and front cover to visually align the marks.

Best of luck! Remember, none of us knows more than all of us! You can PM me with any questions, and in the future you will know not to remove your pump housing ever again unless you are breaking down the whole motor!
If you want to see the entire original post do a search for "I'm a diesel newbie! Any gurus' out there who can help?" and you should be able to find it.

Macgyver.

 

Thanks Macgyver....
That sounds simple enough to try. I think you may have helped me get out of my depression. This certainly makes the top 5 list of the stupidest things i'v ever done.

Do you have any suggestions on the easiest way to install those 2 bolts on the side of the ip after the housing is already installed

 

They are supposed to be studs with nuts. If they are bolts get some short 3/8' studs and a little blue thread locker should do you just fine.

 

84,
I have taken apart a lot of the IP gear housings and never have i seen studs, is that an older 6.9 style filler neck thing maybe?

 

Mike Take Some Pictures

 

Sorry... Ur right I meant to say nuts.
The housing has 3 studs that the ip bolts on too using a washer and 14mm nuts
1 at 12, 1 at 3 and 1 at 9 o'clock
The 2 on the sides are the ones that are very difficult to get to.
I was wondering if there was a special wrench or something I can get

 

Sorry... Ur right I meant to say nuts.
The housing has 3 studs that the ip bolts on too using a washer and 14mm nuts
1 at 12, 1 at 3 and 1 at 9 o'clock
The 2 on the sides are the ones that are very difficult to get to.
I was wondering if there was a special wrench or something I can get

 

Mike, you will read a lot of posts of how guys have cut, ground down, welded or somehow customized a wrench to fit on them. I think I ground down an open end wrench and went a little at a time. its a bitch but its do-able.