Hi Guys, brand new to this site and just want to say hey. I do have a problem with my 90 Bronco. I lost two wheel and four wheel high drive. When I put it park it just rolls away. I can select low range four wheel then the truck works fine. I do think something inside the transfer case is broke. I was looking for some info on where to go for a used trans case. I have checked all over Milwaukee and all they will do is rebuild it for $1200.00. I just use it to plow snow and thats more then the truck is worth. I do need to go a little faster on the road. Maybe some help on how big of a job is it to take it apart and replace what's broke.

 

Welcome to FTE and the Big BRonco Forum. We will do our best to get you the most accurate info we can.

1990 should have a Borg-Warner 1356 transfer case in it. Sounds like the rear output shaft has failed which would be a rare thing indeed. Are you sure its the t-case and not the rear differential that has failed? Putting the truck in 4WD will allow it to behave "normally" but you are technically driving a FRONT-wheel-drive truck. You won't hurt the front driveline this way if you don't drive too hard. (The BW1356 is chain-driven and with no drive to the rear axle all the stress of moving the truck is put on the chain).

Rebuilding a t-case isn't difficult you just have to get the right parts and take your time to do it right. However, the 1356 t-case is about as commonplace as the F-150. You could pick up a salvage unit fairly inexpensively. Just make certain you don't get one older than 1987. The output shaft diameter changed and the older unit's output shaft will be too small.

I would still recommend making certain that the problem is indeed the t-case and not the rear differential. The pinion nut and bearings tend to be an issue on the older 8.8 Ford axles especially if you don't keep an eye on them for torque spec and leaks.

 

If you put it in 4 low and the truck still rolls then it should rule out the rear diff as the front wheels are locked in to the trans to hold it like the rear normally would. That should help identify it a bit more I think.

 

I think it's the shift fork. The insert probubly wore out and then started waring the metal. There are two shift forks in there. One for 2hi-4hi-Newtral and the other for 4low-Newtral. Your first one is shot, so your always in newtral on that fork.

 

Thanks for the info. That does make sence that it could be the rear end. Just trying to figure out how to make sureit is the rear end and not the transfer case. Just wondering if you have a easy way to determin which one it is. Thanks agian

 

Mornin' Sunnfish. I just happen to have a Borg-Warner 1356 laying here. It was behind a C6 tranny, which I also have, and both were mated to a 4.9 liter inline 6 in a 1987 Bronco. It's in good shape and worked when it was removed. I'll never use it.

If you're intersted just give me a call. 814/881-8405.

Jim

 

I second the worn out shift fork. They have plastic inserts that wear out. My grandfather just fixed a t-case in a 1991 F-150. Pretty easy. Can still get parts from Ford.

 

Raise one of the rear wheels off the ground with a jack and chock the other. Put the truck in neutral and rotate the wheel that is off the ground. If the differential is working the driveshaft will spin along with the wheel. If not, the differential is shot. If is does spin with the wheel rotation, then your initial fear will be confirmed.

Ah, but he stated that the truck works fine in 4LO. Although not working in 4HI is telltale towards t-case having lost the 1:1 drive gearing.

 

Definately the T-case!! I had this happen to me recently. When I opened the gearbox I found a mangled oil pump and a busted shift fork. These 1356 boxes are very common as is the problem with the oilers. My sugestion, find another t-case and have a trans shop install the $60 aftermarket upgrade for the oiler.

 

I was doing a little t-case research myself the other day and there is an upgrade you can to in the area of the shift fork. Not the fork itself but a guide plate that wears down over time. Ford/Borg-Warner evidently changed this in very late model 1356's but there is a way to rectify the problem with an older casing as well. I'll see if I can hunt down the article.

 

I was just wondering if you found the artical on transfer case up date. Do you know of any on line sites that have transfer case scamatics. i have never opened one and don't know what i'm going to find. I hate it when you open something and needle bearings fall out. I know now its not the rear end. I did some snow plowing and in low range the rear wheels spin when you get stuck.

Thanks for your help.

 

They are easy to work on. Just clear your bench and lay the parts out as they come off, in order and in the same orientation. Start at the rear output, then the torx scews. You'll need a good pair of snapring pliers. Take lots of pictures if you think you need help remembering how it came apart. Gotta love digital cameras
I had mine removed, apart, fixed and reinstalled in less then 4 hrs. Good luck

 

Also, if you decide to tackle the repairs yourself, the case may need to be fixed where the oiler wears on it and clean everything thoroghly. There is going to be lots of tiny pieces inside it, and billions of small aluminum particles, will make fluid shiny/glittery looking. Transmission shop, or Ford dealer will be able to get parts.