I have an 88 FSB. The drivers side power window works fine. My problem is, when it hits the upper limmit(top of the window seal/door frame) the motor runs a bil longer and extends the inner door shell outward. This flexes the door panel pretty good, so I was looking for information on a possible fix. Is there an upper stop adjustment on the regulator?? Should I install a brace inside the door frame?
I searched and searched, but no luck.
Thanks in advance for your help.

 

I see the same effect in my 1994 if I stay on the up switch too long. There is no upper mechanical stop, other than the glass top edge being rammed up into the top channel. So the reaction force between the top edge of the door and the motor mount tends to "straighten out" the door, before the force becomes large enough to stall the motor.

So, I only stay on the switch till the top edge of the window goes into the top channel and stops. I don't need to look at it while doing it, can tell just by the sound that it is up. Laying on the switch any more than that, like until the motor stalls, flexes the upper steel structure of the door. I think it is just the design.

Off topic... I saw your location. Made me smile. Way back in Fall of '85, I flew my family out to GSP airport, visited relatives in SC and toured the mountain area of SC & NC including the BR parkway (Parkway during the week, so we didn't have to stare at the backs of RV's for hours on end). At the GSP airport, they ran low on rental cars and gave us a free upgrade to a 1984 Lincoln Town Car, at least Signature series, had the most beautiful two-tone paint job I ever saw. I never saw another one like it.

That car would have stood out anywhere, it was like we were some rich foreign potentates on tour. Everywhere we went, people would turn and look.

So here we were, one afternoon, rolling into S-P NC driving this rich potentate car. Pulled into a grocery store parking lot on the side of the store, I'm sure it was the only grocery store there then. We parked it further back, hoping that people in the store didn't see it, as we were getting a bit tired of everybody looking at us wherever we stopped. We went in, and bought some... snacks! And wouldn't you know it, the smallest bill I had on me right then was a $50 (remember this was back in '85).

Oh boy, did we ever feel self-conscious!

So, just in case a story is being passed down from generation to generation in Spruce Pine about some "rich people" in a fancy car who stopped by the little town one day and bought snacks... well, them was us

 

Torky. Thanks for the reply and the charming story. My family is from S.pine and I live here now carrying on a family business in furniture manufacturing. Much has changed in our area, and much has not. (good and bad). I would welcome you and your's anytime to our area.
What I did. I removed the door panel and the armrest bracket. I fabricated a solid piece of aluminum that is thin to go behind the armrest bracket and reaches from the top of the door frame to the lowest part just above the carpeted map pocket. I then bolted it to the door frame at the bottom, then bolted the armrest panel Through it and also into the door frame. Furthermore, I added extra bolts to the armrest bracket(2) to the aluminum brace. I finished up with all new door panel clips from my NAPA autoparts and reinstalled everything.
I would say this made a 95% inprovement. No rattles, minimal "flex" as witnessed above, and a tight fit everywhere. HUGE improvement. The flex had actually fractured my old door panel, and I wanted to find a remedy before I installed my "new-er" replacement. Eddie Bauer door panels are not cheap.
I think the problem propogated earlier in the BKO's life. The door was replaced. Paint work and fit were exceptional, however, I suspect it was a manual roll-up door. I don't know if this makes a differance, but lots of holes had to be drilled to fit the regulator and the map pocket. All seems fine at the moment, but I will keep looking for "reasons". I will be taking the passenger side apart for a go-thru and install new door speakers in the end.

 

My 1985 Eddie Bauer does the same on the driver's door. I did as you did. I put a thin metal brace under the door panel to help the flexing when the motor tops out. It helpes but I still have to stop the motor before it flexes too much.

 

I searched and searched for a forum/thread that addresses this but no luck. It seems I ran across something a while back, but could not find it. My fix was crude but effective(so far) I intend to do some fabricating for a dedicated brace. I suspect I will disassemble the doors altogether. "Tune up" the regulators and motors replace the lock actuators/switches, and all the weatherstripping. I am still looking for advice.

 

One thing I did notice, the motor in my driver's door is not original. I wonder if it is a little too strong?

 

good question. I'm sure mine has been replaced before.